Kohler KT17 missing update quite wordy

IA Roy

Well-known Member
Notice: I get wordy when I try to explain things. It was suggested by someone on a previous posting that I put this warning on the front of the posting instead of at the bottom, so they don't waste their time. They may have been joking, but it is difficult to tell over the net, however if everyone can see how long the posting is and they are not interested they can quit reading at any time. I am trying to pay back the people that help to educate me and hope I can do the same for others. I feel I take quite a bit of time to make sure my postings are as accurate, punctually and spelling correct as I can.
I checked things out today. I did a compression test cold and then took it out to warm it up enough to make it start misfiring. That was difficult as without a deck or the blower on it, it took quite awhile to get it warm. I pulled one of the plug wires after I ran it long enough to get it to start missing and the first one I pulled didn't make any difference, so I concluded that was the problem cylinder. I did the compression test again and both readings were lower than the first, but they were equal both times. The valve clearance on both intake and both exhaust valves was near zero. I got the valves and seats cleaned up and then lapped them after I shortened the stems enough to get a little clearance. I got the clearances fixed and am ready to reassemble except for a little problem that I caused. I was cleaning the exhaust manifold mounting bolt tapped holes and as I was backing the tap out on the second hole the tap snapped off. I guess I need to find out if the fleet store has a tap extractor or else I will give my son another experience with his new wire welder to try to weld a nut on the tap.
Thanks to all who suggested that the valve clearance might be the problem instead of an electrical issue as I thought it was.
 
Glad you found your problem. Thanks for posting your results for us. That helps others with your problem.
 
So it's running well, then?

How do you explain the lack of valve clearance... excessive seat erosion, or ERROR by someone who was in there before you?
 
Be careful with the tap thingy a die gringer mite be a better option theres a reason it broke so its not an easy removal thats why i suggest the die grinder with a GOOD CARBIDE small bit. BTDT
 
Be careful with those valves that you grind to get the spec clearance. One of them , is no longer available. I got the last one Madsens had a couple years ago.
 
IA Roy,

I think you may be on the right track, valves.
I had issues with a 20 hp kohler command. It has hydraulic lifters so clearance wasn't my problem. I did a compression test, passed. Did leak-down test, passed. I was told by local shop that my engine has head gasket and Valve problems. So I finally pulled the head off the cylinder that had a problem. Lapped in the valves and problem solved. So I concluded that compression and leak-down didn't really find my problem.

It sounds to me like you may have a flat head engine. If you have valve seat recession, you will have valve clearance problems. That will usually show up after engine is warm. If intake valve doesn't close all the way, it will push air backwards through carb resulting in too much fuel.

Good chance you solved the problem.
Geo
 
Roy here is a link to McMaster Carr for tap extractors. They ship quick too.

Be sure to blow out the hole before & during while trying to move your broken tap. Then move it ever so gently in both directions but in minute movements. Continue with compressed air to blow out debris while doing this.
Tap Extractors
 
Bob the valve seat or the value itself wear the surface during normal operation. This the valve goes deeper in the head to seat making it not have the correct clearance. Common problem on small engines.
 
I'm aware of that, but I've had a number of those engines and have not seen much valve or seat wear, even when the bores are worn out. Those seats are HARD.

Seems ODD to me for all the valves to be "tight" in one of those engines that is not otherwise worn out.

I just made one engine out of two for a project, and the valves and seats on the blocks I used cleaned up with just a touch of the grinder. Valve clearance didn't require much tweaking, either.
 
Sorry if I sounded condescending to you. I was unaware of your skill/knowledge level on small engines. I have been running into quality issues on the Kohler engines. I have had several that have had issues with valves and rings with under 500 hours of use on them. I would suspect that the valves/seats might be wearing unusually fast or they where set too tight at the factory.

I hate to say it but it seems like Honda and most Kawasaki are the only good quality small engines anymore. The B&S and Kohler's seem to not last like they did years ago.
 
JD Seller
I don't think I was referring to you. I have the utmost respect for you and your wealth of knowledge. I always read what you post. Sorry if I offended anyone. Sometimes I get a snarky moment and sometimes it comes out.
 
I wasn't offended in the least bit.

As far as the Kohler quality issues you mention, those engines were made LONG after the KT series.

From what I've seen the KT's had a pretty tough valve setup, but a TERRIBLE reputation for connecting rod failures because of depending upon splash oiling the connecting rod journals by oil spray holes in the hollow CAMSHAFT.
 
Bob the series one KT Kohler engines with the splash oiling system where a wreck waiting to happen. They did make a series two KT 17 engine that had a pressurized oil lube system. It was offered in the last year of the JD 317s. It was too little too late for Kohler. JD dropped them as a supplier for many years and the entire company went through a bad financial time.

Even back on the KT early engines I think they had quality issues even then. One engine would run for years and others would not last weeks.
 
It was me and I was joking. I'm sorry it didn't come across that way. A smile doesn't show up too well on the computer. TDF
 
(quoted from post at 14:02:51 12/13/15) It was me and I was joking. I'm sorry it didn't come across that way. A smile doesn't show up too well on the computer. TDF

Try the :wink: next time, I think it shows sarcasm
 
I got to wondering today if it was sarcasm or trying to be funny. I had just come in from the shop after I broke a tap off in a casting. I will post current with the results of that? I wasn't in a very good mood at that time as the barley pop effect did not kick in yet.
 

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