Loaded Tire ?

Billy NY · Jun 26, 2015

What is the deal with a CACL loaded tire valve stem that is leaking at the valve cap? Last time I tried to change a valve core on one that leaked awhile, the tube just let go at the valve, and all the fluid came out. Tube was done. Is that typical of CACL leaks, valve stem on tube will let go and that's it ? The ones I am concerned about most likely have been weeping a long time at the valve core and through the caps, maybe a few years.

If so, best to be prepared for the full repair as I know from the past, don't want to open the can of worms unexpectedly.

I've never really had any trouble with CACL loaded tires, just keep tabs on them, and replace valve cores periodically, clean up carefully when done. I'm a bit more careful about punctures, sapling stubs, or similar. I would consider alternate ballast, but it does seem CACL is really no issue unless you ignore a leak.

I may need to source rims for 14.9-28 tires which are good. They are on 4 double loop rims with square centers. Its a Ford 4630 with fwd. I can't say for sure what they are like until broken down.

What is the actual correct rim size for a 14.9-28 tire? I know that you have 1" range, ie; 14.9-28 will work on a 12x28 rim, so I assume the oem rim would be 13x28?

Can't believe the previous owner let this go, actually was the first owner, as it sat and did not see much use with the 2nd owner. Nice mechanically sound low hour tractor too, one that I want to restore to factory condition aesthetically. As I look at it, "some people really should not own tractors" given the minor repairs this one will need to accomplish the previous LOL. More so the rims, hard to figure why someone would just ignore leaks.

hd6gtom · Jun 26, 2015

Billy they make stainless steel valve cores for tires with fluid in them. When replacing the or working on a tire with fluid in it, jack up the side you are working on and put the stem at the top. That will reduce the possiabiliy of you loosing all your fluid. as to your question about the fluid destroying a valve stem on a tube--it can happen-- usually is caused by someone catching the stem on something and weakening it. but it is not a common thing to happen. Most of the time the fluid will eat into the core housing and or outside threads of the tube causing it to be difficult or impossiable to attach the fluid pumping hose to the stem.

Bob Bancroft · Jun 26, 2015

Yes, 13" is the proper width rim for a 14.9 tire. I have been able to buy 13" power shift rims. I have a "new" tractor here -a NH TT60A, and doggone it, it has 14.9 tires on 12" rims, right from the factory!

buickanddeere · Jun 26, 2015

CACL is a powerful alkaline and will eventually corrode through or crust up with deposites everything it touches.
Best way to avoid problems is to eliminate the offender instead of trying to cope and deal with the offending material.

old · Jun 26, 2015

Yep they can be fun to mess with at times. I have found if your removing the valve core if you take a pair of pliers and hold on the the core housing that helps keep you from ripping the whole part off the tube.

Billy NY · Jun 26, 2015

Right, I've done that before, stem at 12 o'clock, jack under the axle. You'll get a quick spritz as you remove and replace the core, then just clean up thoroughly, that's it.

I get my valve cores from Napa, for ag tires, assume those to be stainless, but will have to look at the 2 spares I have now.

My concern is the caps on these are tight, can't budge them by hand, fool with it and I'm going to have to deal with it immediately, or can I replace them and stop the leak, hard to say what way it will go. Safer to leave alone until its time, so maybe I'd best hustle out what work I have, make time for this repair. Sure wish I had a pair of new rims added to the finance deal on this one to be done with it, hate delaying a repair like this, the rims show what happens when you do!

Billy NY · Jun 26, 2015

I would tend to agree, I think wheel weights would suffice, or an alternate ballast, though I may not need loaded tires for most work, I do have hills here. I have used CACL loaded tires with relatively no issues, nor any rust like is on these rims, someone just got lazy with this tractor is all, can't be that way with CACL.

I know your position on CACL, all too well.... LOL ! So you get the most weight per liquid ballast, its positioned or orientated to the tractor to provide good benefit from having ballast, not expensive, but you must take care of repairs immediately, though you have a little time, that stuff is nasty when let go.

This does stir a debate here at times, but its a good one, but many differing opinions as we have seen over the years. Friend just had tires loaded with an alternate fluid, will have to see what they used, RV antifreeze or window washer fluid, is all I can think of besides CACL for cold climates.

Mike M · Jun 26, 2015

The ones I have use a 2 part valve stem. I usually have to remove the whole stem and replace it and not just the inner core. Guess I'm not getting what you are trying to explain ? I had one once that the metal part in the tube where the stem o-ring seals was pitted and would not seal. I cleaned it up and dried it out and put silicone sealer on it and put a new stem in and it held for years that way.
Don't know about stainless steel ones either ? all of mine are brass.

Billy NY · Jun 26, 2015

Thats interesting they are like that. New oem rims are not exactly cheap, maybe I can find oem salvage. Bugs me as I can't say for sure if these are shot, if cut and patch is feasible if the rust has thinned the steel to where it needs to be cut out. I've tapped a hammer on concerned areas, seems solid, so maybe they can be cleaned up and not be too thin. Worst case is they'll show patches, as the one side will have a raise weld profile, inside will be smooth.

Billy NY · Jun 26, 2015

Yes, and I think I've experienced what you describe, can be a crap shoot.

Mike M · Jun 26, 2015

Ohio thinks CACL is GREAT ! They spray it all over the roads in the winter ! You know how it eats up rims now just imagine what it does to a pick up !

Robert Major · Jun 26, 2015

Hi
I guess most guys let them go as they can't be bothered to deal with the mess of fixing them. Tire shops are getting to the point they want nothing to do with them. I run a farm repair shop here, plus farm, I repair my own fluid tires as the tire shop wants $450 to come out and do them. The only part of a customer tractor I won't service is tire pressures on fluid filled. The reason being if I pull the cap and the valve or cores messed up that is then my problem in the customers eyes. If he pulls the cap and gets an eye full he pays the tire shop repair bill, or I don't have to fix it myself for free.

Billy NY · Jun 26, 2015

You are correct, it should be as you describe, like when you load the tire its taken off, so you can get the max volume of fluid in with the bleeder valve. I think that is the situation too, just getting those apart and what you end up with, leaks, damage, it fails or what? I have a spare set, have to find them as I cleaned my car at one point, went on a parts run and the darned things should be in the box of junk I stored.

Glad you mentioned the 2 part, thats what I was getting at, but did not recall LOL ! Have not broke a tire down in 7 years, kind of a good thing actually LOL !

Billy NY · Jun 26, 2015

I would agree with that practice, learned that myself, but the repair was not too bad on that one that let loose, inconvenient is all. Had I the rims and tubes on hand for this one, I'd just go for it now and be done with it.

Traditional Farmer · Jun 26, 2015

Having CaCl in a rim is like fooling with a Rattlesnake sooner or later it'll
get you.

old · Jun 26, 2015

That is also the reason I have switched form the CACL to winter grade wiper fluid. Not as heavy but close enough to do the same thing but not cause the rusted rims

dpendzic · Jun 26, 2015

I have repaired two rims now that corroded thru around the valve stem--cut out the corroded metal and welded in a patch
drill new valve stem hole 180 degrees away. I have switched to used automotive anti-freeze--my local garage gave it to me free just to get rid of it.

glennster · Jun 26, 2015

i put a good size goober of silicone grease (plumbers silicone grease works well) on all the threads and pull the stem and add a little there before assembly. seems to work good. havent had a leaker in quite a while.

Billy NY · Jun 26, 2015

That is going to be a consideration, have to look on the chart to see how much it will take, see what it costs. CACL is not as cheap as it once was per bag last time I checked anyways and windshield washer fluid should be close enough in weight for my purposes. Also, you're not under the gun, or have a slowly ticking time bomb with the rims, if in fact you do get a leak, or a puncture. Thats worth the price of admission.

Well I guess I'll have to see about tubes for these tires as soon as I can, then see if the valve will cooperate to stop the leak, to be safe and if I have to go all the way. Worst case I'll just have to re-tube, then see what the rims are like. Kills me to look at it as is. Tire guy mislead me once about a leak on a valve, never used them again, found another guy, hired him one time, learned what he did, then did my own since. Given what it took for me to pull this deal off to get it, I'm tractor rich, but pocket poor with the fixed income and budget LOL !

old · Jun 26, 2015

I understand the fixed income problem since I too have that problem and it is a low income to boot. I catch wiper fluid on sale for close to a buck a gal and that helps. What size tires are you messing with I may have the info on how many gal they would take. I do my own tires and also fill them sometimes with fluid my self. But I did work at a tire shop some 30 plus years ago so learned how to do tires including split rims

Billy NY · Jun 26, 2015

14.9-28's, that's not bad if the chart calls for 50-75 gallons. CACL flake I think could be more than that now for what is called for. Wonder if you can get it in bulk vs the gallon containers?

I had been hopeful to get back to work in my field and do a little better, but I'm thankful for what I have to get by just the same. Like anyone else, I try to do the best I can with a buck LOL ! I keep applying for jobs suited to my background, get told I have a great resume, so why is it I am not working LOL ! I don't sweat it anymore, I get close, like in the top 4, then cut....

My F600 had split rims, I had them swapped out as no one would work on these, well there is one guy, but you can't get those size tires anymore either. 10.00-20's on it now.

old · Jun 26, 2015

I have 3 plus trucks with the old split rims on them. My 1963 Diamond-T had them but I switch it over to the 22.5 tires and tubeless. My chart only goes to the 12X28 tires which would be now day number of 13.6X28 and it calls for 38 gal. I also have a lot of old tires laying around like the 7:50X20s etc.

Billy NY · Jun 26, 2015

I had to do that to one rim, that was the one the tire guy mislead me about,shame on me for not knowing at the time, but I was out of town working just the same. The stem/valve just came apart, so I took the tire off, repaired the rim, cleaned and painted the inside with cold galv spray, the old hole was corroded just a bit too much, so I welded that, ground the interior smooth, drilled a new hole, could have made flat spot too, but did not think of it for some reason. That one has done 7 years of service, new tube, and CACL loaded again. This one has done a lot of work since.

The holes on these rims look fine, I think the darned cores are leaking past the caps and its dropped down onto the rim. Looks like it sat like that, as there is one worse area on each rim. Previous owner said it was like that since he got it 200 hours before I did, but I think both owners missed or ignored it. Worst case I've got to weld a patch into the middle, flat plate but rounded to match, be nice to not have a weld profile visible on the exterior, but assume once welded fully in place, done right you could grind both sides down and have a solid rim that you can't tell was repaired ?

I'm just concerned with thickness of metal, maybe there's enough left to clean off the rust and repaint without having to go any further. its just the one area on each one that flaked up.

casenut1 · Jun 26, 2015

CACL is a great weed killer.

mtny · Jun 27, 2015

Both my tractors were loaded when bought , changed a valve core or two . One wouldn't quit so I put Teflon tape on it and screwed the cap on . Been ok since but eventually a permanent fix will be needed.

showcrop · Jun 27, 2015

CaCl can't corrode a rim on its own. It needs some help from the owner.

hd6gtom · Jun 27, 2015

Billy another thing we always did, when replacing valve caps or the nuts that hold the valve stem tight to the rim--If the tire had fluid in it we always used Plastic caps and Plastic stem nuts when putting them back together. The only place where I like plastic over metal when working on tires.

Bill(Wis) · Jun 27, 2015

"Rim Guard" has been used in place of CaCl for years. Non-toxic, non-corrosive, biodegradable, weighs 11 pounds per gallon, will not solidify until -50F, costs $.28 per gallon, can be put in tubeless tires and, in fact, you can feed it to your livestock.

old · Jun 27, 2015

Or a thorn or a nail or anything that puts a hole in a tube

Billy NY · Jun 28, 2015

I'll be looking into that, think I'll get the tubes on hand first, then fool with the valves, be prepared to catch the CACL if it does let loose.

old · Jun 28, 2015

Not long ago I drained 2 15.4X38 tire so I could remove them from the Farmall 656 I was working on. I use a simple drill pump and tape the trigger and also tape it to a board so I can just sit back and watch and when I need I just pull the plug to shut it off. Seem that water with CACL in it tends to make a drill a bit unsafe to handle if it gets any of that mix on it.

old · Jun 28, 2015

I have never been able to find rim-guard in my area.

Loaded Tire ?

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