smoothing out a yard

If I get a disc and set it straight and not very deep if I make a pass or 2 through my yard then roll it will this work to smooth it out its very bum by when mowing and I don't help by driving tractors through it I tried rolling in the spring and that didn't help any suggestions?

I tried that with my rough lawn 15 years ago,..didn't work...lawn is still rough.
I learned to live with it.

You need to fill in the holes with lose dirt and then smooth it out with a back blade reversed so it won't dig in. I've made a v-shaped self leveling device I can use behind Jubilee. That works the best, still need to have fill dirt. I also have a 5000# 5 ft lawn roller. That will help a little in the spring when the frost leaves and the ground is very soft or after a good rain. Disking won't do much.

I'm a landlord and have 10 rentals. You could say I'm in the landscaping business taking care of tenants drives and landscaping work. A large backhoe and bobcat will leave ruts and do more damage than they do good, so I got a Terramite, T5C. It only weighs 3100# and doesn't leave ruts. I can easily put a 1/4 yard of dirt in front bucket. Makes fast work of filling in ruts that cement trucks or tree trimmer's bucket trucks leaves behind.

I'm also into making dirt form neighbor's horse poo, AG lime, yard waste, mix in a little top soil. Stir up the pile, let it age. Like wine the longer it ages, the better it gets. I'm always in need of free dirt.

A friend needed some fill dirt, so he got some from my mulch pile. He was shoveling the mulch into a hole. He asked his son what are you doing? Son said, I removing the rocks. Dad said, Son those aren't rocks, road apples, and you better not lick your fingers when you are done.

I use my Terramite so much I got a second one, a T5D, so I don't have to trailer mine for one end of the county to the other. They are perfect for doing yard work.

I'll be more optimistic further down, but I intended to do the same thing, but it just turned into a new planting. I thought a pass or two then the double roller cultipacker.

I used an 850 ford, #25 M-F 8' wide disc harrow, set for full cut, opposite of straight, though I started from straight actually. This was back in mid April when it dried up from winter, but had lets say "optimum" moisture. It was not dry and hard. At that point the lawn just started being active, but the soil worked up nicely into a good seedbed. It was dry and drought like for most of May, so I had to wait to seed it down. I did put some 19-19-19 down, or I think thats what it was. I made a final round with the disc, then the chain link fence drag I made with a good size piece of angle iron,(next time I'll use 4" steel pipe), then cultipacker with one pass, broadcast an aggressive contractor seed with some clover in it, final pass with the cultipacker.

When I spread the fertilizer previously, to let it work in prior too, I did it with the same tractor I mow with, and could easily tell it was much smoother.

Fast forward, grass came up, but some sedge, or fluorescent green wide blade low grass took over, (another story, next spring, do over, plant like food plot, but grass with oat cover crop).

That section of lawn is most certainly smoothed out now, but has the wrong thing growing in it. Same darned thing comes up in the corn patch, next planting should do it. Normally I mulch new lawns with rye straw, preferrably late summer, grain germinates and makes a nice spring cover, same as a new hay field I suppose.

Main thing was the ruts and roughness, can't cut as quick, bounces the deck around, have lost a belt from that once, so much nicer to run on now. One thing though, my tillage was in the direction I mostly cut in, long strips, if I were to cut the other way, it is a bit wavy, but with my new tractor I'll be able to drag it off level both ways, my 850 has steering issues, hard to work with but still got it done with decent results. Soil here is clay loam and top soil, well drained though, but still holds moisture awhile too. + lots of rocks, but with the disc, I did not go deep enough to raise more than 1/2 a wheel barrow on 2/3 of an acre I planted. I think it went well on smoothing it out, it was a lot worse before. I took some photos, might be able to post later.

What we need is those triangular rubber tracks like the big CaseIH tractors use!, smoothing out the bumps right under our seat! My 5 acre old farm,pig,cow yard with sagging holes due to many maples removed many years ago, concrete truck tracks, old farm tractor tracks....sigh. My new mower can cut decently way faster than I can hang onto the darn thing. Tried having an acre or two ripped and reseeded but of course the big rains came before the grass got a good start, so now I have dozens of little ditches top to bottom. Leo

It is all but impossible to smooth a yard with grass. To get smooth you need grass free, root free dirt. Once smooth, then seed or sod. If you do not wish to start all over, a wheelbarrow, shovel, rake, dirt & lots of labor may help get close.

I use a back blade and drag horse manure around to fill in the low spots. It's not ideal, but helps- and a lot easier than wiping out the whole lawn to fix it.

I've pondered over this same thing on how to smooth out my lawn. Just this week I've been thinking of getting a tandem load of sand delivered and drag that around to fill in the lower spots. I think that will work better than soil. I tried a load of top soil I got for free and it didn't work.

Now come on. My yard had ruts and such and here is how I fixed it. You need a couple of loads of nice soft dirt. No roots or rocks etc. I used one of those stone rakes on the back of the tractor till I got a pretty nice grade. Take your little garden tractor with a "Lawn" drag to finish. I made one from a really heavy 6x6 foot piece of link fence. You will need to bolt a piece of very heavy angle iron or a 4x4 piece of post to the wire to keep it nice and straight. Also add a little weight like a couple of cement blocks near the end of the drag. The heavy galvanized wire type of fence. If you go back and forth, round and round enough it will be as smooth as silk.

Thanks everyone looks like I need to haul some dirt

Our back field was torn up from dragging logs etc. Took a disk and did just that chewed it up and smoothed it up and whatever grass and weeds came back fine. Don't know about it for a nice yard though ? Might just have to rototill it and reseed it.

Rent a box scraper, it is what landscapers use. Disc it first to break up the grass, then box scrape it, then disc it again. The box scraper will get soil from areas you are working and move it to were you need it and make everything level. I considered trucking in loads of dirt too, but the cost was crazy like $150 per load and I needed 5 loads. Box scraper did it all much cheaper for just $100.

I smoothed my lightly rough lawn by rolling with a heavy roller, 6000 pounds over a five foot width. Couldn't hardly tell a difference till I had rolled it every spring for three years or so. Now after ten years it is smooth as a baby's butt. This does not work for deep ruts, they have to be filled in first, then rolled. If the lawn is to be torn up, leveled and reseeded the best way, though it is a long drug out process is to kill it with Roundup in the spring, let it lay dead till August when you work it down till the soil is fine powder, then seed in early September and pray for rain. This works in Northwest Iowa, don't know how it would work in your area. If no rain in the fall, a half stand will come up next spring. It is a little bit of a gamble.