Leveling a footing?

Dave H (MI) · Sep 16, 2015

I am putting a retaining wall on the east side of the barn which will double as a loading dock. The wall extends out from the corners of the barn 10 feet and runs about 50 feet across. It will be a block wall which eventually I will veneer with field stone. I have really limited experience with block but what I HAVE done I know that if I start off with a level base, I am more likely to have a level top. So I have dug a 42" trench and the concrete arrives Friday AM. What is the easiest way to make sure I am level from one end to the other? I generally use a long plastic tube with water in it and two sticks with marks on them for things like this but, I guess what I am asking is, how do I get this stuff to level? Will it tend to get close to level on it's own or....???? Any tricks to this process?

Super Trucker · Sep 16, 2015

Throw a 2x4 form up on both sides of the trench and level that with a level. When you pour the concrete you strike off to the top of the board and your done.

Jim in Ma. · Sep 16, 2015

Do you have a form at least in the top of the trench? If you do just make that level and you will be good to go..

Dblair · Sep 16, 2015

if it's going to hold dirt back put dead men in to hold the wall

PJH · Sep 16, 2015

Some folks drive grade pins in the trench - pieces of re-bar driven to the finish grade of the footer. Some folks make a primitive T-shaped finishing tool to seal the concrete footer surface without having to reach down into the trench. Much easier on your back. You are correct that you need to start out with a level surface. I personally like batter boards and string to work off of. Concrete will NOT seek it's own level.

ohiojim · Sep 16, 2015

you put grade stakes in the bottom at the height you want the concrete,...every 3 or 4 feet should be good then strike it off with a straight edge.

ed will · Sep 16, 2015

Hi, if you leave the top of the form below finished groun level the form won't need to be pretty. Just level it. You may want to put upright 1/2"rebar every 16"or32"to lessen the chance of wall failure. A couple of linear steel in footing helps too. Especially with block. Ed will

Stephen Newell · Sep 16, 2015

Your water level is a good way to level your forms. If you have one a transit level could also be used. More important you really need to know what specifications for the footing in your area. Depending on the soil in your area the width and thickness of the footing can vary. Where I live you could almost get away with a footing 2" thick but 30 miles from me they have black gumbo soil which a 2" footing would bust all to pieces.

Bob Harvey · Sep 16, 2015

That system is pretty much perfect. A string line doesn't lie, a plumb bob is the best tool in the world. Your 'water level' is perfect unless you are going 10 miles out. - Curvature of the planet comes into play. These are the tools that I have used in the construction of more than 50 homes and 16 commercial bldgs. Yo ! you gots it rite !!

Bob Harvey · Sep 16, 2015

Just re-reread your post. Depending on the liquidity of the concrete at time of delivery. "wet" will self level, but you are likely looking at more than 1 load, get a rented vibrator (and someone to run it -fast down, slow up). Make sure your forms will NOT move. Hope This Helps. HPH

Bob Harvey · Sep 16, 2015

Afterthought. Get a surveyor. OR rent a laser level. I have done both, and found that my (old) method was within 1/4". HTH P.S. the freakin' wood isn't that close = 1 of the reasons I retired. Getting old was a part.

MSD · Sep 16, 2015

I've set up a string line that is level and at the height of the first course of blocks. Pour the concrete in the trench and set the blocks in the wet concrete. No forms needed as long as the grade your working on is fairly level and the blocks won't move off the footing.

dpendzic · Sep 16, 2015

that's exactly how i start a block wall on a footing--then stick in rebar dowels about every two feet OC

tomturkey · Sep 16, 2015

If your just using the trench wall for the form, 1. you can drive rebar pins in the center of the trench about every six to eight foot to maintain a level footing. 2. you can put paint stripes on the earthen walls. or drive pins into the side walls. The more effort you put into getting that footing as level as you can will save frustration when getting that first course of block layed in there. If your an experienced block layer, then building that mortar bed up 1/2 -3/4 of an inch is no big deal. any of the .ways previously mentioned will work. Have fun.........gobble

MarkB_MI · Sep 17, 2015

Like everyone else said, if you're not using forms you can drive stakes into the bottom of the trench and use the top of the stake as your reference for level. It doesn't really matter what the stake is made of, since it's going to be covered in concrete. But how are you going to get the stakes level? If you have a helper you can use a transit or dumpy level. If you have to do it solo, then get a laser level. Or you can use your water level.

If the concrete is mixed properly (meaning with the minimum amount of water, it's not going to self-level. If your pour will fill the trench, you'd better rent a vibrator to ensure there are no gaps; if you don't have an equipment rental place nearby your concrete supplier might have one to rent.
Concrete vibrator

Geo-TH,In · Sep 17, 2015

Best thing I bought was a dewalt self-leveling rotating laser. I put down a 30x50 6 inch concrete slab. If I was off by 1/4 inch it would cost me a yard of concrete, $100. Laser paid for itself the first time I used it.

Leveling a footing?

Dave H (MI)

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Super Trucker

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Jim in Ma.

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Dblair

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PJH

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ohiojim

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ed will

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Stephen Newell

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Bob Harvey

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Bob Harvey

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Bob Harvey

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MSD

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dpendzic

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tomturkey

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MarkB_MI

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Geo-TH,In

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