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I'm so excited!

N

notjustair

Well-known Member
My old Troy Bilt horse tiller is needing some new seals and probably a bearing or two. I guess you should do it every 40 years whether it needs it or not. I remembered hearing that something there had to be set with preload but couldn't recall what. I posted that question down on the garden tractor forum and I'll be darned if someone didn't copy their shop manual and mail it to me! I have a project by the wood stove this winter!

With all of the crazies on the Internet, it just goes to show you that love of the land and machines brings out the best people.
 
It does and they are a nice machine for what you pay for them, new or used. They were built not far from me since day one, I fondly recall going to get parts there, even made deliveries to the factory.

The manuals for these are posted on MTD's site, you can look up the serial number and see whats available in .pdf. It was great to find one for mine, and its really helpful. Looked up the section on how to do the axle oil seals, pretty easy. Napa has one brand of correct oil for these, Sta Lube, I'd have to go look at the container again for the type, but you do want oil that IS compatible with yellow, (non ferrous) metal, as these have an expensive bronze gear in them. Its basically the same as what was put in them from the factory.
 
I need to replace the axle seals on my Horse troy Built also, but the rim hub is rusted to the shaft, and I can't get it off. These are good machines. Someone gave this machine to me, with a bad drive gear years ago. I found with all the crooks on the net, like you said there are a lot of good people also. Stan
 
Stan - I had to get one off that was frozen to the axle. I welded a large nut to the wheel hub and ran a bolt into it to press on the end of the axle. I think the welding heat helped, plus I soaked it with PB Blaster every time I walked by it, for a week or so. Those wheels will bend pretty easy if you try to rig a puller to anything but the hub. You can leave the nut on there for the next time it's needed.
 
Sta-Lube Hypoid-SAE 140 API/GL4, 1 gallon at Napa was abut $38.00 in '14 as I recall. A standard,(non pto) mid 70's-late 70's horse will take just under a gallon, so you have some left to top off if needed, both axle and tine holder seals would be areas for leaks. Pretty sure this is the same type of oil they were shipped with.
 
I was just doing the math in my head. Realized my troy tiller is 39 years old. I'm on my third engine but don't ever remember replacing any seals on it. I guess I'll have to look forward to the job in a year or so. Although I don't use it much anymore, just for a little cultivating work.
 
Three years ago I bought an old Troy Built that I assume is in the 40 year old range. Paid a bit too much but the seller was a friend who needed money. It has a Tecumseh and it didn't run worth a hoot. I nursed it along the first year but it was so darned hard to keep running. Last spring I took the carb apart and found the tip of the load needle mangled up so I cleaned it up and threw in a needle and seat and new load needle. After that it started on the first pull and ran like a top. Now after going through a summer of use it has reverted back to being a normal Tecumseh. I don't know if it will start on the first pull or the twentieth pull but it does start. Once it's running it works like a champ though it does blow a little blue smoke but I figure the smoke gives it character. LOL
 
I have one of those. My dad got it new back in 1972. It has had the transmission rebuilt 3 or 4 times and is on the second engine and I use it every year to till my garden
 
I got my Troybilt Horse back in 1976. I had broken my leg from stealing 2nd base and with not much to do my wife drove us to Troy to pick it up at the factory. Did you know you could get two of them in the back of a Chevy Suburban, the neighbor wanted one also.
 
I have 4 of them and 2 run, I rebuilt one 4 years ago and just the parts were $400. The main shaft that goes from the engine to the splines will most likely have to be replaced and is about $150. I have a manual that shows you the tolerances and updates on newer shafts. There are several you tube videos on rebuilding the transmission.
 
I had one for about a year. Couldn't "stand" the horrible time it took to turn it around with no differential. Their ads saying a lady can handle it with one hand is true only on the straightwawy. Impossible to turn with one hand !!
 
See . . . . Crime doesn't pay. You STOLE 2nd Base and got a broken leg as your punishment. lol . Good guys always finish last. LOL
 
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