Oil change challanges

What is the most difficult piece of equipment (tractor, truck or car) that you own with almost no access to the stupid oil filter or drain plug?
 
Mine is my Mahindra, filter and drain are easy. Getting oil back into the engine is a nightmare. Will barely flow thru the fill opening
 
1996 international truck with a 466 international engine in it. A big filter behind a lot of frame.
 

The Arctic Cat four stroke turbo snowmobile that I just got considerable diassembly required to get to either.
 
(quoted from post at 03:06:25 12/11/14) What is the most difficult piece of equipment (tractor, truck or car) that you own with almost no access to the stupid oil filter or drain plug?

Used to be my 2008 InfinitiFX35. I had to remove the front splash shield that had like 12 bolts, then it was easy to change filter and drain oil.
After the first service, I decided to make it easier so I modified the shield by cutting out a square and making a door out of it. Biggest job was locating the access door.
Now it's easy.
 
i nominate my CaseIH 5240 with "factory" loader... drain plug ok to get at but drains oil into the drive shaft guard for the front axle, then you need a degree in yoga to get hood and side panels off with the loader in place, and to top it of the oil filler tube is hidden behind the loader frame and requires a large funnel and 12 inch long piece of pipe to get the oil into it... oh, and then you have to balance on top of the tire/ cab step and lean over the loader... take the loader off and everything is easy...

I've yet to figure out why a factory loader blocks access to everything (air filter too)...
 
I changed oil for my sistersinlaw on a Ford 2012 F150 echo
boost. What a job! Could not find the drain plug or how to get to the oil filter. I had to go on to youtube to figure out how it was done.
Brian
 
(quoted from post at 19:06:25 12/10/14) What is the most difficult piece of equipment (tractor, truck or car) that you own with almost no access to the stupid oil filter or drain plug?

Always a pain to change oil in the 7775 JD skidsteer. 6 bolts to get the plate off the bottom to access the drain plug, then need to remove side panel and wiggle your hand down to remove filter...hand is in a position of least leverage to twist filter off.
#2 would be Toyota Camry....need special wrench to remove filter housing unless you like an oil bath.
#3 is Craftsman lawn tractor drain plug...have to pull and twist, but is right inside frame rail and no way to get a pair of pliers in there.
 
700 arctic cat four wheeler is a pain, gotta remove most plastic, skid plates etc and then the filter is in the tightest spot and you gotta have just the right filter wrench as you can't get your hands in the spot.
 
I had a Q-45 Infinity once and it was a great car but these "Quick" oil change places would not change the oil it it. Always had to take it back to the dealership. The only time that car was at a dealership in 150,000 miles was to get the oil changed. The second thing that comes to mind is any of the tractors with a permanent mounted two row picker. The John Deere 237 manual even suggests you change the oil and filter before you begin to mount the picker.
 
Jeep Grand Cherokee. Takes only one qt. oil but is pressurized & can only be done by dealer. And he may have to do it several times to get it right!
 
Not a truck, tractor or car, but I've got a 1985 Tollycraft 30 ft boat with twin Crusader (small block Chevy) V-8s. To get to the starboard oil filter I either have to remove the exhaust and crawl around the engine or reach past the coolant hoses where there's just not quite enough room for my arm. Every time I change that filter I end up with a large bruise and a bloody scrape on my right arm and high blood pressure. I'm way too big and arthritic to crawl around the engine. I suck the oil out thru the dipstick, but that's pretty standard for inboard boat engines.
 
EZ, EZ, I win, where's my prize; brand new Cub Cadet GT 2550. You can see the drain plug, and on a good afternoon can actually touch it with a finger-tip or two. Beyond that, you're on your own....
 
Meant to mention, the fix is easy, once I thought of it; went to O'Reilly's and had them make up a short [6"] piece of hydraulic hose, with corrent NPT end on one end and I threaded on a drain valve on the other end, got that stupid drain plug out, installed the hose, voila, fixed!
 
2003 VW passat with 1.8 turbo. Gotta remove one end of the air house to get the filter out from the top. No way too get it from the bottom. I also permanently removed the plastic shield under the engine that had to be removed to do anything.

Donovan from Wisconsin
 
My 1999 Saturn SL1. Its easiest to remove the right front tire and the inner fender liner then its easy, easiest oil change was my 2003 Chrysler Town & Country minivan, you could just about lay in front of it to get 'r done..
 
(quoted from post at 19:36:30 12/10/14)
(quoted from post at 19:29:06 12/10/14)
The Arctic Cat four stroke turbo snowmobile that I just got considerable diassembly required to get to either.

T660 or the 1100?

K

It's a 2013 F-1100 turbo Snow Pro, with 1758 miles. I had to get a manual in order to figure out how to take the hood off, LOL. After looking for awhile I finally found the oil filter. I can see it but can't touch it. To drain the oil you have to open two different places. To get at one you have to remove a belly pan that appears to be riveted in. It has lots of electronics which I know will make it very expensive to get repaired when needed. It will probably be my last sled because at nearly 66 years I don't heal like I used to.
 
If it has a dipstick try removing the dipstick to let air in as you add the oil. My old JD M and LA are like that !
 
son bought a Hyunda car, We ran a quick change lube at the tire shop. you have to reach around a super hot exhaust manifold to get to the filter. I still have the scars from the 3rd degree burns on my left arm.
 
O it is just a bugger getting to the oil drain on my 1943 IH T-9 crawler. I'm going to have to build a pit in my shop to do a good job. Right now I have to drain it in the bell pan then catch it in a large basin because I can;t get to the belly pan oil plug access. When I do get in there I think I have 3 or 4, 3/4" wobbly sockets, a 3" extension and at least two wrenches in the CAKED bell pan.
 
Caterpillar D7 starting engine, (3T,4T, 7M series tractors) definitely not an easy place to reach into. I found it was easier to pull the side inspection cover off and use a drill pump or suction line was easier, though one had best use lots of care to clean all around the area, section of track, engine to not allow any contaminants in, other than that, it makes it very easy to change the oil, and clean the bottom of the sump, also be cognizant of not using anything, rags, paper towels or anything that can disperse lint, dust or similar.
 
(quoted from post at 05:03:16 12/11/14)
It's a 2013 F-1100 turbo Snow Pro, with 1758 miles. I had to get a manual in order to figure out how to take the hood off, LOL. After looking for awhile I finally found the oil filter. I can see it but can't touch it. To drain the oil you have to open two different places. To get at one you have to remove a belly pan that appears to be riveted in. It has lots of electronics which I know will make it very expensive to get repaired when needed. It will probably be my last sled because at nearly 66 years I don't heal like I used to.

Ah, I don't have a sled of that vintage so I can't help you. That being said I don't recall people talking about the oil changes being overly hard on those. I would suggest talking to the folks over at www.arcticchat.com. There's a 4-Stroke section.

I've got a T660, you have to remove one of the turbo's pipes to change the oil in it. Other then that it's not bad.

K
 
Then there is my 1946 Adams 311 motor grader. See for yourself

mvphoto13810.jpg


I could almost crawl under the engine, there is enough room to put the oil pan on top of the tranny/finals when I drain the oil.
 
Hi I find usually anything that comes into my shop guys won't service them selves. when they do the rest of their own equipment usually! L.O.L.
The worst is not the drain plug or filter, but getting the oil back in on a Belarus with an older style 2 point mounted Allied. a guy needs a 3ft extension hose on the jug to re fill it.
Regards Robert
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top