Baler Update!

Well, I went out and strung it just like you guys said. Then turned the spike wheel until the knotters tripped, then I went around front and turned the flywheel.

The needles came up (with the twine) and then when they reached the top, something grabbed the twine, and the needles went back down, I then walked around back and the garbage pieces of twine had been cut, but there was like one thin strand left on each one, and when I just barely tugged on them, it broke and they came off. Sooo, as far as I can tell everything is OK! Now I am working on replacing the springs on the hay holders underneath/behind the knotter assembly. Both are broken, however there were two spares in the tool box on the baler, so it is all good!

Do I need to try to get a grinder to the knives to sharpen them up, or do they sound ok? Thanks again, hopefully I will be bailing a little bit this afternoon, might try to make a run to get some hay now! Bryce

If the twine cut that well, I would leave well enough alone. Make sure when you replace the "hay dogs" back in with the new springs that they work freely, those are very important, I am not completely familiar with that particular baler, however there should also be one that stops the plunger when the needles are in the chamber, if that one is not working and anything gets out of time, your needles will be snapped in two. If you have a neighbor or someone close that knows balers to look it over before you start feeding it, it could save you hundreds.... Good luck!

Sharpen the knives with a good fine stone or replace them for new. They should cut the twine just by pulling it straight through without sliding sideways on the knives they must be as sharp as a good razor.

I think this is the best advice you can get.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Holland-68-Hayliner-Baler-Operators-Owners-Guide-Book-Manual-NH-OEM-/310990602347?pt=BI_Heavy_

I've got one of those!! Infact, the one I have is the ORIGINAL that came brand new with the baler... Pretty cool huh?!!?

I will have to have a look and see what it says about the knives... Could I just reach in there with a flat file and clean them up a little bit? They feel fairly sharp as they are... Bryce

They need to be RAZOR sharp, not "fairly sharp" and you can't achieve that with a file or a grinder. Either of those will make the blades less sharp...

So then what do I need to do?

Are we talking twine knives or plunger? The twine ones need razor sharpness, the plunger ones not so much. Only use hand grinder on plunger knives if they are rough shape, other wise remove and get done at saw shop or careful on a bench grinder. Lots of times they are so beat up a hand grinder won't make them any worse and as long you are baling dry the shimming of the plunger will matter more.

With no hay in the chamber to help hold the twine I think it did an excellent job. I'd wait until you run a few bales thru it before attempting to sharpen the twine knives.

The twine knife needs to be real sharp and no, not with a file or grinder. You have to take the bolts holding the bottom of the knotters out and carefully flip them up, watch your fingers. Then when you can see the twine knife you take an abrasive stone or rod or paper on a push rod or something like that and carefully sharpen the knife till it's a sharp as you can get it.

The plunger knife you need to either crawl inside the feed chamber and take the knife out or you can try sharpening it in place with a grinder. It's really easier to take it out. When you're in there messing with it, take a look at the shear plate and that you can sharpen with your grinder or file. No one ever sharpens the shear plate but its half the "scissors" that make the cut. The knife you want to sharpen following the original angle if you can. It's a pretty steep angle and you want it that way because it has to be tough.

When you go to put the knife back in you may well need new bolts. Most places will sell you plow bolts for that, but the right bolt is a plow bolt shape that takes a heavy allen wrench. Much easier to tighten if you can get them. And you want the knife bolts TIGHT. When it is, you need to set the clearance to specs. Too much clearance gives you a very ragged cut and takes a lot more power. Spend some time loosening up the lock screws. Be careful or you'll bust them. Get some never seize on them and the lock nuts. Make sure you check for clearance at top and bottom. Sometimes the runners wear so that the knife has more or less clearance between top and bottom. You want to fix that. Swab or spray lots of old drain oil into the bale chamber so the runners get lubed, even wood needs lube.