How hard is it to move a hydrant?

Dave H (MI) · Sep 10, 2015

I have a fella coming out to dig some footings around the barn for a retaining wall. While he is here, there is a hydrant on an adjacent property (bought it in July) that is about 100 feet from the barn. I would like it closer to the barn so I thought I would have the fella expose the bottom of the hydrant so that I can HOPEFULLY get it disconnected and then run a line up by the edge of the driveway and reinstall the hydrant. Just wondering what is likely to be down there for a water line? What is traditionally used on these? None of the last three owners seems to have the slightest idear either. I REALLY hope I am not about to step into something here.

rustyfarmall · Sep 10, 2015

(reply to post at 14:05:50 09/10/15)

Depends completely on how long that hydrant has been there. It might be galvanized pipe. More likely, it will be black plastic. Easy enough to cut and splice into.

randallk · Sep 10, 2015

It could be anything...but probably a 1" line feeding it. Probably black plastic. But then again.......could be anything. Just dig it up and see what you've got. You're going to move it anyway so you should be able to adapt it to whatever you plan to use for the new water line. No big deal. I'm assuming it's a frost-free hydrant. Just be sure to shut the water line off before digging.

Dave H (MI) · Sep 10, 2015

I will, thanks. Be interesting trying to find what circuit controls them. My understanding is that "back in the day" a pig was traded in exchange for wiring the old house. That is all the history I could get.

Billy NY · Sep 10, 2015

You shouldn't be getting into anything complicated. Only drawback is not knowing up front so you have have the fittings, hardware or other materials.

I've dug them up at our farm numerous times for repairs, install new ones or further insulate as we have bed rock up into the frost line. Could be black plastic, galvanized steel, copper etc. You may have to make a transition from one or the other, and be sure to not connect dissimilar materials, like galvanized steel to copper, it will react and oxidize, corrode etc.

The one in the photo, I carefully maneuvered this excavator through our arena and into the barn area to expose both, to repair/replace and further insulate. I was ready to do the fitting work at 9am, dear ole dad said he had all the fittings, I spent the next 5 hours running around finding what I needed, really hate jobs that don't have the materials on hand when you need them, such is life, that was 5 hours of machine time I could have used to make other improvements at the place, some people just don't understand how to hustle sometimes LOL!

Dave H (MI) · Sep 10, 2015

Fortunately, I am doing the back fill. I do not have a backhoe but he can leave the trench open and I can work on it and then fill it in myself. No bedrock here but the subsoil is hard right now after all the hot dry weather.

rrlund · Sep 10, 2015

They're not that expensive. Why not just buy a new one and leave that one where it is? You start messing with old plumbing,you won't stop the leaks until you're all the way back to the well.

Billy NY · Sep 10, 2015

That will work, hard digging here too, been dry as well. Did a job in the fine sand area north of here a week and half ago, that's the only easy digging around this area for sure.

showcrop · Sep 10, 2015

(reply to post at 14:05:50 09/10/15)

I'm with Randy. You will get it transplanted, and within a month you will need to dig it up because it starts dripping, or doesn't drain.

ss55 · Sep 10, 2015

Price a new hydrant before you dig up the old one. If you have one unexpected problem at $75+ per hour you might be ahead to just tee into the existing line at the closest point, dig in a new water line off that and install a new hydrant that will outlast you.

Mark the spot of the tee or take some measurements so you can find it if you need to cap off the old line some day.

fixerupper · Sep 10, 2015

Roger I'll go along with you. If you dig up an old hydrant and place it somewhere else there's a likely chance it will either not shut off anymore or will start leaking out the weep hole or leak out the weep hole while it's turned on.

in-too-deep · Sep 10, 2015

That Case boom looks awful green...

Billy NY · Sep 11, 2015

Sunbelt rentals, compliments of the power company forestry outfit, in thanks for being helpful providing access on the back of our place to a section of transmission lines.

JML755 · Sep 11, 2015

Dave H (MI),
I'm with the others on installing a new one. I've repaired leaking ones numerous times with kits only to have to dig them up later because they were leaking at the bottom (wouldn't shut off). One suggestion I'd made is to make the hole large enough for you to work in and FILL it to the top with pea gravel. Then, if there's a problem, you minimize the "digging" by just using a shop vac to remove the pea gravel. A typical leaking one will have the hole continually filling with seepage from the supply line even after you shut off the feed and it's a lot easier to remove wet pea gravel than mud. The shop vac is also handy to remove water from the bottom as you work on the line. Done this twice and it works great.

FBH44 · Sep 11, 2015

Me, I would not try to jack around with some old hydrant, it could be plumbed in iwth galvanized or brittle plastic. I'd just bypass it and set a brand new one. All new and use NO galvanized.

How hard is it to move a hydrant?

Dave H (MI)

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rustyfarmall

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randallk

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Dave H (MI)

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Billy NY

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Dave H (MI)

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rrlund

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Billy NY

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showcrop

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ss55

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fixerupper

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in-too-deep

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Billy NY

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JML755

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FBH44

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