Replacing truck bed sides

So I have a 1979 dodge power wagon I wanna fix the rust
issues, rocker panels I can do no problem. Fixed one box side
with bondo wasn't rusted threw to bad yet, the drivers side is
bad, I have replacement panel, do I cut out the size of the
panel, its the wheel arch and probebly eight inches more on
sides and top so only a little portion of full side. Or do I put it
over top spot weld it and bondo over the whole outside to get
rid of it being not level. Cutting it scares me as I don't know
how I'd reattach the inner fender well and make it like it should
be, I think cutting it would be the right way any thoughts?

They make a tool that is a pair of vice grips with some special jaws that form a step/flange in the metal. You can then over lap the join with it being flat on the outside.

This is about how big my replacement panel would be, and this is what the truck looks like, do I cut all this out, I don't know how that vise grip would work, just don't know how good I could blend it in if I just put panel over top and bondo'd it in around all edges to make smooth dont know if I can make it look good.

Maybe vicegrip the patch so it slips up behind the original panel.

I replaced the box on my 79 W200 with a flatbed long ago. Have you looked under the floor mat? Here's a pic of mine. I have that floor panel cut out now and am working on removing the rocker panel but time is tight right now. You might find more than you want to find behind the rocker panel. Rockers are on my agenda too but the structure behind the rocker panel is rusted so bad I'll have to fabricate new steel there first.

Get rid of the pickup bed and put on a flatbed.Problem solved.

I have a tool for an air hammer that does the same thing.

Won't put a flat bed on it, want it to stay original. gonna restore it inside and out once I get my replacement panels done, then comes fixing a few oil leaks and then paint, already have the 360 all done, basically all chrome, and rebuilt it all, its a good running 360 now with plenty of power. Put on better flowing heads, increased compression a bit with new pistons etc. swapped cams, long tube headers and electric fans with a 4bbl carb and intake, has good power now.

Can you post a picture of your truck would like to see it, my
floor pans are good. I see yours has the four speed. Does it
have granny gear? Do you have a 360 or 318 don't think they
offered the slant six in the 3/4 ton, now the 360 was biggest in
79. How bad was your box

360 with the close spaced four speed, meaning granny is synchronized and not creepy slow. 4:10 finals. She's wrapping pretty good at 60. Bought it new and someday it will be looking like new but it might be awhile. Can't get a good pic right now.

Son took off the original Holley two barrel and put a four barrel on it but it didn't do much for added power so I put the original carb and manifold back on it. The original air cleaner was lost and I'm having a fair amount of trouble finding one off a 79 with a 360. Good luck with your project.

G1355! Where did you find replacement panels for the Dodge? I have an 80, 1/2 ton, short bed, that needs floor pans. Older Chevys , and Fords are there, but not the 72 thru 80 Dodges. I finally found a rust free, and straight 78 cab and recabbed my 75, D 200. Had to trade wiring harness, to make it easier.

Cut the rusted area out of the quarter, make sure it's a smaller area than the patch panel. grind the area you are going to cut so you can weld on clean steel later. Then cut the patch panel to fit. The best is to flange the panel and cut the patch to fit in the flanged area, you can make a flanger out of a pair of vise grips like in the picture JD posted(I made my own, nothing to it)or you can buy one. You want a 3/4 inch flange. You want the flange in on the quarter so your patch will lay even with the surface of the origional quarter, practice on some scrap till you get it right. Drill 5/16 holes around the patch every inch apart, fit the patch into place and drill every other hole for a #8 by 3/8 sheet metal screw, start in the middle and work your way out. With the patch screwed into place the way you want it start wire feed welding into place, plug weld the holes and weld the seam, naturally about an inch at a time to not warp the panel. When done remove the screws and weld those holes making sure you get the screw holes in the origional panel welded nice, this will give you a nice lap seam that will be strong. Grind, clean the welds and then use Duraglass for the first coating of bondo, Duraglass is strong and waterproof but keep it low cause it is hard to work and finish with your favorite Bondo. I have done many wheel well patches like yours and lower quarters this way and have had very good luck with not warping a panel, have some jobs out there for years and they still look good. If you can get to the back side of any weld protect that also with a good sealing product. Hope this makes sense to you.

Lmc truck finally figured out this summer dodge made a truck before 1994! The 72-80 trucks are the same and 81-93 are the same as for body lines matching up etc. 72-93 are very similar with few changes most parts interchange, biggest difference was body lines. Replacement panels are pretty cheap actually. Only thing I can find is a light blue pair of door panels and the light blue armrests anyone have some or know of any p,ease let me know as no aftermarket ones exist and nos are only black that are left from vendors.

Just cut out the rusted and then cut the patch down to fit, but make sure you cut big enough to get to good metal. Big patch or small patch really doesen't make much difference as long as the end result is good metal. Go to your favorite parts store and buy a flanger or make one, will make a nice patch, cause when you are done welding the patch is even with or close to the origional panel and will finish out, if your good with bondo you will never know it was patched, practice on a piece of scrap with the flanger. I always cut the patch out square and the corners will flange just fine. If your fender bottoms are nice you could end the patch under the mouldings.

Glad to see I am not the only one running an old Dodge! I just picked up an 85 W350 single wheel with the 360 4sp. What a beast! Mine by the tach is turning right at 3k at 65 mph!

G1355: You have replacement panels correct??? They will cover about six inches around the wheel well. You cut the old bed at about 5 1/2 inches out. You then take the flange tool and put a flange around the excising steel. This flange would be back about the 1/2 you left on the bed smaller than the replacement panel. So you now have a relieved flange around the old bed for the new panel to lay in with the outside being flat. You then can spot weld or rivet the panel in place. Then fiberglass the seam smooth.

If you try to match weld the patch in the weld will deform the line of the bed. It will have a wave in it. That is what making the flange helps to prevent.

As for panels the best I have ever seen are form Rust Repair Panels/Mills manufacturing Cleveland , Ohio. They are US made.

[b:2a636aa373]Rust Repair Panels[/b:2a636aa373]

http://rustrepair.com/

The bed panels you need for the wheel wells are only $38. The entire larger panel is $101.

(quoted from post at 21:42:56 11/29/14)
I replaced the box on my 79 W200 with a flatbed long ago. Have you looked under the floor mat? Here's a pic of mine. I have that floor panel cut out now and am working on removing the rocker panel but time is tight right now. You might find more than you want to find behind the rocker panel. Rockers are on my agenda too but the structure behind the rocker panel is rusted so bad I'll have to fabricate new steel there first.

Click to expand...

Fixerupper: Try [b:3a0d4788d4]Rust Repair Panels[/b:3a0d4788d4] on line

http://rustrepair.com/

The floor pan is only $44.71. The cab support below it is $48.
The rocker panel is $23

You can't make the panel for that cost.

That looks pretty bad. I'm not familiar with a dodge, but other trucks the bed side attaches to the wheel well above the tire. It looks like your bedside and wheel well are both rusted away. I'd investigate that. And I would not paint over your bondo repair. It is only a short time before it will rust out again. It will need the same repair as this side. I like old trucks and have several. Rust is miserable to repair. Good luck,
Josh

Makes sense now thanks

Mine would be about 2500 at 55 so I about the same I have the3 speed 727

Thanks for the link JD. I got the floor pans and rocker panels from Autobodyspecialists but I'm willing to try another source for the rest of the parts. The floor pans were $59 and are original thickness, which impressed me for an aftermarket source. Still need the cab supports. The driver's floor pan seems to be just a twitch off but I haven't had time to get serious about fitting yet.

Hayrack I had an 82 in the same color.