JD 4240 general questions

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My '81 JD 4240 just got here today, I'm coming from a White 2-105. They took about two weeks to get it here after I bought it. I told them I wanted it ready so that I could hook up to the baler and go without having to do anything with it. Of course it isn't where I'm 100% comfortable to do that. I told them if they saw issues I'd pay them to fix them.

I'm self taught with pretty much everything (my dad was not what you'd call "nice" to me and Mom starting at a young age, so I didn't learn anything that way as I avoided him whenever possible), I can figure stuff out, most stuff I work on gets fixed, just don't have much experience with stuff that's different (had I seen a decent White, I'd have gotten one, despite nobody in the area that I could have work on it), or general knowledge on some things. 99% of the time my stuff is not touched by anyone but me for the minor to moderate stuff depending what I have time for.

Issues should be simple enough, but I thought I'd run them by people that have worked on these before. And I'm a little annoyed and feel like typing. I didn't have a lot of time to look a lot of it over very well today. 1, The fuel lift pump/whatever has a leak behind it, seems to be just oil (they just changed it recently so it's not too black yet). I'm guessing it's just a gasket, but if the pic uploads, thought I'd get a second opinion, never had this issue with other tractors, and didn't know what they act like if they start to go out, if fuel can leak in. Did notice a little when I first looked at it, but it leaks more now that I've run it for a while. I'll clean it off more and see, can't tell if it's leaking out the little pump lever too. Is it "safe" to run it this way as long as I check oil? It seems to start/run fine so it is at least pumping ok with the tank at about 1/4. 2, left "driver's side" remote (only 2 sets) has a leak that's "decent". Guy that delivered it said it needed o'rings, and probably best to have help putting the thing back on to not ruin them (which I don't have help of course, and it's pretty obvious that it's o'rings which I already knew). Is there a kit to order/more than one/a better one/one to avoid (I can research that)? It is much worse than it was when I looked at it, they hooked up the loader to that remote, possibly made it worse because the loader is heavy, plus all the weights were in it, and lifted the duals off the truck with it, etc. Seems to leak when not in use, not a steady stream but an amount seems to come out. I replaced the o'rings in the valves of my old Oliver before without issue. There is a third set of outlets, they just connect to the back of this outlet, one hose has a valve lever on it. It connects to a flatter block that isn't painted green, sandwiched behind the outlet assembly, don't know if what they are screwed into is an add on, haven't looked that close, can't see well in this pic but the whole thing is wet and running down the sides.

Other annoying things, they changed wheel spacing for me, front axle one of the bolts was new, they pounded it in apparently, wrecked the threads, and left that one without a nut. Don't have a threader that size. Things I didn't notice when I looked at it to buy. As I'm looking at the rear tires, I think the only thing holding them up is the fluid. Initially thought they might just be a little low. I pull the caps off and they run out fluid immediately, and no pressure it seems other than the weight of tractor, no signs of external leaks. I hate fluid filled tires. Thinking I could just replace the inside stems, but based on past experience, the way both tires look, the fact that I didn't see leaked fluid out the valve stems (if they went low by leaking out the stem, should be a little fluid/deposits around the stem/cap) guessing if I put air in, they might inflate, but I'm suspecting the tubes might have holes in them as well. I ran one acting this way, losing pressure without signs of leaks, found out I was running tubeless, tube came loose, air and fluid was in tire, didn't notice until external leak out the tire, it was inflating and looking fine before that, didn't have to put in air often.... Also, the bottom bolts next to the pto that hold the piece that holds the drawbar up (flat heads that are flush, covered partly by the blocks that the arms swing against), one is completely loose, and the other is still in there, but the end is completely broken off, so just the one loose bolt on the one side. And the minor thing, missing the little ball from the end of the 3 point top link (they were using it with a 3 point dirt dragger/scaper thing at the dealership). Other than that, it "sounds" ok, drives without grinding, etc.
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Yes it appears the lift pump packing is leaking. That's simple enough to repair. The unpainted block in your photo is a JD power beyond block.

R48399 Washer - PACKING,FUEL PUMP ADD 1.26 USD
2 ea- F2741R Packing - PACKING ADD 3.04 USD 6.08 USD
2 ea-R40922 Back-Up Ring - BACK-UP RING ADD 4.75 USD 9.50 USD
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On the tubes, yes, replace the stems, easy job if they twist off
correctly. Park with the stem at the high point, have your
compressor ready and you will need 3 hands
 
Thanks. Pretty simple I know, see a leak, fix it, but just wanted to be sure there weren't more issues or springs shooting out when taking it apart or a kit that fails sooner than another. Last night couldn't even find the parts diagrams by googling, which I can usually do easily, but I looked like two minutes after chores. Didn't even get to town to get hydraulic fluid and it's borderline low now. I think it's a holiday tomorrow? so I guess I'm not getting much done with buying parts. Wish they would have stores open every day, it's not like there isn't always work to do.

Tires, yes. I've never had a stem come apart right. Tire guy broke off the last one too. Sometimes I can get the caps to hold "good enough", not right I know. I think I will inflate them and see what they do. When it hasn't been here, don't know how it's losing air or how fast, which made me suspect the internal leak out the tube like my other tractor, especially since both have pretty much 0 pressure to measure on a gauge (which they did not look this flat when I was down there). But if it holds air without going flat, I can run it that way a while. I'm going to take the drawbar apart and see what bolts I need there, doubt I have any laying around that are right.
 
(reply to post at 08:49:04 08/31/14)

The guide bolts(parts key 18) for sway blocks have been known to break also.
14H1040 Nut - NUT, HEX ADD 0.76 USD 1.52 USD
14H1039 Nut - NUT, HEX ADD 1.43 USD 2.86 USD
R101202 Bolt - BOLT, SPECIAL PLOW ADD 6.17 USD 12.34 USD
R42440 Screw - SCREW, SPECIAL ADD 4.13 USD 8.26 USD
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