Wooden ROPS

David G

Well-known Member
I got the first round done on ROPS for MH44, have a structural engineer friend that will run the numbers before I purchase the steel.
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It will do little without diagonal braces at least one third of the distance from the top cross member to the top of the fenders. 45 degrees is good. Heavy wall 2.5 by 4" tubing. Jim
 
That is where my head goes.....

My 6610 has no diagonals and uses 2x5 tubing.

This is revision 1.0.
 
If you look closely at the pictures, you can see the remotes mounted, now to get them hooked in.
 
I agree that having one is best. Using high strength steel (like SAE-4130) and deep penetration TIG welds, as well as gussets, or diagonals near the top, is really prudent. The engineering put into the OEM ROPS, is on their doorstep. Protecting yours is a good idea. Backing the tractor up to a short wall and pulling hard enough to lift the front wheels, and doing the same to the side, is at least prudent. Seatbelts are also required. Jim
 
That's kinda funny.

I presume the metal one won't have the wings on top?

I wouldn't be happy with the loss of tire track adjustment, with the beams outside the fenders, you can't move the wheels in any more. Also in mud and such the mud is going to collect on the beams, probably ok but kind of a drag.

Paul
 
I see you have a boat; did you make a wood anchor for it? You probably could use any 2x4 scraps to make a nice propeller.
 
Here's my 2 cents: Consider cutting the top vertical pieces at an angle which would allow the top horizontal piece to be level with the ground. This will allow you to put on lights, reflective tape and possibly a canopy later. You are smart to do the mock-up first to work out the "kinks"

Larry
 

The axle mounts are critical. There was an image on here years ago where a Grandpa transplanted a factory rops onto another tractor. The Grandson flipped the tractor and the rops held together . However the tractor's read axle housings ripped apart. Closed casket funeral iirc.
 

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