Brake Rivets how to

So I have never relined brakes before and so far all I am finding for a good price for an early A/C. XT190 is the brake linings that you rivet on. So can they be riveted with out the special tool or do I brake down and buy a new to me tool that may get used once or twice??
Thanks

I did that for my D-17. I had a flat punch that was the same diameter as the hole in the lining. I put that in my vise, then lined up the rivet, the lining and the shoe on it; then peened the rivet to the back side of the shoe.

Old; With all the different things you have worked on I'd of thought if anyone on here had a brake riveter it would of been you. LOL.
Some of the JD guys use some kind of transfer punch to roll them over. I used a small unit sold by I think JC Whitney ? for several years before I came across an older fellow selling out his auto shop tools and he had an old foot operated riveter.
Are there any old garages or shops in your area they may have one hidden in a corner somewhere ?

Sorry I can't help on the AC as I have never worked on that model before.

I do have a few older odd tool but not this rivet tool that I seem to need now. Ya I can get the bands with the shoes on for $40 each to a total of $160 plus shipping or I can buy shoes for $19 each which is a good savings. This uses bands over disk and all I find for the disk at a good price it the reline kit for around $50 for a set of 4 disk but they have to be riveted on. Or the disk with lining for $90 each

i have some rivets that i don t know what there for i got them from an old guy that passed away about 15 yrs ago. they have a split end on them

Is there a clutch/brake/industrial friction shop near you?

Rather than deal with something you'll do once, it would be worth asking what they would charge to do it right.

Price the linings through them, as well.

I use a roll pin punch for these rivets, the point on the punch keeps the punch centered and spread and folds the rivets equally all around.

When I re-shoed my A/C WD45 I just went to a buddy who runs a tractor repair shop and had him put them on for $20. Still came out way ahead of buying completely assembled shoes.

these are a pic of the rivets i have maybe someone can tell me what there for

Why can't you grind a punch that will work?
Seems that would be pretty easy.

(quoted from post at 11:21:35 03/09/15) So I have never relined brakes before and so far all I am finding for a good price for an early A/C. XT190 is the brake linings that you rivet on. So can they be riveted with out the special tool or do I brake down and buy a new to me tool that may get used once or twice??
Thanks

Click to expand...

I use a tool from aircraft tool supply to do my Allis brakes. It is a C shaped piece of steel with a guide hole. It clamps in a vice, comes with a punch to knock out the old rivet and another punch to set the new one. Pretty simple, I think it cost $20.

Have you already bought the linings? If not, you may find they are only rough cut, will be too thick and need to be arc ground. If so, that will need to be done by a shop set up to reline shoes. Like Bob said, might be best done by a reline shop.

You can! I bought the small rivet punches when I was building the radio control trucks, boats and planes. I took an old punch and formed the same profile as the little rivet punches. I drilled and taped a piece of bar stock for the rivet head diameter with the bolt end sticking up. Clamped it in a vise then put the rivet thru the lining and band and flared the rivet with the punch. I have done several sets for the Allis B's and C's.

Rich,
I have a riveter. If you're headed to Columbia anytime soon, I'd be glad to help you. I'm just west of Columbia.

Snuffy: those look to be standard split rivets--useful for many repair jobs in cloth, leather, lacing, belting, webbing, canvas, etc. etc.. Simple to use as they don't require a special setting tool--drill a hole at or a touch smaller than the shank diameter, put a rivet in, back it up against an anvil, vise or what have you, start the split with a screwdriver, cold chisel, or similar, and tap flat with a hammer.

Wish there was a shop around. Nearest brake/clutch shop is in Springfield which is a good 75-80 miles from me. So far only have one side open so not sure what all I will need to both sides. Left side was pretty easy to do but the right side has the hyd controls etc and the wheel is set in close so fighting the rim and tire just to get into the brakes

I'm curious about this as I have the Chicago Rivet "Buffalo" model, just like in the link below.

I had to look into doing friction linings for my old D7, specifically the dry clutch disc's, there are some band types on it too. From looking in a 50's Caterpillar special tools catalog, they show a machine like it, doing this work. So I spotted one on CL and ended up at someones old shop where they worked on old tractors, mostly old crawlers, he let it go cheap. He said he bought it to use for something, but never got to it. I called Chicago Rivet at that time, late '10 or early '11, and I was told that tooling is still available for these. I assume there's different ones for different rivets, anvil and the top part that presses down when you put your foot on the pedal. I have wondered what the specific use for this tool was, brake and friction material fastening or what.

What stopped me was the fact that I could get the lining segments, but I'd have to template the holes, drill and counter bore all of them accurately, so I decided the next time my father heads to Rochester NY, I'd send my clutch plates with him, as there is a long time clutch shop out there.

The tooling can't be much, same as the rivets and I wonder would one of these work on what you have, or like you say, can you use a smaller bench top model, seems you could find something that would work. Some people have apparently devised their own ways to accomplish this by hand, punch and anvil etc. just not sure if there are any issues, given the friction material is probably a bit fragile if you make a mistake, easy to ruin a piece etc. Wish you were closer, sounds like a fun afternoon job once set up.
Chicago Rivet

This one

http://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/detail.aspx?
PRODUCT_ID=W403
http://www.aircraft tool.com/shop/detail.aspx?PRODUCT_ID W403

(quoted from post at 14:04:12 03/09/15) This one

http://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/detail.aspx?
PRODUCT_ID=W403
http://www.aircraft tool.com/shop/detail.aspx?PRODUCT_ID W403

Click to expand...

That's the one, handy little guy.

Not going to be up that way till April 28th and I hope I have this out of the shop well before then

Old I have done several sets of the AC brakes without a rivet tool. I just put a bolt that is the size of the rivet head in my good vice. Then like Bison posted I use a Roll pin punch to "set" the rivet. It works well and is not hard to do.

Line up the new lining and stick a few extra rivets in some of the holes up side down to help you hold it in line. Then hold the rivet, lining, and band over the bolt in your vise. Then take the roll pin punch and set the rivet. Just be careful to not crack the lining as you can get them too tight.

Get the tool that Eldon posted. You won't need so many hands to hold the punch, lining, and hammer. Just my thoughts. Ron Mn.

before i found a old style rivet tool i use pop rivet did lot differ one with no proble with the pot rivets bit i do like the rivet tool better

I have always used a set of transfer punches as "Clooney" the long gone expert from the John Deere forum always recommended. These rivets are not on brake pads but are rivets just the same.

http://www.hansonrivet.com/hand-rivet-clinchers.htm