MF-135.. bypass oil filter conversion kit

Tried this on the massey forum..now I"ll try here.....I have a 1966 MF-135 with a z145 engine..I bought a spin on oil/filter kit...but it is a bypass filter...Its a fram...seems very light and cheap...am I better off just leaving the original canister filter on? Thanks, Keith

In my opinion, there is nothing wrong with bypass. It's there for a reason. When oil is cold and can't flow through filter freely, it will by-pass filter element and still supply oil to engine, a good thing.

As for converting over to a spin on filter. I have a Jubilee with spin on filter that has issues. When tractor sits for a few days, more than half the oil drains back to engine. You can see it on the dip stick. You can take filter off and see that over 60% of the oil is missing.

I'm not 100% sure my problem is. I've tried many different filters. I'm not sure my problem is the way the conversion kit was installed.

I notice it takes about 10 seconds to fill filter and build oil pressure. My engine was totally rebuilt before I bought it. Engine runs great, uses no oil. Some say there may be something wrong inside, however I'm not taking the engine apart to find out. Instead, I use full synthetic oil, thinking synthetic gives me better dry engine start up.

I just changed my oil and this time I found the smallest Delco filter that will fit. It too drains back, but because it's smaller I have less oil to put back in filter. It 4 seconds before I notice oil pressure gauge move.

I wish my tractor was never converted over.

I have a farmall C with the old can filter. I really don't see why I would ever want to convert it over to a spin on filter.

Don't worry about a bypass relief valve, good thing. Worry about drain back. If you do convert, post back. I would like to know if it drains back.
George

George, would it be possible or practical to mount a remote filter? Mount it lower or at least with the filter hanging down, even put a check valve in the line to stop drain back.

I have personally witnessed a MF 135 diesel engine that was ruined because they changed it over to a spin on and the filter got torn while using a bush hog. None of my tractors have a spin on and none of them will as long as I can get still get the canister filters. Why mess with what works?

Never heard of doing that. If anything, I would go back to the OEM can filter first and see if that doesn't fix the problem.

By using a smaller sized filter, it's cut my dry starting time in half.

Next filter will be even smaller if I can find one that will fit. I think GMC uses a tiny filter on v6 truck, So I don't think size matters that much as long as I change oil every 75 hours, use synthetic and the numbers cross.

I don't understand how putting a spin on kit changes it to just a bypass filter? The oil still has to go through the same inlet and outlet as the canister filter. Maybe the original is a bypass too? Some spin on filters do have a bypass valve in them so they they can still allow oil to flow even if the filter gets plugged. Maybe you're over thinking it?