Identifying old farmall

KD3

New User
I admittedly know little about older
tractors and also grew up green. My wife and
I bought an old farm stead and everything
left behind. In one shed was a smaller
farmall tractor, it appears like it has ran
sometime in the last few years but won't
now. Engine still turns with the hand crank.
Would like to get it running but don't know
where to start, let alone model of tractor.
If anyone could give me some ideas I would
greatly appreciate it. Thanks
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Looks like a Farmall C to me. Got one just like that in the barn. (much rustier) Spent a number of years in FIL's setting in his barn. Brought it home, cleaned up electrical system, new battery, fueled it up, and it ran.
 
C or Super C. Serial number will help and some of the IH gurus can help you further. You might wanna post in the IH / Farmall section down below. Don't worry ... RED paint helps heal the ravages of GREEN paint!! lol! BTW ... Welcome!!
 
Dang, jumped right in and thought I had a first reply, but can't edit. It's the Super C, because it has live hydraulics and the "Touch Control" block just forward of the battery box. Nice, handy and easy to work on tractors with really good parts availability.
 
Just a little hint. You may want to get a couple of "pros" involved your first time around to make sure you don't bust something. Not that you couldn't get everything right the first time but it is nice to have a cheering section. Looks like a very nice toy to play with.
 
Farmall C ,look on tool box below seat on right side(sitting on tractor) for model/serial tag. looks like it should fire off with Fresh fuel and battery charged.
 
As others have said it is a Farmall C. Not a super C. The clutch and brake pedals are curved on the super C and it has a taller radiator. You tractor appears to be in great shape for a tractor made in the late 40s - early 50s. You will have a lot of fun with it.
 
A Farmall C for sure and not a Super C. Two obvious things spell the difference which are easily seen in the photos. First, the straight clutch pedal as on a Super C's it is curved and the fuel tank is down tight on the touch control unit where on a Super C there is approx. 2" space between them. If the front grille was shown the lowest bar would be wider then the others above it is another quick identifier not to mention the cast brake covers for the disk brakes. Just my 2 cents worth, Hal.
 
Sediment bowl was plugged, took it apart and cleaned it. Needs a battery, it's been yanked. What do I need for a battery? 6 volt I assume.
 
Sorry Paul as it appears we have the same message but didn't see your reply as we were both typing at the same time. Take care and hope you have a wonderful holiday season along with a very Merry Christmas, Happy New Year and the very best in 2016. If you are back up this way stop by as there are several new additions since your last visit in the way of buildings and red tractors, Hal.
 
(quoted from post at 09:11:05 12/17/15) Sediment bowl was plugged, took it apart and cleaned it. Needs a battery, it's been yanked. What do I need for a battery? 6 volt I assume.

If it's got the generator still on it yea 6 volt.

Rick
 
heres a picture of a farmall c i just resurrected for a buddy of mine. tractor had been sitting in a barn for 15 years or so,motor was loose.

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as you dont know the history on the tractor, proceed with a little caution so you dont make matters worse. what i did with this before attempting to start it, drain all the fuel out and flush the fuel tank. there is a small drain plug on the bottom of the carburetor, remove that and see what comes out, you may need to pull the carb and clean it up. next, drain the engine oil and look for water or antifreeze. add fresh oil and replace the filter. next pull the spark plugs and see what they look like, ie rust, water damage ect. fill and oil can with dextron transmission fluid and squirt 3-4 pumps in each cylinder. pull the valve cover and squirt trans fluid on valves and rocker arm shaft. let it soak for a day. then with the plugs out, hand crank the engine over and watch to see if all the valves open and close. if good, i see you have a distributor ignition, pull the distributor cap and dust cover and look at the points. you may need to clean them up with a little 400 grit sandpaper, contact cleaner, or rub a dollar bill thru the points when they are closed. then get the battery charged and try cranking it over to see if there is spark. if good, drop the air cleaner cup off, put some fresh fuel in it, put the trans in neutral and see if she starts. the clutch disk may be stuck to the flywheel, so be careful. also check the rear end for water by loosening the drain plugs and see if water comes out.
 
It certainly looks like an original 6 volt tractor with the generator still on the tractor. You could remove the voltage regulator as they are usually stamped on the back as to the voltage and grounding requirements required. It will be a positive ground electrical system if it is truly an original system so hook the positive or "+" terminal to ground and the "-" terminal to the starter and you should be good to go. You might be needing new battery cables as 6 volt batteries require larger cable size then usually found in auto type stores which cater to 12 volt systems. If making up new cables use 0 or 00 size cable with soldered terminals for improved battery performance. Your tractor looks like a very nice original barn find and if it has been setting a long time get what gas is still in the tank out and fill with fresh gas before trying to start. If it had been stored with little or no gas in the tank you might have to remove and clean the rust from the tank also. I have found a good radiator shop is your best bet for cleaning a fuel tank and sealing if required. You will quickly find that Farmall C to be one of your favorite tractors as it is one of the handiest small chore type tractors ever made. Good luck and looks like Santa found you before Christmas, Hal.
 
farmall model c,narrow front, the first tractor i drove,at about age 9, that was the mid 1960s today i wish i had one to keep, none out west here
 
It still has a generator on it so yes very likely to be 6 volts but to get it to run you can use a 12 volt battery if you have one on hand. Points are likely to need to be cleaned or replaced. So the first thing to do is get spark then make sure it has good gas flow form the drain plug on the carb and spin it over. It will run justfine on a 12 volt battery but you do not want to let ti do so long since with out a ballast resister the points will burn up fast but using a 12 volt battery is a good way to make sure it wil lrun then go buy the correct battery
 
First step - change the oil - should et the filter too, but if you're in a hurry just be sure you swap that out soon.

Check your radiator level - don't use plain water - this time of year you don't want to risk ice, it WILL crack your block. Check your hydrualic level - unlikely that it's dry, but you'll burn out your pump quickly if it is - so worth topping off.

Start with a fresh battery - watch out for voltage and polarity though!

You probably want a 6 volt - and positive ground. A local tractor supply should have the 6 volt battery. When you remove the old one, note which terminal goes where. Most likely positive ground, which really confuses a lot of people.

Shine up the points.

I'd rig up a little mini gas tank with a clear tube to the carb - the chances of your tank/gas line being crudded up is high, so just bypass it for now if you can do that easily.

Take off the air cleaner tube too - then you can spray a little starter fluid in - it's probably full of mice anyways.

I'd be surprised if it doesn't start right up. If it's not starting with starter fluid - I'd first check to be sure you're getting spark to all 4.

Assuming it fires - try to let it run, if it's dying - probably need to operate on the carb and clean it out good - easy task, just make sure youv'e got the gaskets as the old ones will rip apart.

Those engines are easy to get running. If you're struggling, come back here - somebody will quickly set you straight.

One thing to be very cautious of - there's a good chance your clutch is stuck to the flywheel (so when you press the clutch pedal, it does not disengage). Always start with the gear shift in neutral, never assume the clutch is working on an unknown tractor like that one.

If it starts - first thing to check is your kill switch. Make sure that works before tinkering any further.
 
If it has been setting I would loosen drain plug enough to see what if there is any anti freeze or water in bottom.
 
Change the oil,install a tuneup kit with new plugs.
Clean the fuel tank and new carb kit. I bet it will run.

It is six volts with positive ground.
 
It is a Farmall C not super C probably 1950 or so model Check the serial # on the seat mount right side with driver on the seat.Early ones had cut-out on top of gen yours has a reg that mounts on a bracket below the gen.
 
(quoted from post at 23:05:28 12/17/15) looks like a BN !

el6147 where do you get BN from? The BN had off set seating like the wide(standard)B or A. Or are you just trying to confuse the original poster even more.
 

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