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Rear Tractor rim prep for painting

B

Big Al's Acres

Member
I have a question. I am putting new rear tires on a utility tractor that has had calcium chloride for ballast in the rear wheels. As it happens, I have had to do some weld repair to one rim as a result of the fluid leaking and rusting the inside of the rim. My question is what should I do to fully neutralize the Calcium chloride after sandblasting and before paint. I know what happens if I trust that sandblasting alone will take care of the problem....IT DOES NOT. The fluid soaks into the rim and sandblasting alone is not enough to stop further rusting and degeneration. What is my best option?
Al
 
(quoted from post at 12:01:01 01/05/16) I have a question. I am putting new rear tires on a utility tractor that has had calcium chloride for ballast in the rear wheels. As it happens, I have had to do some weld repair to one rim as a result of the fluid leaking and rusting the inside of the rim. My question is what should I do to fully neutralize the Calcium chloride after sandblasting and before paint. I know what happens if I trust that sandblasting alone will take care of the problem....IT DOES NOT. The fluid soaks into the rim and sandblasting alone is not enough to stop further rusting and degeneration. What is my best option?
Al
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Thoroughly wash the rim in a baking soda water solution a couple of times, let dry and then coat with JASCO prep and prime from lowes. This is basicly phospheric acid which will turn the rust to black oxide. Then paint the rim with Dupla color self etching primer in the rattle can (green cap). Found at most auto parts stores. The inside of the rim should now be good for a long time.
 
The best thing I've found is to take it to the car wash or the garden hose and spend about ten minutes on it and then rinse it
 
There is a commercial product available called CHLOR*RID. It is a concentrate that is mixed with water. We buy it in 5 gallon containers, which will do a lot. I'm not sure if it is available in a smaller size. Now that your rim is blasted clean, the rust will come back very fast where the chloride is present. You would apply the Chlor-Rid to those areas, let it dry, and blast it again. This is being used more and more on highway bridges contaminated with road salt. chlor-rid.com It is handled by some industrial paint stores around the country.
 
Looks like you're getting some good advice with some real antidotes. It's been several years since I had this challenge. The best luck I had then was my pressure washer. It heats the water to where it's almost steam. After all the repair and manual removal of rust, the pressure washer really seemed to get right into the pores and get the salt out. I could tell because whatever paint I put on after that, stayed.
 
Hum ? I never seemed to of had any problems with sandblasting and then just painting or priming and then painting ?
 
Years ago,I bought a pair of round spoke wheels for an un-styled John-Deere A and have had trouble with them. I cleaned, washed and blasted twice and even after powder coating, those wheels are failing again. I think I may use a couple of the hints shared here and also paint with POR-15 on the inside to neutralize any potential rust issues. No more fluid for this current utility tractor.
Al
 
If u can find used anti freeze, after rinsing wheel, it would be better than calcium ro refill with.
 
I would strongly consider the advice of RBMI. I was not a where of such a product , normally what I do is sandblast them several times and then let them rust up in between blasting's as many times as it takes to get all the chloride moisture out of the steel, and I generally do this during warmer months of the year .
 
Hi, I cleaned my rims very good then painted the inside and out with cold galvanizing paint. Then normal IHC paint. 6 years, no problem so far. Ed Will
 

You already got rid of the salt. Now just use the phosphoric acid wash to mke the residual rust inert. residual rust.
 
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