sure-trac 14k?

Geo-TH,In

Well-known Member
About 4 years ago I purchased a 18+2 14k sure-trac implement trailer. There is only
one thing I don't like about it. When it's empty it kicks the rear of the truck. It
beats me to death. I can't hold on to a cup of coffee without getting it all over me.
Put a 3200# tractor on it and you couldn't ask for a better trailer .

Is there a way to smooth it out when it's empty? Been thinking of reducing the air
pressure. Even wondering if I could remove some leaf springs. There are 7 leafs. The
most I carry is 4500# and the trailer empty is a tick over 3K, less than 8K total.

Sure-trac makes a 10k trailer. The deck look the same. They use 2 5k axles. So how can
I convert my trailer safely to a 10k and take the bounce out?
14k implement trailer
 
The 5200,6,7,000 lb axles are all a family so there is little you would notice as far as differences. The 6k has a better quality spindle than the 5200 and the 7k adds a thicker wall tube and stronger magnets in the brakes. The springs are ordered separate and it depends on what the builder wanted. My guess is your problem is related to the distance from truck wheels to trailer wheels. I've had it where the spacing is just right and you will the wheels perfectly matching the bumps on the road so the timing is perfect to create that problem. Try buying a shorter or longer hitch bar first.
 
Do you have the suspension bars that go from the trailer to the hitch to stiffen up the hitch and take weight off the rear of the truck? If so, take them off empty.

I borrowed a buddy's trailer once to get a tractor so I wouldn't have to use my big gooseneck and about broke my neck going down the highway until I took those off. It wouldn't let the truck and trailer pivot up and down.
 
That's what I was going to suggest.

Geo, you are a pretty inventive man, if chaining the front axle helped, bet you could fab some hinged hooks that would swing down and hook under the axle to hold it up.
 
Are you sure it's the trailer? I have a 6 ton tandem trailer. Whenever I would pull it empty it would shake the truck enough to drive you nuts. Loaded it was smooth as could be and didn't have to be a heavy load. I always swore at the trailer. I week ago, I loaded two 11.25 tires & rims loaded with solution in the back of the truck to have them dismounted. I noticed that the truck sat about the way it does with the empty trailer hooked up. Got going down the road and the truck was shaking like I had the empty trailer hooked up. Had the solution pumped out and the tires dismounted. On the way back with the tires and rims, truck rode as smooth as could be. Something about a certain weight on that truck makes it shake like nuts. Might be something in the tires. Will find out this fall when I put new tires on.
 
raise one axle when empty. Chain so will still work properly when loaded. May need to remove a leaf on each axle.
 
Steve,
I like your idea. I may not get any sleep tonight just thinking about how I can build two hinged hooks, one for each end of axle. Raise the front axle with a floor jack and hook it up. I have two aluminum racing jacks. One at each end of town. They are very easy for an old man to put in back of truck.
 
If you have a slipper type suspension just raise the front axle, and pin up the front of the equalizer. I would weld 2 straps down from the frame on each side of the equalizer and drill a hole through them and the equalizer right below the spring then just pin through it. To raise the axle I would cut a 2x6 into 12,18,24" pieces and nail them together in a stack, then cut them at as sharp an angle as posible with a chainsaw. Make 2 of those to drive up on and you will be able to lock your axle up in minutes. You can also buy this for the jack.
Jack
 
KenL
What you are describing is Newton's First law, inertia. Increasing the mass of the truck will have the same effect as increasing the mass on the trailer.

Even without pulling a trailer, a heavy truck rides smoother than an empty truck.
 
Bill,
I have 7 leafs, 3 of the longest are banded together. I was thinking of starting with the smallest springs closest to the axle and turning 3 or 4 of them over, curved down. That way I can use the same spring shackle and the fender clearance will be the same too.
 
George a good friend had the same issue your having. The weight and length of the trailer have to be exactly right for this to happen. So when you make the trailer heavier it quits. I bet that if you made the trailer longer it would quit as well.

My friend bought a SHOCKER air ride hitch for his pickup. This is for a bumper hitch trailer. HE loves it and it really improved the ride. They are not cheap but would be cheaper than trading trailers.
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Happened to me today too. Bought a real nice load trail 14k from the place in spencer, in. Drove to Illinois empty today, what a bear. Came back with a 6 row corn head on a cart on it, pulled like a dream!
 
I pull every day with a shocker hitch. Best $500.00 I ever spent. I'll never pull without one again. I don't know I'm pulling a trailer any more. Look up "shocker hitch" on the internet.
 
I looked on ebay, $446.23.

Only concern is like air shocks and small tires, they leak air. Air shocks have a short life. I read where you have to add air every few months.

How long have you had yours and is it true about leaking down?
shocker hitch
 
oliverguy,
It's nice to know that I'm not the only one who had this problem. Now we need to figure out a simple solution.

I'm experimenting with mounting spare under front of trailer, loading the tool box with six 16x16 concrete pavers along with log chains. May flip a few rear springs over. Would love to find a 200-300 # piece of metal I could attach to front of trailer.

If all else, I'll get the shocker hitch. I paid more for a weight transfer hitch, which I only used once to transport a Ford 4x4. May stop off at RV dealer and see what they have.
 

George I have a similar air bag on my pickup rear axle for a softer ride. The air bags are Goodyear. They are 12-13 years old and I have never replaced one yet but the replacement is under $75 as I check it a few years ago about making one. They will hold the same air pressure for several months without leaking down.

The only other wear part is the rubber "shock" as they are calling it. It is just a rubber washer/block on the top side that carries the load when the load bottoms the air bag out.

As for making your trailer heavier. Just got to any farm equipment salvage yard. Asked them for some od ball wheel weights that are of low value. A cheap weight I have used for counter balance weights are the rear weights on combines. They are unique and are not very valuable other than scrap.
 
Oliverguy,
I might be a red-neck, because I don't like spending money when I can help it. Been thinking of using what I have, which is some old rusty 4 inch pipe. May fill it with concrete and bolt them under trailer in front of axle.

I added about 300# to tongue. Loaded a tractor yesterday to do some work a few miles away. Had to position tractor back more on trailer, too much tongue weight.

I need to find the right combination of tongue and trailer ballast. I feel 300# on tongue may be all I want. Looking for something safe to bolt in front of axles.
 

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