Wiring diagram

Can anyone tell me how to wire a push button trans starter on a Ford 961 diesel which has an alternator with regulator inside and has two solenoids? It has a 12 volt system with neg. ground and ammeter instead of fuel gauge.

What are you calling "two solenoids"?

The starter push button is nothing more than a grounding button. It grounds the wire when pushed. Because of this you need the correct relay. Ford part # 311006. This interchanges to Napa ECH ST542 or BWD S103. Armed with these part #'s you can get the proper relay at any parts store; but they may have to order it.

The relay needs keyed power to one small post and the other small post gets hooked to the starter button.



Now for the complete wiring diagram.
We will have to assume you are using a Delco 10si alternator. Very popular for this conversion.
I will have to show you a wiring diagram from a earlier model tractor since you have replaced the fuel gauge with a amp gauge; but will tell you the differences so you can make it work.



I showed you this diagram because it shows the amp gauge where as your tractor used a idiot light from the factory and replaced the amp gauge with a fuel gauge.
It uses a 12 volt coil Napa part # IC14SB. If you want to use your original 6 volt coil you will have to add a 12 volt to 6 volt resistor inline just before the coil.
The only difference in this diagram and your correct diagram is the starter relay. This one shows only one small post where as your later tractor has two small post.
Just follow this diagram and add a wire from the second small post on the relay to the terminal block post that is marked "switched"

john in la,
that second diagram is for a gas engine, harley asked about a diesel. it's possible that the second solenoid is for the glow plugs. that is what i'm setting up on my MF TO-35 diesel, i didn't want to pay $100. plus for a glow plug control switch (timer/solenoid) so i added a solenoid that im going to hook to an ignition switch with accessory option and an idiot light (i should get the switch monday and i'll take some pics) so i am going to use the accessory option for the glow plug. for example to start it: i turn the key right to acc for 60 to 90 seconds to warm the glow plug and then left to start the motor. just saying

(quoted from post at 02:39:11 06/22/14) john in la,
that second diagram is for a gas engine, harley asked about a diesel. it's possible that the second solenoid is for the glow plugs. that is what i'm setting up on my MF TO-35 diesel, i didn't want to pay $100. plus for a glow plug control switch (timer/solenoid) so i added a solenoid that im going to hook to an ignition switch with accessory option and an idiot light (i should get the switch monday and i'll take some pics) so i am going to use the accessory option for the glow plug. for example to start it: i turn the key right to acc for 60 to 90 seconds to warm the glow plug and then left to start the motor. just saying

Click to expand...

All of the ignition switches I've installed the "ACC" connection on the switch is on when the switch is in the run position. So for your idea to work you would have to turn the switch off once the engine was running. What might work would be a marine ignition switch. Most of those have a feature where you push the key in to activate the electric choke. So you could hook one of those up where you turn to the run position, push and hold the key in for your 60 second warm up, then release and run the key to start. AC did use a key switch that you turned left to pre heat the manifold heater then turn right to start.

Rick

jennifer408
I read diesel and it must of went in one eye and out the other cause I sure did not comprehend that part.
First I agree with oldtanker. ACC is connected when a key is in run position so your glow plugs will always be on. You need to do something different.

Now to clean up the topic for the original poster.

Sorry Harley
I did not comprehend diesel so let me try to clean this up a little.

Yes your diesel could use 2 relays. One for starting and one for glow plugs.
I am going to take the diagram below and change a few things. It will be very crude but bear with me cause it takes hours to draw a diagram that looks pretty.

I added a wire from your second post on your starter relay that we talked about in my last response.
I removed the coil and distributor cause you have a diesel and added the glow plugs.
You will need to add a push button switch in the dash to activate this second relay.

1) you run a jumper battery cable from one relay to the second.
2) you run a battery cable from second relay to glow plugs
3) you run a 12 gauge wire from terminal block (switched side) to one post on push button you added in dash
4) you run a 12 gauge wire from second post on push button to small post on relay.
5) from second small post on relay you run a 12 gauge wire to a good ground

I drew all this in color so you would not confuse it with the original diagram.

I must warn you. For this to work properly you MUST use the relays I spoke of and gave you part numbers for in the original response.

All of the ignition switches I've installed the "ACC" connection on the switch is on when the switch is in the run position. So for your idea to work you would have to turn the switch off once the engine was running. What might work would be a marine ignition switch. Most of those have a feature where you push the key in to activate the electric choke. So you could hook one of those up where you turn to the run position, push and hold the key in for your 60 second warm up, then release and run the key to start. AC did use a key switch that you turned left to pre heat the manifold heater then turn right to start.

Rick[/quote]ttps://forumphotos.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/mvphoto8209.jpg[/img]

I wish you luck in finding the switch you describe. Any 4 position ignition switches I have seen work like the picture.

Thanks john in La. When I bought this tractor it was made up of about different tractors. It started as a select-o-speed then they changed it to a 5 speed transmission, messed up all the wiring. they didn't want to buy a temp gauge so they filled the temp port in the head with liquid weld. they welded everything and anything that needed replaced instead of replacing it and filled the transmission with sawdust, just to name a few things! I am trying to get it back into reasonable shape but the wiring has me stumped. I will try your diagram tomorrow and let you know how it works. thanks again, Harley