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Farmall H

B

Bill Braniger

Member
Having trouble connecting new steel fuel line to fuel bowl assembly. Female thread in bowl want to strip before line nut squeezes ferrule enough to
stay on the fuel line.
Any helpful suggestions?
 
Sometimes you may just replace bowl. Sometimes it may be a good idea to cut line, use fuel line hose to make the line more flexiable.

Helped a friend worked on his Massey. Because of vibrations, the place on tank that the bowl threads in to, cracked at the tank. We installed a flex line and repaired the tank with a gas type epoxy.
 
If you're using a nut with the ferrule being part of the nut I've also had that trouble. I just used a nut with a brass ferrule and it worked good.
 
George, Yep. I just ruined a new one today, stripped the treads. I"m thinking if I use a softer copper fuel line, rather than the harder steel, it might seat the ferrule on the copper better. What do you think?
 
I think you can buy a fitting to JB weld into the stripped hole and save buying the complete part. Start and turn several turns with fingers before using wrench. Yep! I have ruined a few too.
 
This guy also needed a new bowl, we stripped the threads, not to mention cracked gas tank because of solid steel line.
 
You need to have the line disconnected from the carb so you can hand thread into the sediment assy. Then with the car NOT bolted down thread it hand tight then move the carb to its mount and tighten the carb to the manifold. I always do them that way to avoid stripping the threads in the sediment bulb assy
 
I have a brand new bowl assembly.
The metal is so soft in it that the treads won't take much. If there is a fitting that can be JB welded into it, that would be perfect.
 
The new fuel bowls are not of Quality.I buy a new universal brakeline with the same size fittings as the fuel bowl.they are double flared already and seal nicely.I cut them in two and have enough for another tractor.I just connect that with a short rubber hose to the original line
works good for me
 
H gas tank is kind of spring mounted, so it does move a bit. I put an anti-vibration loop in the fuel line to compensate for movement. Carefully straighten the bowl the thread with a tap, screw in the fitting with a bit of sealer on it. Then be sure to prevent the fitting from turning with a wrench when you tighten the ferrule. Always worked for me.
 
I would take a good bowl to Menards, NAPA or auto parts place and see if I couldn't get a brass fitting with 1/4 inch gas hose barb on the end. Then clamp gas hose to the steel line.

Not sure if you can get a brass fitting that will seal to the inside flare. I would see if I couldn't get brass fitting to seal with teflon. If that failed to seal, I would get some epoxy designes for gas and use as thread sealer.
Good luck,
George
 
Bill,
Take a new bowl to auto parts store and see if a steel brake line won't thread in. Both use a double flare. Then use short piece of brake line and connect to old gas line with gas hose.
Let us know what works.

I replaced most of my steel gas line with gas hose. Just use a short piece of steel at carb and a short piece of steel at bowl. The reason I went with hose is Ford's better idea was to clamp the steel gas line to the engine head. I was having a vapor locking problem.
George
 
You should not be using steel line/ferrule with a softer metal. It takes too much pressure to compress a steel ferrule to make the seal.

For aluminum, pewter, "pot metal", and softer carb and fuel bowl alloys, you should be using a flared fitting. Less pressure required to make the seal, and you do not have to compress a STEEL ferrule with a softer metal. For fuel lines, flared copper line with a brass gland nut is ideal.
 
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