JD 2950 cab tractor clutch does not return

Hey, I'm back again with the same tractor.
About a year ago we replaced the seal kits and rod assemblies in both the slave and master cylinders before finding an air leak in one of the hoses.
This afternoon I was mowing grass etc. with the tractor and thought I noticed a couple times that the clutch seemed weak when it pushed back at me when I released the clutch. It felt normal going in, but seemed to hang back coming out.
This happened a couple times in the space of a half-hour. I depressed the clutch one time, it felt normal, but did not return. It stuck to the floor, but gradually creeped up. I could lift the pedal with my toe, but that did not engage the engine.
If I took my foot off a fully depressed clutch it would take about 30 secs for it to creep back out and engage the engine.

So I parked it. I don't really know whats wrong, but the brake fluid level is up, and there has been no air-fluid leak that I can see.
I've dodged splitting it once already, hoping I'll be so fortunate a second time.

I probably have the same clutch on a 3055. Never had that problem. Then again I had my local JD do a 2750 hour service couple of years ago. clutch itself is dry so check for broken, or stretched return springs on the pedal. I have the parts, service, & owners manuals for the 3055; but doesn"t cover anything close to what you are having! Might call & ask a dealer on Monday too.

There's a clutch pedal spring(parts key 6) as previously mentioned.

The spring on the clutch pedal is just fine. The pedal is rigged so that the spring tension pulls it to the floor when its depressed, but halfway up it begins pulling it up again and that part is fine.
I can pull the pedal back up but if I push down on it there is nothing there until I re-contact the guts of the master cylinder with the push-rod on the pedal.
And it doesn't stick to the floor every time. The first time I depress the clutch if its been sitting for a few mins it works almost normal. The second depress sticks to the floor, then creeps back up.
Any tips would be appreciated!

P.S the 2950 is a wet clutch

The clutch pressure plate spring action should push the the slave and master back,
By the way you explain what is happening i would say the problem lies with either the slave cyl (badly scored piston) or the master cyl( swollen cup closing off fluid return hole or something)
I vote for the master cyl.

(quoted from post at 10:19:08 06/29/14)

P.S the 2950 is a wet clutch

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Incorrect the 2950 has a dry clutch.

Apologies. The 2950 cab tractor is a wet clutch, and that is what ours is.
I would be reluctant to pin the blame on either the slave or master cylinders simply because I had them both apart last summer and the guts replaced.
In the same breath I'd much rather work on those first, if I can avoid splitting to replace the diaphragm springs.

(quoted from post at 13:34:58 06/29/14) Apologies. The 2950 cab tractor is a wet clutch, and that is what ours is.
[b:1878c3446e] I would be reluctant to pin the blame on either the slave or master cylinders simply because I had them both apart last summer and the guts replaced[/b:1878c3446e].
In the same breath I'd much rather work on those first, if I can avoid splitting to replace the diaphragm springs.

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Won't be the first time parts don't last.
Make sure the pedal push pin has a bit of play in the master cylinder, it the piston is prevented from bottoming out on the return stroke the cup might still cover the return hole to the tank preventing fluid bleed back.
I had that happen on the brakes on a wheel loader.(brakes stayed on)
Only other thing i can think of is the throw out bearing housing cocks on its support sleeve on the way back.

(quoted from post at 16:34:58 06/29/14) Apologies. The 2950 cab tractor is a wet clutch, and that is what ours is.

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No apologizes required. Your 2950 cab tractor and the remainder 2950's built by JD had a DRY CLUTCH operated(controlled) by 2 hyd cylinders but it's far from a true WET CLUTCH that requires hyd pressure from a hyd pump for engagement. Sorry but that's the way it is.

(quoted from post at 18:30:48 06/29/14)...but it's far from a true WET CLUTCH that requires hyd pressure from a hyd pump for engagement.

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Oh, I see. My ignorance talking there.
It is entirely possible that one and/or both cylinders were set wrong when I put them back in, and that would cause premature wear etc.
However, if the master cyl was not allowing bleed-back would the clutch have worked at all since I put it back on? I suppose it could have shifted...

Thanks for your input

(quoted from post at 18:34:48 06/29/14)

(quoted from post at 18:30:48 06/29/14)...but it's far from a true WET CLUTCH that requires hyd pressure from a hyd pump for engagement.

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Oh, I see. My ignorance talking there.
It is entirely possible that one and/or both cylinders were set wrong when I put them back in, and that would cause premature wear etc.
However, if the master cyl was[b:23d8eb029d] not allowing bleed-back[/b:23d8eb029d] would the clutch have worked at all since I put it back on? I suppose it could have shifted...

Thanks for your input

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ell it is possible to work the clutch pedal fast and pump fluid in the slave cylinder till it bottoms the clutch out and upon release of the pedal most of the excess of the trapped fluid can't drain back if the return orifice is blocked off leaving the clutch still disengaged.
If you have a steel braided hose in between the slave and the master it is possible that the rubber inside has come loose and works like a valve...letting fluid past but not flow back or only slowly.I WOULD CHECK THAT HOSE if it has one.
It sometimes happens with these rubber lined hoses on brakes, fuel and hydraulics as well.

Another possibility is broken pressure plate bolt. Look inside clutch housing inspection hole at PP.

Well, I had a look at it this morning and tried the clutch. It works absolutely like normal. Drove it around the yard and noticed nothing.
I forgot to mention one thing before. When I parked it the other day, I felt the cylinders. The slave was almost to hot to touch, and the master was also quite warm.
It is working fine now, but I still might take the cylinders off and then bleed it again.

(quoted from post at 11:57:04 06/30/14) Well, I had a look at it this morning and tried the clutch. It works absolutely like normal. Drove it around the yard and noticed nothing.
I forgot to mention one thing before. When I parked it the other day, I felt the cylinders. [b:4a7b4b047d]The slave was almost to hot to touch[/b:4a7b4b047d], and the master was also quite warm.
It is working fine now, but I still might take the cylinders off and then bleed it again.

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lave piston seizing up??

Quite possible. It'd be interesting to see exactly what it is/was as soon as I get time again