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Onan generator question for Billy S.

J

jacks

Member
I have an Onan 12.0 DJC generator wired through a 200 amp transfer switch to provide backup power to my house. I start it about once a month to keep the battery charged. Sometimes when I switch to generator power, it is only producing a partial voltage. This usually happens if there is only a small electrical load (lights etc) in the house at the time. If I turn on my heat pump, the generator grunts and the voltage comes up and it works fine. It holds very close to 240/120 volts and responds well to changes in load. Would a new voltage regulator board fix this problem? Thanks for your help and advice.
 
What voltage does it put out under a light load? I would think a regulator would effect all loads. I wonder if it has a coupler between the engine and generator unit that may be going bad. If it has one.
 
It should be producing 240 at all times.I would check the voltage. At the generator contacts of the switch. Sounds like you may have a bad contact surface. The heavy load coming on. Can make the bad contact arc and create a full contact. I would kill all power to the switch and check the contacts.

If you feel the board is the problem. You can send it to Flight Systems. They can check it out for you. Very good company with real people. That know what they are doing.But I have found the 1540 board either works or it doesn't. Check the contacts first.
 
I would love to have a generator like that for my hunting cabin. If a person found one, lets say out of an old RV, any idea what they may cost?

Gene
 
What you want to look for. Is CCK,BF,BFA and NH. All 1800 RPM. No voltage regulator and simple controls. A good one will run 350-500 dollars. Depending on what shape it is in.

The DJC and JC can run around a thousand or more. The Emerald units BGE,NHE and NHM are fully electronic. Good units but they have more problems. Around the same price.As the CCK.
 


So, Like an older one for say a 1975 motor home. I have my eye on one. Father in Law is 85 and the old motorhome hasn't moved in years. I think some day he will let me part it out, at least for the generator. Generator runs good, starts from the cab, first time every time. I doubt it has all that much usage.

Are those older ones OK, or more trouble than worth? Any problems with those older models?

Thanks, Gene

PS, dont mean to hijack the thread. Sorry
 
12.0DJC 2701 AA
BILLY ARE YOU REFERRING TO CONTACTS IN THE TRANSFER SWITCH OR IN THE GENERATOR? I DO KNOW THAT IT IS A BRUSHLESS GENERATOR.
 
Contacts on the transfer switch. If you ID tag is missing. There are six numbers stamped above the oil fill tube. That is the serial number. With them I can get you the build sheet. Tells you what it left the factory with. Also what transfer switch do you have.
 
The CCK was the most common one used in 1975.CCK is the Rolls Royce of the older units. I have seen fights break out over them.Everyone is looking for them.The CCK line started in 1941. Not uncommon to find a 1941 model still doing it's job.I just serviced a 1968 CCK for a local ranch.

Good thing about the older ones.Simple controls and easy to work on. Long lasting if you take care of them.

The J line of generators. Are also wanted by many people.Good dependable units. Just the right size for most homes.
 
Billy, the full model is 12.0 DJC-3CR/2701AA
serial F780333008
I installed a Dayton 200 amp manual transfer switch with the line side 200 amp utility power, and the auxiliary side #6 copper going to the generator with a 60 amp breaker in that line. I have always switched it over with whatever load that happened to be connected to the house. The generator has never stalled out, and can handle normal loads from the house. I try not to have the clothes dryer, range, water heater and well pump all running at once. The 60 amp breaker has never tripped, and likewise never tripped the overload on the generator. I would like to get it fixed to the point where I don't have to have the heat pump running to get it generating properly.
 
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