I have always used clampon duals.Have never had any issues. I aquired a set of axle duals for my 1256 a year or two ago.Never used em as they had a hub issue.That issue has been repaired. Now the question. Which type is 'better'?I am puting new rear tires on the '12' and rolling the old (50/60%)tires to the duals. Both sets have 'bowling ball' smooth tires on them at this time.So,I want to know you guys preferences.Which set should get the better tires. BTW,the new tires are Harvest King.18.4x38 8 ply. $675 each.The old ones are also H.K.
- Thread starter DeltaRed
- Start date
DeltaRed: I always put new rubber on inside. 1971 1456 Put FS 7000 Radials on inside 6 or7 years ago and then a year later put Titan Hi Power Lug radials on the hub duals. The Titans are the full 45 degree lugs not the long bar/short bar.
Then last Spring put BKT"s !8.4 by 38 on 1972 1466 on inside and remounted the cheap FS bias Field & Road on the hub duals. Have too wait for my ship to come in before the new tires go on duals!! lol
Both tractors have insidemoved in and duals set as far out as possible. And they PULL!!!!!! John
Then last Spring put BKT"s !8.4 by 38 on 1972 1466 on inside and remounted the cheap FS bias Field & Road on the hub duals. Have too wait for my ship to come in before the new tires go on duals!! lol
Both tractors have insidemoved in and duals set as far out as possible. And they PULL!!!!!! John
Delta Red, Both sets work equally well. The Clamp-on s have been used for years with no problems. As well as Axle mounted have worked equally as well. Where the problem occurs is when either set works loose or a tractor get in a situation and things get messed up, bent,
Clamp-on s...the clamps have got to stay tight! Also all stress is places on the outer lip of the inside dual!
Axle-mounts all stress is on the axle. The Hub Has got to stay tight especially just after initial installation! the lug bolts too have to be monitored.
I have used both and still prefer Hub mounted axle Duals the U-bolts thread need Lock-Tight IMO. the U-bolts working loose is the biggest concern/problem.
Putting your new tires on the "12" Inside and the older one on the duals is a Standard, Normal practice. Do put New tubes with the new tires seems to prevent problems later on.
Hope this helps!
Later,
John A.
Clamp-on s...the clamps have got to stay tight! Also all stress is places on the outer lip of the inside dual!
Axle-mounts all stress is on the axle. The Hub Has got to stay tight especially just after initial installation! the lug bolts too have to be monitored.
I have used both and still prefer Hub mounted axle Duals the U-bolts thread need Lock-Tight IMO. the U-bolts working loose is the biggest concern/problem.
Putting your new tires on the "12" Inside and the older one on the duals is a Standard, Normal practice. Do put New tubes with the new tires seems to prevent problems later on.
Hope this helps!
Later,
John A.
fixerupper
Well-known Member
If you have a heavy load on the three point on your IH and you are turning short you want hubs by all means otherwise its your call. Jim
GeneMO
Well-known Member
- Location
- Pilot Grove, Mo.
No one has mentioned this, but we had problems breaking the wheel bolts on the main wheels. If we ran any pressure to speak of on the clamp on duals.
This was on both a 706 Farmall and a 766. 18.4-34's
Not sure of any other explaination. We never broke a set of wheel bolts unless we had the clamp on duals on.
Altogether we probably had this happen three or four times.
The clamp ons did not have much tread, maybe 25%. We had to keep the pressure real low and really watch not to run the dual up on a ridge or anything.
Hope this helps.
Gene
This was on both a 706 Farmall and a 766. 18.4-34's
Not sure of any other explaination. We never broke a set of wheel bolts unless we had the clamp on duals on.
Altogether we probably had this happen three or four times.
The clamp ons did not have much tread, maybe 25%. We had to keep the pressure real low and really watch not to run the dual up on a ridge or anything.
Hope this helps.
Gene
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
I think clamp-on duals are easier to mount/dismount on tractor and put less stress on the axles because of actual location of attaching hub on inside wheel. Back when I used duals I always used nearly slick tires at lower tire pressure in the dual tires.
I have both, hub and band duals. Mudding up is not a function of type- it"s simply spacing. I have band duals on the JD 4240 planter/cultivating/stalk chopping tractor...made straddle duals for 30 inch spacing so they run between the rows. They never plug. 4450 MFWD has hub duals...they stay on year-round since I haven"t had livestock for over 12 years...they"ve never come loose, but they don"t have U-bolt hubs, either. They plug cuz they"re only about six inches apart. I don"t understand the "advice" about putting the new tires on the inside...who wouldn"t? You want traction with singles, and the biggest diameter carries more load.
In general hub duals are considered better. Could be certain uses or issues where the clamp on are 'better' but day in and day out the hubs do less stress and hold up. But either work so its not so big a deal.
I have hub duals, never used clamp on.
Very easy, one person job for me to drop off or put on the dual for plowing, drive on a 2x, take the bolts out with the electric impact, roll to the side of the building. To go back on do the reverse, use a 4 foot 2x4 on the ground and a lug to jostle it until the holes line up.
The clamp on look like a lot of hardware to keep track of, line up, screw down. But never used them.
Paul
I have hub duals, never used clamp on.
Very easy, one person job for me to drop off or put on the dual for plowing, drive on a 2x, take the bolts out with the electric impact, roll to the side of the building. To go back on do the reverse, use a 4 foot 2x4 on the ground and a lug to jostle it until the holes line up.
The clamp on look like a lot of hardware to keep track of, line up, screw down. But never used them.
Paul
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
The clamp-on duals I installed at the dealership had a rail inside dual wheel that the clamps slide around so no alignment of wheel required just start band inside tractor original wheel and start attaching the boomers.
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
The clamp-on duals I installed at the dealership had a rail inside dual wheel that the clamps slide around so no alignment of wheel required just start band inside tractor original wheel and start attaching the boomers.
rusty6
Well-known Member
- Location
- East central Sask.
I have both types . Axle mount duals on the 7130 Magnum and clamp on duals on the old 2090. Both work fine and both will fill up with mud . The clamp ons are plenty strong enough for any field work I have done in the past 34 years and are easier to remove and re install.
Clamp on duals put all the traction stress on one wheel. That is often the weak link and some tire dealers will not sell clamp on dual on some model tractors. As far as easy to take off and on, If you don't need to remove the hub the hub dual with cap screws is the easiest. Lord knows I took off and put back on a jillion over a 22 year period where the shop door was not wide enough to get customers tractors into shop with both duals on. I did it myself, chased wood be helpers away.
retired farmer
Well-known Member
You got a deal on them tires. I priced them down at COOP this summer, they wanted twelve hundred dollars for one tire.
Goose
Well-known Member
When I had an 856 Farmall, I was told not to use clamp on duals if it had stamped rear wheels, that clamp ons could only be used with cast rear wheels.
The issue is, clamp on duals put all the stress on the one wheel, and on a stamped rear wheel will cause the center to break out.
My 856 had cast wheels, but I passed over a good deal on a pair of clamp ons and spent the extra money for axle mounts anyway.
The issue is, clamp on duals put all the stress on the one wheel, and on a stamped rear wheel will cause the center to break out.
My 856 had cast wheels, but I passed over a good deal on a pair of clamp ons and spent the extra money for axle mounts anyway.
OK. The new tires are going on the inside(primarys). the old on the duals. as far as 'plugging' not a problem here-no mud,too dry.The hub dual will be in the narrow position. Meaning 'dish out',with the hub inside the dish.So the hub will remain with the dual and not stay on the axle.
Mike Aylward
Well-known Member
I have had both kinds of duals. Now, all my tractors have hub duals. I use an impact wrench to install them and in my opinion the hub duals install and remove more easily. The rim duals installed ok but always seemed hard to get off. I have heard of them taking out main tire valve stems when they would "kick" when coming off. Once I tried the hub duals I wouldn't want to go back. Mike
GeneMO
Well-known Member
- Location
- Pilot Grove, Mo.
It very well could have been a weakness with the IH and tractors from that era.
Got out of farming in 1996 so I have no valid experience with more modern tractors. I was left in the "good ole days" :lol:
Gene
indianabuckman
Member
how many clamps are use with each wheel on the clamp-on duals
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
IIRC 6 clamps per wheel
johnwayne360
Member
clamp ons are lighter and easier to handle. But you may need the weight anyway. I always had problems getting the clamp ons straight. Then they wouldnt come off easily. But my hub duals i have to move with the skidloader. Too heavy to roll around by hand.
Not nessarly so depending on model of tractor. On the John Deere A 3 clamps and the 4000-5000 Fords 4 clamps, or was that reverced, been too many years to remember exactly bigger tractors = more clamps. And then bigger tractors more likely canidates for the hub mount duals, small tractors clamp type. But then Deere had hub mount for the A and Ford also had hub mount for the 8N-NAA series.
fixerupper
Well-known Member
My experience with durability comes from only one tractor - a 1086. Started out with rim types because they were cheaper. At the time i was using heavy rear mounted implements. I couldn't keep the hubs tight to save my life. Sold the rim duals and got used hub type duals. After ten years of use the center broke out of both dual rims and I welded them back on and all was fine. Then at a farm sale I found duals and hubs that I assume were sold by IH and they have been solid. The hubs are heavier and the rim centers are thicker. I think one of the culprits that caused the rim centers to break out was the unforgiving five shank Deere V ripper that sucked down hard on the rear of the tractor while the tractor was lugging its guts out. Turning short on the end of the field didn't help either.
Eldon (WA)
Well-known Member
Pretty hard to put hub duals on some tractors....
Wemedeeres
Member
Im a fan of hub duals, I hated putting on band duals it seemed like it took threes times as long to install. I don't think we ever got them on straight on the first try. We'd tighten them down drive around the yard to make sure they didn't wobble, tighten them again, drive around some more and tighten again. Then we brought the tools with to tighten them some more after a couple rounds in the field. Hub duals we'd zap them in with the impact wrench and head to the field, never an issue.
larryanderson
Well-known Member
I don't know if any new tractors have clamp on duals.In our area clamp on rims are used for fire pits.I remember the first M&W duals.Some axles if too short will leave clampons the only option.If you want to run triples the outside set is usually clamp ons.I had an uncle that never would run duals as he thought they packed the ground twice as much,now many tractors come with front duals on MFWD tractors
If you go with the clamp-on duals, I highly recommend getting the over center binders from Unverferth instead of the all thread with nuts.
It makes it a lot easier to mount the duals when you are working alone. (shamless opportunity to show unverferth clamps on one of my favorite spring time tractor photos)
I have a lot of trouble mounting my axle duals, but mainly just because they are 20.8x42 and as tall as I am and the dual hubs use lug bolts, not lug studs. I bought a few extra lug bolts and cut the heads off, then cut a screw driver slot in the end. I install 2 of them on the hub, then use them as alignment dowels to get the other bolts in. Then use a big screw driver to remove. You say you are going to leave the hubs on the wheels, and just remove/install by sliding the hub onto the axle? That sounds even harder, but I guess it could work. 18.4-38's are a heck of a lot lighter than 20.8-42's.
It makes it a lot easier to mount the duals when you are working alone. (shamless opportunity to show unverferth clamps on one of my favorite spring time tractor photos)
I have a lot of trouble mounting my axle duals, but mainly just because they are 20.8x42 and as tall as I am and the dual hubs use lug bolts, not lug studs. I bought a few extra lug bolts and cut the heads off, then cut a screw driver slot in the end. I install 2 of them on the hub, then use them as alignment dowels to get the other bolts in. Then use a big screw driver to remove. You say you are going to leave the hubs on the wheels, and just remove/install by sliding the hub onto the axle? That sounds even harder, but I guess it could work. 18.4-38's are a heck of a lot lighter than 20.8-42's.
indianabuckman
Member
The tractor is a oliver 1800c. The clamp-ons came with the tractor and there are only 6 clamps total.
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