ok boys put on your thinking caps-- 35 chevy likes to throw out its water when at an idle -- speed it up and go down the road it holds its water-- stop at the yard and out it comes - checked the water pump( OK) thermostat (new) radiator flow (real good) if it was a head (OR) gasket it would seem to be worse at more speed -- any thoughts?
- Thread starter roy prins
- Start date
BushogPapa
Well-known Member
Should be OK with the upper radiator tank 1/2 full cold...
Never had any problem with my 38 Coupe (except it used oil)...
Ron.
Air flow seems to be the obvious cause. So, have there been any changes such as the fan, fan speed at idle, lose belt, dirty radiator, different grill, etc. ??? Of course you know that most any engine will run hotter sitting at idle rather than on the move and pulling more air through. It takes air flow as well as the coolant to keep one from boiling over. My 2c
Janicholson
Well-known Member
Trapped air in the block can cause the issue. The trapped air can compress at higher engine speeds, then that area gets hot as well. When at idle, the circulation pressure is gone and the heated steam bubbles up and out.
Using a remote temp gun (cheap) can locate the hot spots. A system flush with vinegar is also good to remove scale buildup and rust. Jim
Using a remote temp gun (cheap) can locate the hot spots. A system flush with vinegar is also good to remove scale buildup and rust. Jim
Lou from Wi.
Well-known Member
You might want to check the radiator cap, it might be weak or have a bad seal.
I've owned 3, but one was a 36 Coupe, 36 Sedan, and a 37 Sedan, both Sedans were 2 door,just like the Coupe. All good cars, beats whats selling today for new IMHO.They were easily restored including the grill which could be sent out to a re-plating outfit and look good as new, try that with todays vehicle grills (plastic schtuff) just like our 92 Ford.
HTH,
LOU
I've owned 3, but one was a 36 Coupe, 36 Sedan, and a 37 Sedan, both Sedans were 2 door,just like the Coupe. All good cars, beats whats selling today for new IMHO.They were easily restored including the grill which could be sent out to a re-plating outfit and look good as new, try that with todays vehicle grills (plastic schtuff) just like our 92 Ford.
HTH,
LOU
MarkB_MI
Well-known Member
- Location
- Motown USA
Blowing water at idle is a symptom of a blown head gasket. Assuming you have a thermostat, it will blow water as long as the thermostat is closed.
BushogPapa
Well-known Member
Steam is the give-away..time to work on the radiator and/or take some freeze-plugs out and flush the block too..
Ron..
dr sportster
Well-known Member
What no pictures !
irst thing I always do is put my hand on the center of the radiator core to see if it's hot, if it is the radiator is fine. If it's cold, the radiator is plugged. Someone mentioned the radiator cap, not an issue on a 35 model. The system is not pressurized. You could run it without a cap and it shouldn't spit water out. Another thing to keep in mind is you don't fill these radiators all the way full like you do with more modern cars for this very reason. Most of the old stuff I have run with the water level down where you can't see it through the radiator fill hole. Check the radiator with your hand first, if that's ok fil it and drive it till its hot and shut it off and let it puke water out. Then go drive it again and see if it starts to overheat. If not then its fine and don't add anymore water.
ObsoElitist
Member
Does the engine have an internal warter distribution tube behind the waterpump? My six cyl 1936 Graham and 1943 IHC weapons carrier had them. When they rot they allow the rear cyls to overheat, mostly at low flow situations like idleing or lugging up a steep grade.
Overfilling a zero pressure system usually shows at speed. I use a non-contact infrared thermometer to check radiators for cold, plugged tubes and temp change from top to bottom. They used to be quite expensive but they are cheap now. Also handy for things like finding hot bearings on machines, wheel bearings, etc.
Overfilling a zero pressure system usually shows at speed. I use a non-contact infrared thermometer to check radiators for cold, plugged tubes and temp change from top to bottom. They used to be quite expensive but they are cheap now. Also handy for things like finding hot bearings on machines, wheel bearings, etc.
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