ford 9n no oil pressure

splitter

New User
So I rebuilt the engine. New rings,con rod bearings, carb, electric system and gauges. This will be the 8th time dropping the oil pan so I'm really hoping to avoid it. As it goes I had the tractor running for about 3-4 hours 3 weeks ago. I had relatively low oil pressure 10-15 lbs hot. This tractor sat for roughly 35 years outside. I put a new oil gauge and a new oil puck up line because the old one was loose. I also took the pump off for inspection but all gears were tight so I put it back on. Now I have no oil pressure at all. Disconnected lines and took out filter and still nothing. Any ideas to fix?
 
Did you pack the gears in the pump with thick oil or grease before you put it back together??? If you didn't then that is where you problem is and you need to prime to oil pump.
 
splitter........theres a BIG spring loaded NUT behind the waterpump pulley. Carefully remove the BIG NUT and with a "pumping" oil squirter, re-prime yer oilpump with THICK HEAVY OIL, typically 90wt. Gotter due it FAST, otherwize the oil prime will leak past the gears. ........oily Dell
 
Pull the oil pump and prime it in a clean container of oil. Then reinstall the pump, oil pan and engine oil. Hal
 
The big spring loaded nut Dell is speaking of, is the relief valve, if you didn't have the block boiled out and all the passages clean, the pump may have forced a bunch of curd behind that valve. Or the spring may have rusted away, as well as old gunk could be blocking other oil passages.
 
One of my co-worker's had a 1962 Ford and his idiot light came on and the hydraulic valves started to get noisy.
We pushed the car into the garage and installed a pressure gauge, still no pressure. He took leave the next day and dropped the pan and oil pump. He found the relief valve on the pump was open. He called me at work to get a new pump. After I had eaten supper I went over to help him install the new pump. He only had a short distance to work and probably didn't get the engine hot causing the sludge. Hal
 
I didn't see new main bearings mentioned?
Camshaft "is what it is" at this point.

For OP to drop even worse after inspection sounds like lack
of prime to me assuming it was reassembled correctly.
Try pulling the relief plug, cleaning and priming.

I also would not run it with no oil pressure.
At best (worst?) spin it with a 12V battery, key off and
watch for oil pressure to build.

These old Ford tractors with the L-heads were different
from other tractors/cars/trucks.
The oil pump is part of the front main bearing cap.

If you get it back to 10-15 lbs hot without new mains and
nothing done to the camshaft, you may be as good as
you're going to get. What is the OP cold?
 

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