Best penetrant on rusted roller chains

55 50 Ron

Well-known Member
Trying to free some long rusted # 80 roller chains (combine drive chains from an old Massey) and wondered what is/are the best penetrant/penetrants for the job. Thanks Ron

Been using some Kroil spray-on without success. Maybe have to buy a large amount of Kroil or other and completely immerse the chains??
 
Ron, I am a big fan of kroil, but it maybe cheaper to replace the chain. Get on line and check out the big bearing store.
 
(quoted from post at 23:19:43 10/02/14) Trying to free some long rusted # 80 roller chains (combine drive chains from an old Massey) and wondered what is/are the best penetrant/penetrants for the job. Thanks Ron

Been using some Kroil spray-on without success. Maybe have to buy a large amount of Kroil or other and completely immerse the chains??

I think you would be better off to remove the chains and immerse them. That's what I did last year on some gathering chains. I got some big Tupperware totes and mixed kerosene and automatic transmission fluid and soaked the chains in that.
 
I've freed up badly rusted and locked down pliers and such by soaking in diesel fuel for a few days. TDF
 
Soak them in Industrial Toilet Bowl Cleaner (23 % Hydrochloric Acid), about $4.00 per litre.

That will remove the rust.
 
Any rusted up rollers will really tear up a sprocket.

I replace any rusted chains that might have rollers froze up.

Gary
 
A new chain will give you much better results than a rusted up, stretched out old chain will. You'll spend a few bucks and a couple of hours fooling with the old chain, then it will chew up your sprocket, and you'll wind up replacing it rather quickly when it starts jumping and tearing other stuff up. A new chain, while 80's will cost a few bucks, will fit right on, and run smooth for a long time - especially if you're smart enough to put some chain lube on it each evening.
 
that was about what I was going to suggest,
Transmission fluid with diesel or kerosene.
In a plastic pail to immerse and soak.
 
If I have said it once I have said it a thousand times ATF does better and is cheaper then any thing I have ever found and if you have a transmission shop in your area good chance you can get a bucket of it for little or nothing
 
I should have included more info on my first post. Sorry.

This combine will never harvest a crop. It's a donated machine (21A) to Farmamerica near Waseca, MN. We don't plan to restore, just possibly get the engine running and drive it around the grounds for display.

I have the chains off and have had them soaking totally immersed in WD-40. A few joints have come loose with prying with a large screwdriver while spraying an occasional shot of Kroil.

Thanks for all the suggestions.
 
Used motor oil from oil changes. We put it in ivory liquid soap bottles and kept it in the combine cab. Oil all our chains with it when we quit for the evening and the chains were warm. dont cost much. Soak it a couple of times and see if they free up.

Gene
 
I've found the best way to loosen rusted roller chain is to take them off machine-----then throw them away-----and buy new.
 
If you plan to use this chain on some little used, slow moving machine boil it in whatever the other guys recommend for a penetrant. Boiling will help it get into the rollers and side plates. Do it outside the shop. Muriatic acid will get the surface rust but I don't know how well it will penetrate the rollers.

If you plan to use the chain on a high speed, high torque machine, you are better off throwing the rusted one in the junk and getting a new one.
 
How much are the chains already stretched? If you intend to actually use the machine in the field, then 0.5 percent stretch is already borderline. Over 1 percent stretch you probably need new sprockets as well as new chains.
 
If you've only gotten a few of the joints loose, out of HUNDREDS, it sounds like a lost cause to me. Someone is going to drive themselves insane spending countless hours beating and prying on these chains, and in the end the rollers will STILL be rusted and will STILL chew up the sprockets in short order. IMHO even just driving around the show grounds.

Maybe one of your members has some used #80 in a bucket somewhere? Worn chain that's loose and not rusty will be better than what you have now, and it's still "free."
 
I have a barrel of used motor oil I put rusted things in and most of the time within a few weeks they come out with most of the rust gone and in working condition.The chain depends on what condition it was in when it rusted up.
 
The JD 375 round baler I bought a few years ago had an extremely rusted chain. I soaked it thoroughly, in place on the baler, with a foaming chain lube from Justice Brothers.... Google for info.

It is a fantastic lube and I am still using the chain and the lube after several seasons with no signs of needing replacement.

I use Kroil also for my tough jobs, but on the chain I think the Justice Bros product is superior as it is made specifically for chains and specifically to remain in place and not be spun off.

Mark
 

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