School Me on the John Deere 650

Hey guys!

So, I happened to be talking to my neighbor and mentioning that I needed a lawnmower for my property, and he mentioned that a relative of his wants to sell the tractor in the picture.

From what I've been told, its been pretty well taken care of, but currently doesnt run. He says theres a plastic fuel bulb near the injection pump that cracked, and leaked all the diesel out, and the owner has tried to fix it several times but it just cracks again. I dont think hes actually replacing anything, but rather just trying to repair it.

Questions:

> What might be a fair price for this machine?
> Who made it? I know its painted up in Deere clothes, but it looks like an "Asian" made tractor. Am I mistaken? Its completely possible, of course
> Are parts out there for these?
> Diesel guys, does this sound to you like a serious issue?
> How bad is it going to be if this thing needs a completely new fuel system?

Thanks in advance everyone!

I think its pretty close to a Yanmar YM2000.

Made by Yanmar, good little compacts, simple, tough. Never been around anything smaller than a 750. Deere has all the parts.

Is the engine free? Looks like exhaust is not covered.

It's a Yanmar wearing Deere paint. Worst things are no power steering or live PTO.

Tough as nails, but keep radiator clean and don't overheat it.

I understand certain parts may be NLA from DEERE, but likely anything that may be leaking in the fuel system is still available.

The injection pump isn't the problem, NO plastic parts there.

My GUESS the leak is either at the fuel filter bowl, or the little plastic reservoir for the Thermostart.

The fuel filter bowl, # CH15552, is still available, and about $14 from DEERE.

The complete fuel filter assembly, # CH15551, is about $80.

The Thermostart tank, # CH11796, is about $19.

I've seen ASKING prices from the $2500 to $7500 range.

I have a 1981 model 650. It is one of the first generations of them. I wanted a 750, but this was available used for a rock bottom price. It had 412 hrs on it when I got it and has over 1,500 on it now. This little 2 cylinder engine is tough as nails and with a little care it will last a long time I have run it hard and done very little to it. I did crack a piston once because I got impatient and sprayed it with ether rather than charge the battery. The tractor was a victim of stupid me. DO NOT USE ETHER ON THIS ENGINE! Use the cold weather start system, it works. I replaced the 2 pistons/w rings,rod bearings and the gaskets for less than $125.00. I have owned it sine 1987 and have replaced 2 batteries, 1 voltage regulator, one water pump and one fan belt. I had the injection pump rebuilt at about 1,000 hrs because it was starting to skip a little and lose power.. The best thing I did for mine was to change it to wet brakes and stop wearing out a set of brake linings about every year when mowing. I pull a 5' Mott flail mower with mine with the fine cut blades on it and for many years I mowed 3 acres with it weekly. I sold all of the rental houses and now I only have 1 & 1/2 acres that I mow with it. I had an IH Cub loader adapted to it for 10 years until I bought a Backhoe/loader unit. I had power steering on it as long as I had a loader on it but took it off for a repair and decided not to put it back on. If you buy it and want power steering, contact me.I have kit for it. It is no longer available from Deere. This is one tough little tractor and the only bad thing is the PTO does work off the transmission, so no live PTO, but if you do a little thinking that will not bother you. I would buy mine again in a heartbeat I have only good words for it. The fuel filter bowl is plastic and is prone to crack from weathering, but easy to replace and not too expensive from Deere. I replace the ag tires on mine with the turf style tires and it does not tear up the lawn when making sharp turns. I use 12" automobile radials on the front also because those 3 rib tires tear up grass. If you can get it for around 2,000-2,500 it will be a good deal with the 4' bush hog style cutter behind it. A mid mount mower was available for this tractor as well as a 3pt. hitch finish mower from Deere.

Keep in mind that the 2 cyl engine only has 14.5 pto hp.

Dad bought a 750 new in 1981 and still is on the farm. Pulled a 5' finish mower and a 4' garden tiller. In the fall it ran a 6' auger filling a 150000 bu flat storage building and then empting it. New had a problem with it just out grew it. As for the bowl its a normal wear out item.replaced it several times in 35 years.

Those 2 cylinder Yanmar engines run somewhat rough not smooth like the 3 cylinders takes some getting used to
may or may not be a concern for you.

i bought its larger brother, the 850 last month, im happy with it, somebody did some rigging on the electrical system which i need to fix, it works well with the loader and small backhoe attachment it came with, if one remembers this is not a commercial backhoe and while it will dig it does it slowly,power is similar to a n series ford,with much better fuel economy, needed new rear wheels, not problem, deere dealer got them quickly, said he could get most everything on it still, my only fault is im 6'4 and 280, with size 14 feet, the operators station was made for somebody about 5'4 and 120, with size 9 feet , i can run it but my feet make it hard to get on and off by hanging up between the fender and the transmission case

one thing i will say is if you get it, cap that stack!!! when its not running, even a old tin can or pop can will do to keep rain out, even in a barn or shed, a open stack gets crap from mice, squirrels, barn cats, and birds down it, and that can mean big problems , compared to the few seconds it takes to put a can on it

I'm curious about how you changed the brakes over to "wet" brakes ?

I removed the brake cover and shoes, Removed the brake shaft seal replaced it with a new seal turned around in The bore.Replaced it all and then I tapped the vent hole for 1/8" pipe threads and put a 90 degree fitting in with a hose fitting for 1/4" plastic tubing and raised it up about 12" and inserted the end of the hose in a hole in my ROPS unit. I added 1/2 pint of ATF fluid into the brakes by using a squirt cup oil can and then replace the hose into a hole in the ROPS unit to keep; it elevated and to prevent draining of the fluid. I refill it about every 2 years and have run it for about 12 years and not replaced the brakes and only adjusted them slightly. Not exactly a true wet brake, but it has extended the life of these brakes greatly.

I think the belly mowers had a electric clutch on them