I know this used to be done years ago. I know clutch discs have came down in price so most people don't fool with it anymore,unles they have one that they can't buy new anymore.Plus sometimes the quality of the aftermarket discs is a little iffy. I thought about trying myself. I have one of those machines to mash the rivets on brake shoes. Will that work on a clutch to? Any other tips?
- Thread starter Jason S.
- Start date
AS I recall, the rivets used on clutches were larger than the rivets used on brake linings. Don't know if your machine will handle different sizes of rivets.
I wondered if the clutch pads would hold the first time I saw the glued-on type, but they actually held better than the rivet type. I have seen clutches that had sheared off the rivets.
I wondered if the clutch pads would hold the first time I saw the glued-on type, but they actually held better than the rivet type. I have seen clutches that had sheared off the rivets.
You can reface the flywheel, and every once in a
while the pressure plate (they're usually warped
or have hairline fractures). As far as the
Friction Disc, the metal disc is Spring Steel, and
even if it is flat and appears to be reuseable,
you need to have it Magna-Fluxed to check for
fractures around the splined hub in the center.
The LAST thing you want is, after getting
everything put back together, the first time you
go to use the Clutch - the hub shears off from the
Friction Disc. Better to just BUY a NEW Friction
Disc - a lot less headaches that way.
:>)
while the pressure plate (they're usually warped
or have hairline fractures). As far as the
Friction Disc, the metal disc is Spring Steel, and
even if it is flat and appears to be reuseable,
you need to have it Magna-Fluxed to check for
fractures around the splined hub in the center.
The LAST thing you want is, after getting
everything put back together, the first time you
go to use the Clutch - the hub shears off from the
Friction Disc. Better to just BUY a NEW Friction
Disc - a lot less headaches that way.
:>)
Janicholson
Well-known Member
Three things:
Make sure that the recesses for the rivet heads are all the same depth and allow the rivet to be 1/16" at least below the surface and uniform.
Make sure there is no over tightening of the rivets. This causes stress cracks and failure.
Be careful to inspect the wave springs between the friction surfaces to look for cracks and distortion. The torsion spring pockets must also be nice and tight on the hub springs. These are often overlooked and can cause catastrophic failure.
Jim
Make sure that the recesses for the rivet heads are all the same depth and allow the rivet to be 1/16" at least below the surface and uniform.
Make sure there is no over tightening of the rivets. This causes stress cracks and failure.
Be careful to inspect the wave springs between the friction surfaces to look for cracks and distortion. The torsion spring pockets must also be nice and tight on the hub springs. These are often overlooked and can cause catastrophic failure.
Jim
I have done some before. You first have to find the disc. material. Then you also need a different rivet set then brake shoes use. The one for clutch rivets splits them into like a flower pedal design because you are squashing onto the lining on both sides and not up against metal on one side like a brake shoe. You also want to alternate which side you crimp them from in some kind of pattern. You don't want them all in from one direction.
Gary Mitchell
Well-known Member
,,,,but them chickens was stacked to 13.9,,,,,,
60 acre hillside
Member
When I worked for an Allis Chalmers dealer in the 1960's we relined ALL of the clutch discs with an engine overhaul. The rivets were set correctly by the machine, The linings were cheap and I do not remember any hub failures.
CenTex Farmall
Well-known Member
Truckin' on down....the other side.
M-MAN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Bostic, NC
Used to do a lot of them for NG Deere's. Would drive out the old rivets, clean and inspect it, add a coat of primer and rivet on the new facings after it dried. When you start riveting on the new facing set your punch depth shallow. Set the first rivet, check it and set your depth a little deeper repeatedly until you have the proper form on the end of the rivet and the facing is tight. Then it's just stick one in every other hole and press the pedal. Turn it and do the other side.
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