saved the tube

Mike(NEOhio)

Well-known Member
Location
Newbury, Ohio
I was determined not to put a hole in that new tube. After three hours of trying to dismount the tire on the tractor I took it off and laid it on the floor. Had one bead off in 15 minutes. I managed to get some fingers inside and unscrewed the stem then drained it over a drum and took the tube out. How much pressure should I put in to seat the bead? I always heard 40 to 45 psi. Guy I got the tire from said not that much.
 
I just keep putting in air till it's fully seated, then take the valve core out and let it empty and then air it up however I want it. Pretty easy but it takes a little longer to fill the tire twice.
Zach
 
Should say on the side of the tire, usually 30--35psi. More than that and you risk the rim splitting,esp. If it is old,and that's dangerous. Ben
 
I'm and old tire man and have done hundreds of tires be they tractor truck car and split rims and one should never go above 30-35 PSI to seat the beads. If you need more then that it is time to let the air back out and lube the beads more etc. Also one should have the beads seated before one ever try's to fill a tube with fluid that way you do not have to air them up to 30 or so to seat the beads with fluid in them
 
Do not put valve core in before seating tire. That's so you will not have repeat of having stem out of position and slipping inside the rim and your stuck again trying to get it out. If stem slips out of position with valve core removed you will have flat tire to work with not one that's blowed up and may take an ice pick to deflate. I was taught when inflating a tubed tire to blow it up a couple of times with the valve core out to get the wrinkles out of the tube and then set the core and inflate
Untitled URL Link
 
Hi
It sounds like if this was a rear tractor tire you might of been missing the stem nut that locks the valve in the rim hole. The tip i use is to get a valve stem fishing wire Tool. you put the tube in the tire and rim then before you fit the last bead. Thread the lock nut on up by the tool handle, then if the valve is 2 piece remove the inner core, screw the outer on the end of the tool if it can pass through the rim hole . insert through valve hole in rim and with the tube close to lined up. screw the outer core in the tube. Then fit the last bead. if the stem is one piece fixed to the tube just remove core and screw the tool on where the dust cap fits like with a 2 piece. fit the last bead then pull the vale through, turning the tire a little to move the tube if things don't line up nice in the hole. screw the lock nut on. remove tool and air the tire without the core valve in to seat the beads. if there is no lock nut I gently use a small pair if vice grips when I remove the fishing tool to stop the stem going back in the tire, when I blow it up. If it looks like the valve is pulling in,stop quickly and get the tool back on to stop it so you can still let it down and re align without loosing the valve .
That fishing tool and proper tire soap are the best 2 things I have ever brought for doing tires. The tool works real nice on 4.00x 19 type or other narrow/small tires you struggle to get your hands in, to poke the valves through normally, i bet it's saved more skinned knuckles than i'd care to suffer as well.
Regards Robert
 
If you don't have a stem nut on it for the outside of the rim, clamp a pair of visegrips on the stem so you don't ;ose it again as you stretch the tube out inside of the tire.....
 
Mike do not waste your time using dish soap to mount a rear tire, it ain't slick enough! What shape are your rims in? Is there a lot of build up on the rims? You may need to clean up the bead area of the rims. How old are the tires? The tire makers recommend no more that 35 lb, however I have seen more used when mounting some new Firestone rears. They are made to very tight specs. What size and ply are the tires? Come back, will ck the sight tomorrow AM when I Get to work
 
OK guys, Let me explain. It's a new tire, tube and rim and has been on the tractor for couple of months, air only. The other side is loaded full. Last week I drained the old tire and transferred it to the new one, about 2/3 full. I put the stem in and let it down but with no additional air. I was backing slowly to where I could hose off the spillage when I noticed the stem at an angle, the ring was off. Didn't anticipate the tire creeping without any pressure. By the time I got it back into the shed the stem was inside the rim. Lesson learned. I'll get it back on and filled tomorrow. I have a 14X38 rim from my Oliver at the sandblaster but I'll let the tire shop put the 16.9 back on with a new tube. Air only.
 

I agree with the max of 40 lbs to seat a bead, but like others I have gone higher. One time at the tire store we went to 50 with no success on a used 20.8x38 for one of my pullers even after resoaping. So the mechanic, (my buddy), let it back down to about 15 and told me to put it back on, drop it to 10 and drive it around a little. It didn't take long and it was evened right out.
 
OK these guys are right about the pressure. 35 to 40 lbs should do it -- get your self some tire lube from NAPA or some farm tire shop to remount it
 

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