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641 wont start after carb rebuild and ignition tune up

M

mjbiddle

New User
641 turns over okay. Watched a youtube video on diagnosis and said to connect test light to distributor terminal as first check. I get a solid light which is good. Second test is to do same thing but this time crank engine. Test light is supposed to flash with the points open/close. But I still get solid light with this test. Video said that this means bad points. So I bought new Blue Streak points and condensor and get same results.

Another thing that I did when I put the new points/condensor/rotor was to replace the broken flat copper wire inside the distributor that goes from points to distributor terminal (then out to the coil). I thought maybe that gasket may have gotten damaged during the install so I put in a round fiber gasket there (in addition to the original) to insure no contact. Did not matter.

Tractor was running before the carb rebuild and new ignition kit. Third step in video is to check spark but that was predicated on passing step two - which I have not.

Any suggestions?
 
Either the points are not opening, or there is a short to ground somewhere between the points and the coil.
 
Surely you mean 0.025"! Did you have the rubbing block from the points on the high point of the distributor cam? If the light stays on while cranking your points are not opening and closing.
 

Yes. .025. Points came with a metal stick pre-measured. Manual says .024 - .029.

I pulled the rotor and dust cover off and watched the points open and close properly on cam high point while doing the test. I had another suggestion to make sure to file the glaze off the new points. I plan on doing that first (easiest) and then if that does not work try the wire off test above (2nd easiest).
 
mjbiddle- DON'T use a file on your points.. just pull a piece of paper bag throught the contacts
sme to polish them up.

HTH
 
REOST

mjbiddle- DON'T use a file on your points.. just pull a piece of paper bag through the contacts some to polish them up.
HTH
 
If he is using a simple test light and the light stays on while cranking, there's NO short and either the points aren't closing/making contact, or there's an OPEN between the points and the primary terminal where he's checking.

Or, is he using a self-powered test light that I missed reading about in his post?
 
Are you hooking your test light in series with the wire to the
distributor or hooking it between ground and the terminal?

If you're hooking the clip to ground and probing the terminal
then your points are not making contact when/if closed.

If you're connecting the test light to the battery, which terminal?
I assume since you're using a test light it has been converted to
a 12 volt negative ground system. Correct me if that's not right.
 
Did you remove the distributor? If you did the distributor may be out of time. Remove N01 sparkplug near the radiator and bring that piston to
tdc on the compression stroke. Then see where your rotor is pointing. Should be at the No1 plug tower. Hal
 
Take the distributor cap off and see if you have voltage all the way to the points with your test light.Mark
 
Had a one crack the insulation around that stud that the copper strip goes on where it passes through dist housing. It may have turned when the nut was loosened. It caused a grounding. You can also turn on key and open points with a screw driver "making and breaking" the point connections while placing your coil wire near a ground to see if it sparks.
 
Turn the engine until the points are closed. Turn the switch on and then take a screwdriver and open the points by forcing them open with pressure on the flexible part of the point assembly. Flex the points open and closed to see if there is any spark. If not then let the screwdriver touch the fixed part of the points as you close them and watch for a spark. If you do not see any spark then you have no eclectic circuit in the distributor.
 
I was wondering about that. I can see how the head of the terminal is insulated on the inside of distributor but how is the threaded part insulated as it passes through the housing? Could you see inside the housing or is that insulation removable? How did you end up fixing?
 
(quoted from post at 21:10:23 11/12/15) Are you hooking your test light in series with the wire to the
distributor or hooking it between ground and the terminal?

If you're hooking the clip to ground and probing the terminal
then your points are not making contact when/if closed.

If you're connecting the test light to the battery, which terminal?
I assume since you're using a test light it has been converted to
a 12 volt negative ground system. Correct me if that's not right.
Click to expand...

I clip the light to the battery negative. The tractor is 6v positive ground.
 
I suggest you connect one side of your unpowered test light to chassis ground and the other to the low-tension terminal on the distributor, rotate the engine so the points "open", then turn one the ignition switch and observe the light.

Light "ON" = OK, then need to verify that light goes out when points close.

Light "OFF" = short at points or distributor feed-though, or possibly no power getting to switch side of coil or a bad coil.

You can view the parts breakdown, showing Key # 19, the insulating "bushing" that insulates the terminal stud at the outside, and through the distributor body, and Key # 18, which insulates the stud from the distributor body at the inside.
Parts lookup
 
(quoted from post at 20:54:11 11/12/15) If he is using a simple test light and the light stays on while cranking, there's NO short and either the points aren't closing/making contact, or there's an OPEN between the points and the primary terminal where he's checking.

Or, is he using a self-powered test light that I missed reading about in his post?
Click to expand...

The insulator where the stud comes through the distributor runs flush with the outside of the distributor. When I removed the nuts and washer to take off the wire from the coil either there was an insulator washer that I did not notice and it dropped somewhere or I scratched the paint on the outside of the distributor just enough to cause a short with the coil washer. So I put a couple of rubber washers (temporary fix - too thick) one one inside of distributor and one on the outside and tractor started right up. Oy!
 
(quoted from post at 18:00:30 11/18/15)
(quoted from post at 20:54:11 11/12/15) If he is using a simple test light and the light stays on while cranking, there's NO short and either the points aren't closing/making contact, or there's an OPEN between the points and the primary terminal where he's checking.

Or, is he using a self-powered test light that I missed reading about in his post?
Click to expand...

The insulator where the stud comes through the distributor runs flush with the outside of the distributor. When I removed the nuts and washer to take off the wire from the coil either there was an insulator washer that I did not notice and it dropped somewhere or I scratched the paint on the outside of the distributor just enough to cause a short with the coil washer. So I put a couple of rubber washers (temporary fix - too thick) one one inside of distributor and one on the outside and tractor started right up. Oy!
Click to expand...

Here's the insulator (bushing) that goes through the distributor housing.

30238.jpg


30240.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 17:19:14 11/18/15)
(quoted from post at 18:00:30 11/18/15)
(quoted from post at 20:54:11 11/12/15) If he is using a simple test light and the light stays on while cranking, there's NO short and either the points aren't closing/making contact, or there's an OPEN between the points and the primary terminal where he's checking.

Or, is he using a self-powered test light that I missed reading about in his post?
Click to expand...

The insulator where the stud comes through the distributor runs flush with the outside of the distributor. When I removed the nuts and washer to take off the wire from the coil either there was an insulator washer that I did not notice and it dropped somewhere or I scratched the paint on the outside of the distributor just enough to cause a short with the coil washer. So I put a couple of rubber washers (temporary fix - too thick) one one inside of distributor and one on the outside and tractor started right up. Oy!
Click to expand...

Here's the insulator (bushing) that goes through the distributor housing.

30238.jpg


30240.jpg
Click to expand...

Ahhh, so my bushing broke. Thanks for the part number, much easier.
 
(quoted from post at 20:35:06 11/18/15)
(quoted from post at 17:19:14 11/18/15)
(quoted from post at 18:00:30 11/18/15)
(quoted from post at 20:54:11 11/12/15) If he is using a simple test light and the light stays on while cranking, there's NO short and either the points aren't closing/making contact, or there's an OPEN between the points and the primary terminal where he's checking.

Or, is he using a self-powered test light that I missed reading about in his post?
Click to expand...

The insulator where the stud comes through the distributor runs flush with the outside of the distributor. When I removed the nuts and washer to take off the wire from the coil either there was an insulator washer that I did not notice and it dropped somewhere or I scratched the paint on the outside of the distributor just enough to cause a short with the coil washer. So I put a couple of rubber washers (temporary fix - too thick) one one inside of distributor and one on the outside and tractor started right up. Oy!
Click to expand...

Here's the insulator (bushing) that goes through the distributor housing.

30238.jpg


30240.jpg
Click to expand...

Ahhh, so my bushing broke. Thanks for the part number, much easier.
Click to expand...
You're welcome!
 
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