NC Wayne

Hey-NC Wayne-did you get that ford truck running yet-you posted awhile back?Mark

I've been meaning to post, but kept forgetting. Yes, I finally got it running. It wound up being the high pressure fuel pump. The old one had been building pressure, but I guess it just wasn't quite enough. I replaced it and she fired right up. I've been driving it for about a week now and so far no more problems.

Good to know-always like to hear the solutions!Mark

(quoted from post at 19:09:02 03/25/15) I've been meaning to post, but kept forgetting. Yes, I finally got it running. It wound up being the high pressure fuel pump. The old one had been building pressure, but I guess it just wasn't quite enough. I replaced it and she fired right up. I've been driving it for about a week now and so far no more problems.

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Tell the truth it was not that bad to work on was it... I have replaced allot of fuel tanks on those in the last few years there time has come... That fine rust/dust eats the pumps up They are tanks you do not overlook if you have to do a tank pump look at the sides and the underside of the top of the tank...

Years ago when pumps were mechanical they could survive this issue but electric pumps can not... I had one yesterday that if luck had not been on my side I would have worked on it till ell froze over because of the possible issues this issue was only after it ran a hour and progressively got worst... It finally stalled out and would not restart after checking spark and cranking vacuum (I already had a fuel pressure gauge and vacuum gauge taped to the windshield and had drove it for a hour) I installed a noid light on the one injector I could get to... As luck would have it, it fired right up (WTF) noid light blinking so while it was running I put the connector back on the injector as soon as I pushed the connector on the engine stalled and would not start till I removed the connector... Every time I installed the connector it stalled (WTF)... I checked the resistances of the injector it had shorted out NOW how lucky can you be for it to be the only injector you can get to and check EZ...

The fuel pump wasn't that bad. Now, I also borrowed my FIL's scan tool, and it's actually throwing a couple of codes. Thing is I'm going to have to find an OEM manual to be able to work on anything else on it. Chiltons has a list and it says any codes not on their list are things that, basically, need to be taken to a dealership to take care of. I've found the codes online, but depending on the site as to what each code represents. Further I've found absolutely nothing in regards to what to look for when those particular codes are present. So, again, more money for a manual to repair something electronic that need not be on there in the first place.

Personally I'll take a pre-electronic vehicle any day of the week. Heck, my '55 wagon, with a 283, decent cam, solid lifters, and a Holley spread bore, backed by a 4 speed with I believe it was 3.53 gears, got better than 23 miles to the gallon on the highway, and didn't do too bad around town either as long as I kept the mechanical secondaries closed. However when I did decide to stomp it, and the secondaries opened, she would run like a scalded ape. As far as emissions, my '78 Jeep J-10 has a 360 AMC in it. Yes, it drinks the gas, but the last time it was inspected, which was about 10 years ago given the way NC has done things, the guy told me the sniffer results were as good, and even better, in some cases than some of the newer care he had come in. A dealership told me years ago that this weas due mainly to the newer cars being so expensive to repair, between parts and shop/dealership labor costs, that people would run them until they were nearly dead before doing anything, where as with the older cars, anybody with even a little mechanical ability could easily tune them up in their garage with a few hand tools and a Chiltons or Hayes book.

To that end, my plan right now is to get rid of the '88 Camaro I've got (that doesn't get driven), along with my '87 pickup, and find an older, thinking early 70's, dually that will do everything I want to do. Personally I'd rather spend an extra $200 a year on fuel and have a vehicle I can actually work on and repair economically, as I had to spend a few thousand on a scan tool and the related software, pull my hair out looking for an electronic/sensor related problem even with said tool, and then spend an arm and a leg for the parts to repair it when the problem is eventually found.

And I can say all of this based on personal experience, the experiences of friends in the business, as well as talking to my FIL who was a dealership mechanic for a lot of years. He said it's been to the point for years that many vehicles have to have an OEM part to replace even something as common as an 02 sensor, so they have to be bought at the dealer to even work right.(((in one case he recalled $300 plus for two of them -vs- $60 for the 'name brand' ones available at the parts house)))) Personally I like getting my parts a bit cheaper, and knowing they will still work, -vs- paying three times too much for a part that was made just enough 'off' by the OEM so they can get a larger share of your hard earned money when repair time comes.

But that's just me...........

There is not a good manual for diagnostics for your 87 it does not exist and never did... That is unless you want to marry a OHM meter that will have you chasing your tail till the end of time... I bet the injuneers are still get'n off on all the endless trails that put in there diagnostic flow charts...

KOEO ) key on engine off fix first
KOER ) key on engine running fix second

Not all the codes they throw are priority... :wink:

Your 87 is as basic as it gets if you don't want to learn about it I understand... 8)