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Cleaning points with sandpaper

E

ejensen

Well-known Member
I realize that filing or using sandpaper to clean points is probably a poor idea. All the tractors I have have been converted to solid state Pertronix ignition units.
Told my friend who is working on his 1959 781 ford to use a piece of 150 grit sandpaper to clean points in place. He is not able to remove the points due to lack of experience. I will help him in a couple of months when I drive to where he lives. What type of sandpaper to others use?
 

I've never used sandpaper or anything else abrasive. Just tell your friend to take a one dollar bill, fold it in half, insert it between the 2 contact points, let the points close, and then drag the dollar bill out. Do it 2 or 3 times. Unless there are other problems, the tractor should then start and run.
 
Same here, rusty, but use a NEW bill- has more "tooth", and isn't contaminated with dirt and oil yet.
 
(quoted from post at 13:34:05 02/06/15) There is a tool made especially for the job, a point file.
Click to expand...

Yes, I have several of those point files. Most have never been used, because they can do more damage than good.
 
I was thinking the mechanic at the Agco dealer told me there was one side of a bill that you were supposed to use though. Don't remember if it was the face or the back? Anybody know? Or know if it makes a difference? I know he told me to do it with a new set of points when I first put them in.
 
I have used something a lot finer ! like 400 grit wet or dry paper.
After cleaning them up run clean white paper thru them until you get it to come out clean. Same with new points too.
If you have them pulled out you can use a knife sharpening stone on them if they really have high spots on them.
I always keep a new point/cond. set on hand too.
 
We use a piece of White Card Stock from moms scrap book cupboard... Ssshhhhh :)

Allows you to visually tell when the points are clean, and is a little easier to maneuver because it is thicker than normal Printer Paper...
 
Over forty years ago i was told to never use sandpaper or emory cloth because bits of sand will embed in the points. That said, ive pulled sandpaper through points for more years than that. This is on points that are burned or very badly worn and will be replaced anyway. If you are only needing to remove some corrosion dragging something gritty through them might not be good in the long run.
 
I have always used a dime on the points to shine em up. Dad and BIL did that also. Works good on the old Briggs engines with the external points. Anyone else done that?

Dick ND
 
Never.

Use an IBM card if you can find one or a piece of brown paper bag to remove the oxidization.

Never file modern contact sets and NEVER use sandpaper.

Dean
 
farmboy 48

Using a dime is something new to me. Years ago my Wife and I had a part time lawn maintenance business in addition to our regular jobs.
The new 302 echo weedeaters we bought had points. This was 30 years ago. They used to come with a small piece of flexible cloth which I think was very fine emery cloth. At the time it was recommended to use the cloth to dress the points
 
Fixerupper,
I too have been using fine sandpaper for over 40 years. Used on points that had severe pitting and were badly worn. This was just a temporary fix until new points were installed. The older mechainic I learned from started working in a blacksmith shop then model T ford. He taught me about using sandpaper, fine, on points
 
Fixerupper,
I too have been using fine sandpaper for over 40 years. Used on points that had severe pitting and were badly worn. This was just a temporary fix until new points were installed. The older mechainic I learned from started working in a blacksmith shop then model T ford. He taught me about using sandpaper, fine, on points. Where I grew up in a rural community money was scarce and if you didn't fix it you didn't have it. I remember a saying the older mechanic used: This is a fix it shop not a replacement shop.
 
When the occasion arises, (rare now, not 'back in the day') I use 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper folded over to get both sides at once. Bought a sheet in 1964 and still have over half of it left in the toolbox.
 
Mike,
Good idea, glad to see I'm not the only one who uses sandpaper to clean points.
Chris
I have very few pieces of equipment left with points. My old gas engine welder with an onan engine has points and one of the TD 6 crawlers I have has points in the magneto.. Have to work with the points almost every time I use these pieces of equipment. Have extra points for the welder and an extra magneto for the crawler
 
JMOR,

I have used point files. NAPA sells them. For me it works best to remove the points. My friend I'm helping isn't sure about removing points so told him to use a small piece of fine sandpaper. I will install a electronic ignition unit for him at some point
 
rustyfarmall,
I have found the files do not work well for me. The area where we live is near the ocean. Moisture from the sea causes problems to points that sit idle for long periods of time.
 
rustyfarmall,

I'll pass the many ideas I have learned today about cleaning points on to my friend. I'm recovering from surgery so have been unable to drive to his place and help him. Another week and I should be able to help him
 
Bod,
I cut a small piece of sandpaper with a pair of scissors. Fold it in half and drag it between the points when they are still in the piece of equipment. Thanks for the reply
 
The handiest point cleaner I ever used was a book of paper matches. A quick swipe through the points alternating the abrasive striker strip so both the fixed and moveable contacts were lightly sanded, then a "cleanup" pass or 2 with the cardboard cover on the match book got a lot of old vehicles running in a pinch. Pretty much a standard tool as a lot more folks smoked then.
 
I clean points all the time with emery cloth. But you then have to clean them with a piece of card board like the box the points come in . Works just fine and have done it hundreds of times. When done I just make sure I have spark at the points when I open and close them by hand
 
I had a well-respected local mechanic (who has been in business since all vehicles used points) tell me the same thing. He said to just use a piece of heavy paper, like a plain business card, and work it back and forth. He said if the deposits are so bad this doesn't clean it up they should be replaced.
 
Traditional Farmer
Using ether, starting fluid?, to clean sounds like a good idea. I have tried to use acetone and have found it seems to leave a film on the points and they will not spark for me
 
I still have my point file from the days I was running a gas station in the mid sixties. It resembles a finger nail file. It does not leave any sand between the point halves. If you find one keep it in your toolbox. The one where you keep the, DO NOT LOAN tools.
 
smallercrawler,
Matchbook idea for cleaning points with the striker part sounds like a good idea.
 


Lots of info, some good, some dated, some not so good.


Modern designed points have a harden tungsten finish so that they will not burn and last forever. You should not file off the harden tungsten finish, but can clean them lightly with solvent or cleaner.

china points have a cheap finish on them and will burn quickly or not fire due to contamination/oxidation. Cleaning first with a cleaner might work, the dollar bill trick will remove light contamination. If the points are burnt, only a points file will clean them, but problem is, after cleaning the will or can burn again.

SO.. if no fire, but not burnt, try cleaning with dollarbill or solvent. If burnt, file the crap out of them, or replace them with a high quality set of points.

Lots of china points out there. They will oxidize easily and need cleaning almost weekly. Even though they are not burnt, they will not fire.
 
Points I have filed have been in very bad shape. Just filed to get by until new points were available at NAPA .
I think people removed the magnetos from their tractors and put them in the house to stay warm. Have only one tractor with a magneto and the points always need attention after the tractor sits for months and the magneto has not been removed for storage by the stove
 
I agree with the abundance of cheap points that are available. I think points are almost a thing of the past
 
If you do not clean them wit ht card board good chance you will leaver emery cloth grit behind and that is enough to keep them from working
 
I wouldn't sand the points in a distributor. The points will glaze over and need to be resanded about every time you try to start the tractor.

Time for new points.

I only sand points in magnetos. I use very fine sand paper 1000 grit.

I have a Case SC with a Case magneto. I sanded the points once about twenty years a go. Have had no trouble with it. I don't put the magneto in where it is warm. The tractor sits outside in all weather conditions and all ways starts fine.
 
I prefer a points file because I don't like to leave any grit residue on the points surfaces. However, filing should be the last resort used ONLY where necessary because once you remove the shiny silvery coating they don't last long. My first preference is non abrasive clean/buff/polish like a cloth or dollar bill etc to remove the gray oxide coating. If they are burned or pitted so bad a filing is required they should be replaced eventually.

John T
 
That is what I use a lot of times as well. From what I have used it seems to work better than a point file.
 
We were told in Vo-tech it should be a twenty....(lol) Not sure it matters to that degree though.
 
(quoted from post at 15:35:56 02/06/15) When the occasion arises, (rare now, not 'back in the day') I use 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper folded over to get both sides at once. Bought a sheet in 1964 and still have over half of it left in the toolbox.
Click to expand...

I use a short piece of emory paper,don't matter what grit it is,folded so that the abrasive surfaces face each other.The backing material is course/rough enough to clean the points but doesn't leave any harmful deposits behind.
 
Den,

Good to know it has worked for You. It has always worked for me. Once I start using sandpaper on the points it becomes a continuing process but gets the equipment running.
Chris
 
John,

I agree. I live in the northwestern part of
Washington State close to the ocean. I would install new points and 4 months later they would need dressing. This is due, I think, to the high humidity and nearness to the sea where I live. I installed solid state ignition units and have had no problems for 5 years.
Chris
 

Sounds like quite a few of us have learned some tricks to get an engine running again, even when far away from the shop. The matchbook trick is a good one, but in a pinch, one of those paper matches CAN serve as a feeler gauge for setting the point gap. Probably not REAL accurate, but it WILL get you home.
 
rustyfarmall,
I agree that most of us have learned ways to get equipment
running. Your idea of a paper match book with the striker to
dress points and the match is great
 
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