i give up anybody want to blow up a cub?

ericlb

Well-known Member
this cub is making me crazy, here the deal, this thing will run just fine, as long as its just the tractor driving by itself,and as long as i dont use more than 1/2 throttle, but when i run the mower [ danco c-2] the tractor will cut out and quit sometimes it takes 15 minutes, sometimes it takes 15 seconds, moving the throttle back and forth rapidly will make it try to recover, so its fuel related, i think, now over the last year i have gone thru this thing, for this problem, which came with the tractor i guess, it has a new carb,, the old one acted exactly the same, new fuel line, new sediment bowl, fuel tank cleaned out and looks great,by gravity the fuel tank will; empty in about 5 minutes thru its 5/16th line, so it has flow, on the mag, everything other than the actual housing is brand new, didnt change a thing, new plugs numerous times, new steel core wires, shoot there just isnt anything else left to work on, so what am i missing, its shut down now and i need this thing tommorrow, but i just dont know what else to fix, maybe just blow it up?
 
Hi
I just read the list of what you did, But didn't read anything about touching the governor.
I think thats about all you haven't done!. Maybe thats worn and don't work properly. Could be the weights are sticking, busted spring or something else in there .
never worked on one so an educated guess thats why it won't run the mower. its not sensing it need to open up and give more power. My opinion is worth what you paid for it L.O.L.
Maybe others will say the same.
Regards Robert
 
start it up and spray some either around the intake manifold were it meets the block,sounds like a leak there
 
that was my answer too.

Governor linkage binding can cause a real headache - not sure on the cubs, but I know for a fact it can on the A's.

It can be very hard to diagnose, especially if it's an intermittent problem.

But at least check it out - see if you can find anything suspicious
 
Sounds like it could be a vibration related electrical problem. Changing the throttle position changes the vibration...

May be something related to the seat switch since it only happens when the PTO is on.

Find the mag kill wire where it goes into the engine and disconnect it for a test.
 
"will run just fine, as long as its just the tractor driving by itself,
and as long as i dont use more than 1/2 throttle"

What happens when you use more than 1/2 throttle without the mower?
Try disconnecting the linkage from the carb and run it by hand
or with a stiff piece of wire from the seat. How does it act then?
You will have to do all the corrections manually and be careful
not to overspeed the engine. Love those little flat heads. :)
 
I will second a couple of the others subjestions.

1) Check the governor for sticking linkage and then adjust it.

2) I would try a known "good" coil. Weak spark can mimic a lean fuel problem under load. I have had several JD 3020-4020 gas tractors over the years act like a fuel issue when it was a bad coil.
 
any chance you could find a good running magneto to borrow. switch it out with yours just to prove that the problem isnt the mag. you do have it timed correctly? sounds like a heating issue to me,coil,condenser, wire close and shorting. disconnect the kill switch wire also till you figure it out.
 
Ive run Cubs for years, from an original '47 to a '75, and I never had one with a seat switch. Sounds like maybe you're confusing it with a Cub Cadet, or maybe a 154/184/185 Cub Lo-Boy.
 
I don"t think so, I have the only 2 cubs ive ever seen around here and the other is a burned out parts tractor, [very burned], but it seems to me after playing some more that the new carb doesn"t have much gas in the bowl, I checked the main jet which was fine, but is it possible that im actually pulling the float bowl dry under full load? what can I do about that?
 
without checking mine I think there is a 1/8 pipe plug or a brass plug in the bottom of the float bowl? take it out and how fast does the gas flow out? that will tell you how fast its running into the float bowl. mine drove me nuts for a year there is a very fine passage in the carb for the low speed make sure you have it clean.I had the carb off a number of times before i found it.and it ran similar to yours.
 
On the left hand side, up near the radiator, there is a linkage from the gov to the carb. On that linkage, there is a shaft going into the gov. That shaft has a slip over collar with a keyway. That keyway and shaft wear down. if you take the shaft off the gov, clean the bear snot out of the inner shaft, dont' drop the keyway. Then clean the other half. use some red locktite.

put it back together. This is a common problem. It will run fie, but as soon as the governor tries tocompensate, the car linkage reacts slowly, then it jus tdumps the fuel to it.


So, do what I said, and you can check the play on the shaft with engine off.


there should be no play. if there I, do eh red locktite repair, then reset to the carb tot eh gov linkage via the manual. ta da! fixed.



Do that.


I over simplified it, but just googleabout what I said, you will get many hits. common problem...
 
I have a farmall A that ran goofy. Sometimes it would behave and mostly did what it wanted. It turned out that the shaft of the butterfly above the carb had come free from the linkage that controlled it. A quick brazing job and I was back in business.
 
plenty of fuel flow, to the carb its clean and the float is adjusted I think, now, but what bothers me is there just doesn't seem to be much gas in there when I pulled the plug out of the bottom I got like 2 tablespoons worth of gas , still thinking when the mower is running and the tractor is driving I may be pulling the float bowl dry,
 
Go over to onlycubcadets dot com, join up and post your issues. Lots of cub experts over there.
 
wait, are we talking about a farmall cub, or a cub cadet?


regardless...


did you check the linkage from the governor? it can flood the carb out really easy if it is over-reacting from being loose. I had this same problem. It drove me nuts. Some locktite on the end of the shaft and no more problems. Also, every time you take the carb off, or the manifold, you are supposed to readjust the linkage from the governor. Did you do that?


I can't remember the exact procedure, but basically, with engine off, you crack the throttle 3/4 of the way or just over half(can't remember) and then take the pin out of the clevis(the front clevis near the radiator), open the throttle wide open on the carb, then adjust the clevis until the hole lines up. put pin back. done.

It's pretty simple to do, but it is very important.
 
we're talking about a 1949 cub farm tractor not a rubber belt drive cub cadet riding lawn mower
 

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