Concrete floor for hoist

Rick Kr

Well-known Member
I was lucky and picked up a two post hoist for my shop.
My floor is 4 inch concrete with fencing, which is the minimum the instructions call for.

Here's my dilemma. As I line the hoist up with my door opening, both posts will sit directly on top of the relief cuts in the concrete. I'm afraid that the anchor bolts will Crack over to the relief cuts.

The hoist pads are 12" x 24" I was thinking I would cut out roughly 20 x 30 openings then dig down 2-3feet. Then fill with concrete to create a pilings.

Any ideas? I can't really move the hoist then it would be not in line with the door opening and then tricky to get a car on it.

Thanks
Rick
 
That would be exactly the way I would do it. Cut the floor and pour pad even with the floor at least 18 inches deep. deeper probly the better.
 
When we replaced a block load-bearing wall in the basement of our house with a beam and posts, the inspector had us pour 36x36x24 inch footings under the two center posts with four pieces of re-rod at opposing angles in two planes. And we formed them so a corner of the footing pointed to each house wall, rather than parallel sides to the house walls. The relief joints in the new basement floor then went from the post to the wall right over the corner of the footing. I think something of this magnitude would be more than sufficient for your hoist.
 
Likely the solution, but I would highly recommend having the manufacturer approve what you propose to build, (if available to do so) describe existing conditions,PSI of existing concrete, reinforcing, pier details and fastener details. I know for example, Mohawk would provide a foundation detail for their lift, new certainly, as well as 2nd hand.

Expansion bolts, sleeve anchors or epoxy fasteners will not perform if the concrete is defective, can spall or if the control joints do not coordinate with the slab connections, I would agree, something like a column footing should be acceptable, I'd just want to make sure its built to tolerate the moment loads when in use, with some redundancy/safety factor built in.
 

What you want to do would be O.K. .. but I would go 3 feet deep and put rods in it and in the pad on top .. I did the same thing .... in my information it said to let the concrete cure for min. of 30 days ... it also said what PSI it should be ...
My lift is in my warehouse ... dirt floor ... my pads are 4 feet deep and a pad on top 3 foot square .. the only think I wish was I would have got it 10 years earlier ... make sure you have HEAD ROOM .... that's why minds in the warehouse ... 14 foot ceiling in shop only 10 foot ..

YOu will really enjoy it ... just let the concrete cure ....... mark
 
No need to go crazy digging to China. This farmer poured floor in the 1960's had a couple of cracks in it that I did not like and I did not know the thickness or if any reinforcing.

I figured it was easier to cut one piece out than two. This piece is now seven to eight inches thick and rerod tied the length of the drill bit into the old floor.

My asymmetrical lift has lifted one ton diesel pick-ups with no problems.
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I agree with Billy NY, get the manufacturers footing design and specifications for the hoist. You maybe surprised to find out that what you have proposed is either very close to what they spec or excessive. Can't hurt to check it out. You might consider setting your anchor bolts when you place your concrete. gobble
 
Take and bolt the lift to a 3/4 in steel plate that is 2 foot by 2 foot. Then bolt the plate to the cement. That should spread out the load.

Ranch
 
I installed several hundreds of theswe new lifts when the old air hydraulics were outlawed. Always cut floor and poured 8 "" of concrete with rebar reinforcement. Never a problem.
 

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