Stuck 656 GAS

DPS756

New User
I have been reading a lot on this site and have never posted before. I really enjoy the pictures and stories that are posted. Now I have an issue, a friend recently acquired a 656 gas. The tractor ran a year ago but sat out side with out a rain cap on the muffler and is now stuck. Pulled the plugs and have been soaking in ATF for the last month but that does not seem to be working. Is there any concoction that you all may know of that might help get this unstuck? Tried giving her a little pull last night to see if it might have loosened up but no luck. Did not want to try this too much and cause even more damage. Any help that you all may have would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
 
Sounds suspicious that it's stuck that hard from sitting for just one year. I'm working on a 1030 case that was sold to me with the same story. I hope your friend's is closer to the story than mine was.
 
I don't know - you'll get a lot of opinions on freeing a stuck engine here, but I'm of the opinion that if you can't unstick it with some casual attempts, it's best to just pull the head. I think you're wise to fear causing more damage - if all 6 cylinders don't want to move, that puts a lot of stress on what's trying to move them.

I know it's a lot of work and head gaskets aren't cheap - but I like to see what's going on in there.

You could have two inches of water in a cylinder with your atf floating on top of it, keeping it from evaporating! Waiting months for it to work only makes the problem worse.

Pull the head - use a hone to knock out the visible rust- dry everything out - add the atf, let it sit - then start knocking individual pistons with a hammer and block of wood.
 
Around here a year without a exhaust cover would rust an engine up bad. A tractor we bought had a cylinder filled with water that froze and broke
a sleeve. I would pull the head or find a tiny camera to look inside the cylinder. If it is stuck this bad I see more damage by forcing the pistons to move across rust. My $.02 worth.
Jay
 
I agree. If they don't come "unstuck" easy then you should pull the head to see what you are dealing with. I'm not a big fan of this anyway, if the engine has enough internal rust to seize the pistons imagine what everything from the valves to the rings are like.
 
I have seen bent rods from pulling 1 with pistons stuck, might as well pull her down and get ready for new sleeves, rings, and pistons.
 
Might try pulling the valve cover off. Sometimes the water causes the valves to rust in place. Bought a Case RC, engine would not turn over, sounded like it was hitting metal. An exhaust valve was stuck, lubed and got it moving and now the engine turns freely. Good luck. Bill
 
Ah but did you make sure NONE of the cylinders had water in them??? If so much as one has water in it the ATF will do nothing to help till you get ALL the water out. One like that you stand a very small chance ATF will help it. Ya if you can get all the cylinder clear of any water ATF may do it but may take a month or more and you have to keep adding it to both the spark plug holes and also the exhaust
 
There are 1000 potions, elixirs, and concoctions for unsticking engines. None of them are 100% effective.

Outside with no cover on the exhaust, it's a lost cause. Nothing liquid is going to free it up. Get out the wrenches, or junk the tractor.
 
That's what I was kind of thinking.... Won't a gear drive 656 with a TA not roll over in direct drive anyway? I'm probably wrong, but I thought you weren't supposed to try to pull start a tractor with a TA. I know thats most likely not the problem, just wondering.

Ross
 
It will roll over in direct, but not in TA.

Never heard such a thing about pull starting mechanical TA tractors. Hydraulic TA tractors it's not possible.
 
The sprag clutch in a TA that lets mechanical TA tractors free wheel down hills in low TA would also free wheel when trying to pull start in low TA.
 
Get all the water out of the cylinders, soak in what ever you like the most. PB Blaster works for me, others maybe better, take a small air hammer and run it across the block. You just want a little vibration to help get the juice around the pistons. If you can heat the block using a block heater. take the valve cover off to make sure you don't have a stuck valve too. This will prevent bending a push rod. Air hammer works good here after soaking valve stem. This will take time. when you notice that the juice level is going down, your close. Jack up one rear tire but in highest gear and rock it back and forth. Mark pulleys to see if you are actually moving engine, not just taking up slack in transmission. This worked for me with a tractor that sat for 15 years outside.
 

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