Would someone out there know a tractor mechanic familiar/knowledgeable about Ford tractors within 50 miles Birmingham, Alabama? There is not a Ford/New Holland tractor dealer within 100 miles of my location and most tractor dealers I have talked to work on tractors they sell and have little interest in working on other brands. Would certainly appreciate anyone's help.
- Thread starter JPBGP
- Start date
Just read your post below regarding the power steering leak. Sounds like the thought of tearing it apart makes you nervous. I can understand that! I'm curious if the mechanic that showed you the IT manual would be willing to do it?
I bet you could do it. Honestly, you really don't need a bunch of specialty tools, and if you have a harbor freight around, you can buy the pullers and other stuff pretty cheap.
At any rate...
Good luck!
I bet you could do it. Honestly, you really don't need a bunch of specialty tools, and if you have a harbor freight around, you can buy the pullers and other stuff pretty cheap.
At any rate...
Good luck!
Ford's been a very popular tractor, friends of mine have many of them. I am sure there has to be a mechanic [ NOT a dealer ] who does Ford work. You just have to search around your area, ask around, find the independent good-reputation repair shop. Save money, too, if you could avoid the dealer. Just ask who's got the best reputation in your area.
RobCons
Well-known Member
- Location
- Central Alabama
JP try calling Active Tractor (205)688-9120 in Jemison. Don Gilbert is the owner and a NH dealer. He owns an old Ford.
Thanks John_PA. actually was a tractor parts associate who showed me IT manual. He suggested I use their Kobota service department mechanics but, they only work on other brands when their business is slow. The thought of tearing it apart doesn't make me nervous it's getting the seals out and replacing them properly. IT manual info seem to suggest it was somewhat technical to properly replace seal and also suggested the bottom seal should be replaced to. Would prefer to do the job myself but do not want to get in over my head. What specialty tools are needed for this repair?
It's easy to punch a seal in. The only specialty tools you should need are a seal puller, and a set of 3 jaw gear pullers, to get the steering wheel off.
You don't need a seal installation tool like suggested, you just need a big socket that is the same size as the outer edge of the seal.
Really sometimes, manuals make a big deal out of stupid things and glance over important aspects. For example, some automotive manuals assume you know how to replace valve guides, but assume you don't know how to change a spark plug.
It's not a big deal to install a seal, and since the seals are cheap, there is no shame in buying 2, just incase the first one gets messed up while pounding it in.
You don't need a seal installation tool like suggested, you just need a big socket that is the same size as the outer edge of the seal.
Really sometimes, manuals make a big deal out of stupid things and glance over important aspects. For example, some automotive manuals assume you know how to replace valve guides, but assume you don't know how to change a spark plug.
It's not a big deal to install a seal, and since the seals are cheap, there is no shame in buying 2, just incase the first one gets messed up while pounding it in.
That info gives me more encouragement to do the job myself. I have already pulled the steering wheel because I had a gear puller. I have sockets from very small up to 1-1/2" and should have seal installation covered. Thanks for replying. Your info and comments are very helpful.
John_PA, you sent me a reply a few days ago responding to my post for info repairing a steering column leak on my 3400 Ford tractor. Your post suggested I get a FO-31 IT manual so I would know how to properly stake the #21 nut on the diagram you sent me. I do not understand what that means. Would you please elaborate? Thanks.
I'm pretty sure tat was Ultradog who talked about the specifics of the job.
Although, staking a nut is done after you get it torqued correctly. You take a center punch or sharpened punch and a hammer and put it on one of the flats and give it a good whack. It's best to do it in 2 places to make sure you get the threads locked up well(not directly across from each other).
Sometimes the nut has a staking crown on it so there is a place to stake it into a keyway, but I think on that one, there isn't.
Although, staking a nut is done after you get it torqued correctly. You take a center punch or sharpened punch and a hammer and put it on one of the flats and give it a good whack. It's best to do it in 2 places to make sure you get the threads locked up well(not directly across from each other).
Sometimes the nut has a staking crown on it so there is a place to stake it into a keyway, but I think on that one, there isn't.
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