farmall c with 123

anthem

Member
ijust got this I believe c,no serial # on right side of box,, water in oil, took off head and gssket looked o k.. looks like a recent valve job,at bolts are clean and clean around valves,the pistons are steel, no water pump, new radiator, can't see any cracks in head or block,,,i'm stumped,, could it be head bolts guides are bad,they had a pressure cap on it, the wrong head gasket, gasket for water pump,,, any help wil be greatly appreciated thanks in advance J
 
That is a wet sleeved engine so good chance you have a bad sleeve seal o-ring. BTDT easy way to find it is pull the oil pan off and set card board under it and see where the water falls from
 
Are you sure it is a 123? I thought the did't put the 123 until the Super C/200 series. Sure I'll get an education on that!
 
I too have a 1950 C. Because you said it has no water pump, it's a good bet you have one of the first C's. Otherwise the newer one would have a pump. Does it really matter that much what year tractor your have other than having a few more hp and a water pump?

I had to remove the head antifreeze would leak down the side of the engine.

The sleeves on mine stuck about .10 inches above the block. The old mechanic at the IH/case said that was normal. I thought it was very odd. I used loads of copper spray on my gasket and head. I checked, head and block weren't warped.

I had to remove valve train 6 times to re-torque before bolts stopped getting lose, most likely because of the sleeves sticking above block.

That said, if I were you, I would remove the head, get a new gasket, get hi temp RTV and coat the head. Not the ring seal that comes in contact with the sleeve.

It won't be the first time someone thinks I'm crazy, but in the early 70's a college friend had a similar issue with his 4 cylinder ford. Dealer replaced head gasket 2 times and when it went out of warranty, it leaked again. I helped him remove the head, he siliconed it and it lasted him over 100k, until he got rid of car.

It's easy to remove head and try silicone. If you still get antifreeze then you have a crack someplace.

Another friend had similar issue, he discovered this block was cracked internally between lower sleaves.
Good luck
George
 
(quoted from post at 13:58:13 11/09/14) That is a wet sleeved engine so good chance you have a bad sleeve seal o-ring. BTDT easy way to find it is pull the oil pan off and set card board under it and see where the water falls from[/
quote]

I have head and pan off # 2,3 had water in them,,do I put water by liner?is the O ring at top of liner, don't have any experience with liners,, how do I replace O rings on liners? the block says c 123 and the head #is 251172-R-2 thanks for your input
 
(quoted from post at 14:25:47 11/09/14) I too have a 1950 C. Because you said it has no water pump, it's a good bet you have one of the first C's. Otherwise the newer one would have a pump. Does it really matter that much what year tractor your have other than having a few more hp and a water pump?

I had to remove the head antifreeze would leak down the side of the engine.

The sleeves on mine stuck about .10 inches above the block. The old mechanic at the IH/case said that was normal. I thought it was very odd. I used loads of copper spray on my gasket and head. I checked, head and block weren't warped.

I had to remove valve train 6 times to re-torque before bolts stopped getting lose, most likely because of the sleeves sticking above block.

That said, if I were you, I would remove the head, get a new gasket, get hi temp RTV and coat the head. Not the ring seal that comes in contact with the sleeve.

It won't be the first time someone thinks I'm crazy, but in the early 70's a college friend had a similar issue with his 4 cylinder ford. Dealer replaced head gasket 2 times and when it went out of warranty, it leaked again. I helped him remove the head, he siliconed it and it lasted him over 100k, until he got rid of car.

It's easy to remove head and try silicone. If you still get antifreeze then you have a crack someplace.

Another friend had similar issue, he discovered this block was cracked internally between lower sleaves.
Good luck
George
 
(reply to post at 14:58:27 11/09/14) [/quot
the liners are flush with the block,,what is the head bolt tightening sequence and the valves are set at .014? maybe, I will try the copper spray and a new gasket there was copper spray on block is there something better than copper spray?? thanks guys appreciate the help
 
To remove the sleeve seals you need to pull the pistons and connecting rods. You probably should have the head magna fluxed for cracks at your local auto machine shop. How long have you had this tractor? It may be time to rebuild the engine using a new sleeve kit. Pull the engine and have the crankshaft measured for wear at your local auto machine shop. Hal
 
(quoted from post at 23:08:07 11/09/14)
(reply to post at 14:58:27 11/09/14) [/quot
the liners are flush with the block,,what is the head bolt tightening sequence and the valves are set at .014? maybe, I will try the copper spray and a new gasket there was copper spray on block is there something better than copper spray?? thanks guys appreciate the help

Next time, I using hi temp RTV
 
should have pulled the pan and checked for a leaky o-ring located at the bottom of the seal as most of the time thats where the leak is from. Now you can still remove pan as there will be drops still there at the bottom of the sleeve or sleeves you could have more than just one leaking.
 
I'm betting on liner seals. I just had the same problem with my Super C this spring. There was a little water in the oil the last few years. This spring after sitting in a cold shed over winter half the coolant was in the oil pan. I dropped the oil pan and saw where it was leak around the wet seal. I replaced the liners since I had the old ones out. I bought the liner kit from this web site. I was happy with there service. Used the seals supplied with the liners and that fixed the coolant in the oil problem. You can read my posts about my C in the archives. It might be helpful. There are a lot of guys on here that know these engines. Dale
 
I'm pretty sure the liners should be a few thousands above the block deck. That is so when you tighten down the head the head gasket will hold the liners down in the block. I always try to find a manual. I think I used an IT manual.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top