Questions on my 340 Farmall & John Deere No 5 Sickle Mow

Howdy all,
I had a thread started on a manual for my mower, but i feel that the next questions have outgrown that so I 'm starting anew. Long story short I'm getting a 340 and a No. 5 sickle mower going that has been in my family for at least 30 years. The tractor has not run much in the last 15-20 years, but has been stored inside. The mower had not been used much either in that same time period, but has been sitting outside.

Over the weekend I put a new battery in the tractor, checked all the fluids and got it running. That thing has always ran well. I hitched it to the sickle mower and Hotsy'd both of them off. Spent most of yesterday putting a new Hyd hose & pitman stick & on the mower, as well as greasing it. Hoping to test it out in the next week or so before the weather turns too cold.

Here is a picture taken JUST before I washed the pair:





I do have a couple of questions (Which will likely spawn even more questions):

[size=18:22b980a4d4]QUESTION 1[/size:22b980a4d4]
Based on this picture, info from a friend & what I have been able to pick up in the Operators Manual is the rim size a 10-36 and the tire is a 12-36. Correct?



After talking to a good friend of mine he mentioned that finding that size tire would be impossible. The manual says that the tractor could have came with a 12.4x36. I figure that will fit on the 10-36 rim. This whole thing stems from the fact that one of the rims is soo badly rusted that it is seeping air. Hoping I can find a used rim and maybe reuse the tires. Colfax Tractor & Combine Parts is fairly close to me and after I gather some info I plan on contacting them.

[size=18:22b980a4d4]QUESTION 2[/size:22b980a4d4]
Based on what is commonly available at a farm store/automotive store, what oil should I put in the sickle mower gear box?

[size=18:22b980a4d4]QUESTION 3[/size:22b980a4d4]
This one might be a bit more complicated. As long as I can remember that tractor has had what I think is a peculiar Hyd problem. When sitting idle, the Hyd valve always sounds like it is "working." When you use the Hyd system, like raising the 2 point, the RPM raises slightly and the "working" noise lessens. The tractor seems "Happier." It seems like the hydraulics are fighting themselves when not being used and using them brings "relief" to the tractor. It has always been this way, but I was never sure why. Not sure if it is related, but the power steering is nearly a joke as well. You either have to be moving or rock the tractor back and forth to move the front wheels without lots of hyd squeeling and "catches" in the turning.

My current plan is to get these in good working order and then sell them to fund another project. So I'm looking to do this on a budget. One catch in that plan is that I'm beginning to enjoy tinkering on these again.

Thanks ahead of time,
Russ

I run 90/140 gear oil in the gearbox on my #5.

In answer to #2, the Operator's manual calls for "140-weight transmission oil".

In today's world, that would be "140-weight gear oil", which shouldn't be too tough to find at farm stores or a NAPA-like place.

On leaky rusted rims, I always welded up the holes, ground the welds smooth, painted with 2-3 coats. If doubtful spots of roughness were still there, use 2-3 layers of duct tape. If badly rusted out around valve stem, I would weld that area up and drill an new valve stem hole in a good section of rim. If you have access to good used rims that is a better alternative.

KEH

Thanks guys! LOTS of good help thus far. [b:d1b1332044]If[/b:d1b1332044] I ended up having to buy a used set of tires as well, what are the most common sizes that can be mounted on a 10-36 rim (aside from the 12.4x36)? That way I increase my chances of finding a set of used ones.

Russ

Are your tires 12.4-36 or just 12-36? There is a difference. 12-36 would be an older number, and the modern equivalent would, I believe, be 13.6-36. A 12.4-36 would be equal to the older 11-36.
Just making sure you're comparing apples to apples.

On my mower the gear oil kept leaking out, so I pumped a couple tubes of JD Corn Head grease into it. That seems to be staying put.

Thanks!
The tires on it are 12-36. I took a picture this weekend as a reference (see above). I just need to figure out, if I have to buy used tires, what I should get. Something similar, and common enough that a guy might find a used set that isn't too bad.

Forgot to add the picture:



Thanks again!

Question 3 is concerning. Something is definitely wrong from the symptoms you describe. Sounds like the fluid is not returning to the reservoir through the
control valve as it should. Instead it is blowing off the pop off valve, which is creating a huge strain on the hydraulic system. Assuming the power
steering shares the same pump, there is a priority valve somewhere in the system, that could be the problem. Not familiar enough with that particular system
to give much help, but someone on the Farmall board can probably tell you exactly what the problem is.

If possible, I would repair the rim per KEH and use a tube.