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STUCK MOTOR

Most people have a mixture they like , how stuck = what is required to loosen. I use acetone and used motor oil, one clean and the other will lube,90/10-80/20 depending on my mood.
 
I have freed up 20 plus engines over the years. First thing to do is make sure they are not full of water because if they are unless you can get the water out it will NEVER free up. Once you know there is not water in the cylinders I fill them with ATF and if it has a vertical exhaust I pour as much ATF down it as I can. Always put the plugs back in to keep dirt etc out plus with the plugs in you fill any cylinder with the exhaust valve open fuller. Then just let it sit a week or so then set a 12 volt battery in it and pull the plugs and use short fast taps on the start to see if it if freeing up. Watch the crank shaft pulley for any movement
 
I'v was always told and saw it work several times and that is "Rifle Bore Cleaner" from your local Army Surplus Store.
I saw it work on parts over night!
If you try to pull a tractor to break loose a stuck engine, put the tractor with the stuck engine in the highest gear it has. It'll be easier to turn the engine over than if you put the tractor in its lowest gear. Because in low gear the gear leverage is against you when pulling tractor with stuck engine. If the engine was running it would have the gear leverage in its favor, that's why it can pull more in low gear.
Some people don't understand this. Best way to look at this is; With engine being the driving force low gear has all the leverage and torque thru the gears. When you're pulling the tractor to turn the engine over the wheels are the driving force so Hi-gear is direct thru the transmission so that's the best leverage thru the gear train. A gear is continuous lever on a shaft.
 
I freed up a vertical JD (420) with hot water. Head was off when I got it. I plumbed a pipe from the bottom of the block to an old 20 gal propane tank on it"s side on legs so I could put heat under it. Filled the block/tank with water and heated the tank til it boiled, let it cool and repeated. Then I drilled a bar with a couple holes that lined up with 2 headbolts across from each other, put pieces of steel under the bar on top of the up piston and tightened the bolts to push it down.
 
I normally have good results with an ATF/Acetone mix.
I've also used brake fluid with fairly good results.
For one engine I couldn't get to free up using ATF/Acetone,
brake fluid, etc, I bought a product called Engine Release.
[b:f4572f3ad3]See it here[/b:f4572f3ad3]
It is pricey but comes with a money back guarantee.
I can't say how good the guarantee is because it worked
for me after everything else I had tried had failed.
Maybe the other attempts loosened it up. I can't say.
Still using that tractor six years later. Doesn't smoke or burn oil.
That is the only time I've used the product but its an option.
 
According to a study by the US Gummit, the best penetrating oil by far was a 50/50 mix of Acetone and transmission fluid. Don't remember all the different penetrating oils they studied but most of the common brands were included.
 

How do you know it's stuck from just a little rust between the rings and bores? Vs a stuck valve train or broken parts?
All too often somebody keeps prying on a stuck engine until they bend or break a rod or a push rod. The engine still has to come apart and now in addition needs repair parts.
That machine was parked broken for a reason.
For the few bucks a gasket set costs. Taking the engine apart will inform you of what is in there . Instead of hoping you will win the lottery.
 
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