finally getting rearend fluid changed ?

this winter some of you nice gents helped me diagnose that my farmall H may need the fluids in the rear end changed do to it having little water in it and the tractor stalling after starting if clutch was let out. Finally getting this done, I hope. But a local farmall person brought up an idea that I hadn't thought of. Want to run it past you all and get opinions as to whether it is better idea or not for changing fluids. He said instead of taking the top plate off the tractor and dipping into it that it may be easier to unbolt the 3 bolts (I think he said) and pull the pto and go through that to remove fluids. What do you all think. Seems to me I would be limited to only reaching so far in. That would only matter if there was sludge, of which Im not sure. Could I use a drill powered pump to remove fluid and then reach in to check for sludge material if I did the job this way? Thanks in advance for your input.
 
When I restored my JD D the transmission oil was relatively clean and had no water in it, but it was very badly aged. Except for when gears actually ran thru it was the consistency of road tar. I used an old lathe coolant pump in a pail under the drain hole, then filled the pail with kerosene. The hose from the coolant pump was adjusted to flow kerosene over various parts of the transmission. I ran the pump 24-7 and moved the hose every couple of days. Eventually it cleaned everything, flushed the old tarry stuff off. I've been using the tractor for 26 years without problems. You do have t o have access to the top of the transmission to use this method, but it sure was easier than hand washing everything.
 
I drained old crummy stuff out and filled with diesel. Had the girl friend drive it around for an hour then let it drain for a couple days. I later used the fuel in a heater. The hytran that filled the trans with hasn't changed colour, I guess I got it clean.
 
Yes it might work. It should be easy to remove that big rear plug too, I thhink, so you may want to do that also.
 
I have pulled the PTO to help drain the tranny on several H's. I first pull the drain plug and get what I can that way. Heat lamps work great to warm the fluid a bit. I will then pull the PTO and scoop out as much as I can by hand. I have even made a few home made scoops to help. I till then pull the belt pulley gear box and squirt diesel on as much of the tranny as I can get to. Seems to work for me, because all of the changed fluids look good every time I check them. MAKE SURE you have plenty of containers and catch buckets before you start. I did my M expecting 12 gallons of old stuff, but got 16 to my surprise. I was really scurrying to find enough containers.....
 
when I took the plug out earlier this year hoping to remove water fluids seem to be quite sludgy and didn't want to just run out.
 
Afore I read into thaet thread, I thunked someone was a gittin one of them thar enemies......
 
(quoted from post at 19:42:04 05/31/15) when I took the plug out earlier this year hoping to remove water fluids seem to be quite sludgy and didn't want to just run out.

But that was January... its a little warmer now, the oil will come out. You might have to poke up the drian hole with a screwdriver but the oil will come out. Worry about removing the PTO later, IF its a problem (it wont be).

Listen to Paul from MI, use a pump. You can go back up the drain hole and in the fill and check holes with copper or aluminum tubing bent into the shape you need to hit different areas.
 
Id do it like someone mentioned drain what you can, fill it with kerosene, drive it around a little, let it set and soak, then drain it, but don't fill it with HyTran, It requires gear oil.
 

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