HELP....dip stick tube broke off!

JD Farmer

Member
In my 6410. Do I have to pull the oil pan to get the stub out?? This is crazy, tractor only has 300 hrs. and this is about the dumbest thing I have ever came across. Knew something wasn't right with it, been leaking a little oil around it, and now I know why. Hole is a slip fit for a 3/8" bolt and looks like the stub has about a 3/4" bushing with "O" rings for a seal.
No it did not rust out around it, just a too thin tube. Haven't put the oil back in it yet, and haven't called the parts dept. yet!! GRRRRRRR!
 
Is it possible that the dip stick is still standing vertical in the tube and not laying down in the pan? If it is still in the tube you may be able to fit a magnet or mechanical fingers down into the tube and catch the stick.
 
First thing I can think of may be a slide hammer with a screw type attachment on the end of it like I use to remove old JD carb. nozzles.
Or some sort of screw or self tapping bolt and then vice grips and try pulling or prying it up and out.
GOOD LUCK !
 
If you're saying the ID of the broken tube is a slip fit for a 3/8 bolt, then a 7/16-20 tap should cut some threads into it. Dip the tap in bearing grease to capture the chips, thread the tube enough to get a bolt started, then slide hammer, pry, vice grip, whatever it takes, to pull the piece out.

Possibly the tube got bent during shipping or assembly and cracked it. Or, if the tube is long and unsupported, wants to vibrate, find a way to strap it toward the top to stop the vibration.
 
Well after two tries to the parts and service dept. at my local dealer I still haven't gotten ahold of anyone.....just the dumba$$ recordings.
Glen, the stick came out with the piece of tube.....it's what's left inside the block that has me jacked!!! Further research indicates it's a slip fit deal.
JD Parts shows me buying a new dip stick and tube, according to the dimension they list as either 71mm or 67.5 mm.
I might just make up a 3/8" bolt with an o-ring on it to plug the hole so I can do this later when I have time....like next winter....
Vibration could be the problem....have to see what the new tube is built like, I bet it's heavier wall tubing???
 

Here's the spec's on the 1st tube
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JD doesn't show the spec's on the 2nd tube
 
Weld an appropriate size lag bolt or self tapping bolt to a nut to fit your slide hammer.
 
The old broken "stub" should still be setting in the block. I usually just take a pin punch that I ground at an angle to make it a chisel with a rounded back, and drive it between the thin tube and the block. Then just reach in with needle nose pliers and twist it out. I am pretty sure that the hole in the block has a shoulder in the bottom so the tube can't go all the way through at full size.
 
So I finally got thru to a person at the dealer.....tech says pull the oil pan, and drive it up or down, either way the pan has to come off....But like JD Seller says, I wouldn't doubt it has a lip on the bottom so it can't be driven down thru....how else would they get it set right in the block to measure proper depth for oil?
 

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