Case 7000-8000 tractor transmisson

I have a question about the transmissions in 7000-8000 series tractors.

Can you make them hold 300 + horsepower (on a daily use, pulling basis). New clutches, higher hydraulic pressure...I know there is a regulator. Is the answer don't do it. I have been told that it is the same tranny in the newer magnum tractors just electronically controlled and they hold more hp. Where's the line. I need 300+ hp tractor and have a 7250. Im a diesel engine guy and know I can get the motor reliable there, but not sure if the tranny can handle it. I also have a couple 7130's. Again I can get the motor there but can the transmission handle it. I love my old magnums but I got to have more snot. REALLY don't want to buy new tractors.

Any reason not to go get a built from the bottom up 300 horsepower tractor that is used such as an articulated tractor? There are guys that have way more experience in that area (turning up an older Magnum) than the people I know but I was always told tractors are designed on average to have a 10-15 percent reserve in terms of turning up the power. You are talking about going way past the "safety" margin. You are not talking about having that 300 HP in case of a pinch but using it that way hour after hour. Day after day. In my amateur opinion I would go get something even if used and not as nice in terms of feature that is made to put that power out.

with that much hp would you run out of traction i.e. weight long before hp. and even if you could weight it up significantly I think you would wear that thing plum out in short order. jmho

It would be difficult to put that kind of power to the ground without great tires and extra weight. At 300 + HP you would indeed shorten the trans and final drive life.
How much is very hard to say.

We have a JD 4055 turning about 215hp on the dyno. Our engine life may be shortened to 4-5K hours but the rest of the drive train is holding up really well. Not all hp is
always asked to go to the drawbar. We ask ours to run higher hp PTO equipment, which it does really well. Traction is not always the only way to use high hp. We find it
really good to have high hp and wouldn't want 1 hp less.

A 4055 is built very heavy for the factory rating it has. The 7.6 litre engine (466) is very capable of putting out over 200 HP but I would say you have yours at the limit in terms of output. I think the PTO clutch on the 4055 at 1000 RPM PTO is sufficient even if it would not hold up as long if it were at the factory 105 HP. I think you would have quite a different story if you asked the transmission and differential to handle 200 HP day in and day out maxed out.

Did you modify the cooling system to keep it from overheating?

Yes the motor has or will have the necessary mods to make this work. Just so we are clear. I am only wanting to increase this tractor about 10-20 percent. I have weights...tires...gear to pull....even duals on the front. I had the tractor checked on the dyno two years ago during and injection pump repair. They said estimated 280-290hp at engine. 256 pto horsepower. Yes I know they are rated at 215hp new, they are almost always more than that IME. Maybe its their dyno. ( It has factory flow numbers in the pump, it does have a bigger turbo though, hx50 I believe, set at 35 psi, and the aneroid removed/ set to max) Now I'm only needing a little more as it is the same width bar it is just a heavier bar and dual tanks for nh3. It handles the old bar fine, might bog in terraces/hills and only likes 4-5 mph uphill and 7 mph downhill. I just know the new bar is going to pull a little harder and I would like to go a little faster. (high speed machine) Fan has been replaced with a solid six blade unit and new radiator. Right now it never even pretends to overheat unless I really work her hard on the hottest days. Even then maybe hit 210 once. I am honestly more concerned with egts if I increase hp more than engine heat, as it runs over 1000 now pretty regular.

The situation requires a row crop tractor. IF I got to buy a new one it would take a 8430 JD or magnum 335 Case or equivalent, or more. Both of which are 200k or more tractors, plus row crop mods. and if you haven't noticed farming isn't what it once was. I like my money and I like my old magnums. They don't break down, They are pretty good on fuel. No def. I can fix them. And best of all they are paid for. I don't think 25-30 horse is to much to ask. I am just wondering if I should do some work to the tranny to make it live.

I would get a smaller bar, but my customers require this size.

I know I can buy a bigger tractor. I want to know if this will work or how to make it work. Aka. technical info. Or info from those who are doing this or even those who have tried this and failed in this type of tractor. Or guys who work on these for a living would be helpful. I am going to do this. If something bad happens I guess I will be the guenny pig. It is still cheaper to rebuild the tranny than to buy an overpriced electronic piece of junk with a big radiator.

Thanks. Kyle

The bottom line is that on the 7250 your safety margin is 10-15 percent of the rated 215 PTO HP. Take this for what it is worth but I fellow I know that used to be a JD dealer mechanic told me that quite a number of Deere 8300 and 8400 tractors put out in excess of 300 HP and held up well. Yeah, they are getting to be 20 years old on average but they would cost less than a late Case IH or Deere. You may have to poke around a few dealer shops to get some ideas on your 7250. Like you said it may come down to you being willing to be your own test subject.

I know of a 7130 that is running 330 Hp /It's around Cortland,NY =They Ain't Broke it Yet .A Relative Had a 7150 He got used & it was Turned up when he bought it & it played with 8-18's,But he Thought it was making Funny Noises in the Rear End =Traded it off.

Magnums are a well built tractor but they do require repairs just like everything else man made. The neighbor had his 7120 in for powershift work and it cost him nearly 20,000 dollars.