JD 4440 electrical help.

notjustair

Well-known Member
Did the 4440 come with a two wire Delco alternator or three? I'm talking about the plug, not the battery terminal on the back of it as well.

The alternator on the 4440 went out. I took it to my guy and he exchanged it. I put the new one on and it has a parasitic draw on the electrical. I made him give me another new one as I thought maybe a diode was bad. Still the same. The tractor has a two wire plug on it. The alternators he gave me have three spade connections together. Now I can't remember what the old one looked like. Before I drive back to town to see if I can look at the old one I thought maybe someone knew. I called Deere and all of their 25 year old techs are still looking through the wiring diagrams trying to figure it out. I wouldn't be wondering but the wiring running to the alternator has a spot that has electrical tape on it so there has been something go on there.
 
They came with a 2 wire in the clip, you can go with a self exciting one with just the big wire on the back,,you may have some thing else drawing it down,,process of elimination is one way of dealing with it...
 
Ignore the third "tab". It is a direct connection to one of the stator "phases" to drive a tach, basically an internal jumper wire.

Alice Chompers was good for using those.

The two wire connector will plug in as it does in the two wire units and no harm will be done by the tab being unused.

The unused third tab is definitely NOT the cause of your battery drain and the other two tabs, which stick out of the VR, function exactly the same as if it only had those two tabs.
 
4440 would have only 2 regulator wires, just ignore #3 as Bob says.

Is the regulator plug in good condition, no wires pull out of it ?

Most common problem with a power draw is that the #1 and #2 regulator wires are switched in position or shorted together.

On a 4450 I owned, the alternator harness above the alternator, rubbed on the fuel return line until the #1 and #2 wires shorted together and would run the battery down over time.
If the alternator plug is weather rotted junk, new ones are available at the dealer or most any auto parts store for about $3.
 
Well rats. I was hoping that was it. I have completely removed the fuse panel and still had the draw. The only thing that removes it is pulling that alternator plug. The alternator charges fine, but draws down the batteries within a few days.
 
"Well rats. I was hoping that was it. I have completely removed the fuse panel and still had the draw. The only thing that removes it is pulling that alternator plug. The alternator charges fine, but draws down the batteries within a few days."


If you have a 12V test light, ground the clamp and touch the probe to the terminals inside the regulator plug,
#1 should light only when the ignition switch is on.

#2 is 12V hot any time the battery is connected.
If the alt plug checks out, then the problem has to be inside the alternator.

A common cause of this is a bad or missing regulator plug where the #1 and#2 wires are reversed on the regulator blades.
#2 wire on the #1 regulator blade will keep the alternator field powered at about a 3 amp drain. This will usually kill the batteries in 24-48 hours.
 
What do you mean by "parasitic draw on the electrical"?

If you're trying to use the old method of measuring voltage between the battery post and its disconnected cable, that's not going to work with an internally-regulated alternator, particularly not if you're using a digital multimeter.
 
I don't know the first foggiest thing eletrical, but I installed a main disconnect switch at my tractor battery, the big red-handle kind you see on Nascar. It stops any and all after-hours battery draw, stops little kids from ever starting the old man's tractor.
 

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