Robert in Md
Member
Friend called tonight to ask the above question and I have forgot. Which is more weather resistant white or red oak for a trailer floor?
Thanks Robert in MD
Thanks Robert in MD
- Thread starter Robert in Md
- Start date
NW Ohio Tim
Member
White oak is what you want. Red oak is not suitable for outdoor use at all.
I'm sure someone will come along shortly and tell you I don't know what I'm talking about........ they will be the new expert.
Tim
I'm sure someone will come along shortly and tell you I don't know what I'm talking about........ they will be the new expert.
Tim
Steve@Advance
Well-known Member
White oak is typically what is used for trailer floors. Not so much for weather resistance, but for strength. Unless he's hauling some really heavy equipment or driving a forklift on the trailer, might be able to use treated lumber. Cheaper and last longer than oak.
jon f mn
Well-known Member
I use white oak when I have it or else just regular pine. I never use treated if I can help it because for me it always lasted less and was more trouble than regular untreated. The best treatment for a trailer floor whether it's pine or oak is used motor oil painted on every summer on a hot dry day.
Pete in MD
Well-known Member
- Location
- Central Maryland
White oak has closed cells and holds up to weather.
Red oak has open cells and doesn't hold up to weather anywhere near as long as white oak.
Red oak has open cells and doesn't hold up to weather anywhere near as long as white oak.
MarkB_MI
Well-known Member
- Location
- Motown USA
White oak, if you can get it.
Red Oak is the furniture wood, white oak the building wood. WO will last a lot longer if it's well dried before application and then treated with something to preserve it. Red oak on a deck might last 4-5 years. I'm still using a trailer my Dad built out of WO in 1965 and it's never been inside or out of the weather a day in it's life.
caterpillar guy
Well-known Member
White oak will last longer. If you want floor strength that is determined by the distance between the cross members.
A lot of dealers to sel trailers cheaper will opt for cross members on 16or 24 inch centers. If they are closer like 12 inch centers the floor is stronger. The trailer will weight more and cost more. For my money it is worth it though. After all you can only put so much weight on a span before it goes through.
A lot of dealers to sel trailers cheaper will opt for cross members on 16or 24 inch centers. If they are closer like 12 inch centers the floor is stronger. The trailer will weight more and cost more. For my money it is worth it though. After all you can only put so much weight on a span before it goes through.
Check out a wood called apitong. It's used on semi trailers, flat bed rail cars, many other uses that are outside in the weather 24/7/365. It's 30 to 50% stronger than white oak. Stronger so you can use thinner wood for the floor so trailer is lighter, more payload, less fuel used to pull trailer.
Texasmark1
Well-known Member
I used treated wood from Home Depot. I replaced the untreated pine OEM floor in my 16' tandem utility trailer with treated pine when the OEM floor started showing signs of rotting.
That was over 25 years ago and that floor is still in fine shape, no rot, no soft spots and the trailer sits out in the weather. Other thing I did was to use 2x6 lumber rather than the 2x10 OEM boards as the treated wood was much cheaper in the 2x6 size.
Mark
That was over 25 years ago and that floor is still in fine shape, no rot, no soft spots and the trailer sits out in the weather. Other thing I did was to use 2x6 lumber rather than the 2x10 OEM boards as the treated wood was much cheaper in the 2x6 size.
Mark
rustyfarmall
Well-known Member
I would not use either one. I would go to a lumber yard and buy pressure treated lumber. I would also soak it down good with used motor oil at least once per year. If you do that, it will last a lifetime.
The standard treated you could get at any lumber yard 25 years ago was worlds ahead ofet now at Lowes what you can get now. You'll need to get the stuff that's approved for ground contact- usually special order. THe standard "treated" wood you get now at Lowes/HD is not approved for ground contact, which makes zero sense to me, but it's lots safer for people who like to chew on wood.....
WHITE oak is hands down. On the farm we used it on wagon decks. Red oak trees that are at the end of life and you cut them down; if water got in they are a giant sponge inside! White oak just rots from the outside not inside like red. There is a red oak that came down river in the field. It is about 4 feet across and still had the bark on it. I cut it into several chunks so as to push it back into the river. Giant sponge from top to bottom. Water just ozzing out for weeks.
rustyfarmall
Well-known Member
I bought pressure treated deck material just one year ago. Also bought pressure treated 4x4s to go along with it. I specifically asked for 4x4s rated for ground contact, and then learned that ALL pressure treated lumber that MIGHT be in contact with the ground IS already rated for such. Can't even buy anything that is not.
Texasmark1
Well-known Member
I never bought treated that was rated for ground contact. All of it
clearly stated on the attached tag that it was not. Besides what
does ground contact have to do with it? Your trailer sits in the
weather but not in the ground assuming that ground contact is
directed towards constant water and termites.
Mark
clearly stated on the attached tag that it was not. Besides what
does ground contact have to do with it? Your trailer sits in the
weather but not in the ground assuming that ground contact is
directed towards constant water and termites.
Mark
Texasmark1
Well-known Member
You'd do better with a can of linseed oil and another of turpentine. Mix 50-50. I never saw a can of Thompson's where they stated the contents and percentages so you don't know what you are getting for your momey. The turpentine thins the oil and allows it to soak deep into the wood. No arsenic so you aren't going to be killing any termites.
Mark
Mark
Galen Houk
Member
I buy a new gooseneck every four years. One reason I have to buy new ones is because that is all the longer the factory treated floors last. They curl so bad that they break off the screws, then when they dry out the ends break off. The new one I just ordered will be oak. I have oak boards around that are 50+ years old and hard as a rock. I managed a lumber yard for several years but that was 35 years ago. The treated lumber we bought was very good. They make .4 treated and .6 treated. The .6 if I remember right was treated in a vacuum chamber and retained much more of the treatment. The .6 can be in contact with earth as in a wood basement. Yes, I have a wood basement and it is great. The .4 is for decks. The treated lumber they sell at the big chains isn't even dry when you get it. You may get a good board or you may get junk. If I want good pressure treated lumber, I special order .6 grade and to me it is worth the money. Again, I paid $530 extra for Oak. We will see if I was right in four years.
Not sure I'm following you. Yes, if it's rated for ground contact, it's rated for ground contact. But not all PT is rated for ground contact. Look at the "landscape timbers" at Lowes some day- they say right on them "Not rated for ground contact", or at least the ones here do. What in the world are you going to do with landscape timbers other than put them against dirt? Same for the other "treated" in the store. A local lumberyard here sells the approved stuff and it's 2-3 times as expensive as the regular they also sell. Maybe it's not the same everywhere, but I've seen this and heard contractors talk about this for years.
rustyfarmall
Well-known Member
I have learned to do business with my local lumber yard, and avoid Lowe's, Home Depot, and Menards. Very little difference in price, and the quality is much more consistent.
Wheatfarmer
Member
Just repaired a 20' beaver tail car hauler. Treated fir. $400. I will let you know when it rots out. If it is within the next twenty years.
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