Sickle Mower Teeth?

Bryce Frazier · Jun 13, 2014

Hi all, we are going into town to go dancing, and mom said that we could go to Big R for a minute, and I have a quick question about sickle mower teeth! I have a Ford 501, and have decided to just replace all of the teeth on it. I bought some.

I just realized that there are several different kinds!! Most importantly thought, I want to know whether I should get top or bottom side serrated teeth?

ALL of my guards have little saw like ripples on the sides of them, but are flat on the top where the BOTTOM of the sickle section would ride.

I think that I should get bottom side, just because that was what were on it!

I am not planing on using it a lot, but I do want it to look/work nice! Bryce

Bryce Frazier · Jun 13, 2014

Oops, please ignore the "I bought some" at the end of the first paragraph, I started rambling away from the point and stopped, but didn't erase! Bryce

kathleen kanzler · Jun 13, 2014

If you are replacing all the sections, it most likely is cheaper to buy whole new knife. check your store for prices

Bryce Frazier · Jun 13, 2014

It's $12 for 10 sickles, I need 24. A whole sickle bar is $255, riveted or bolted, PLUS shipping?!!? Bryce

Greg K · Jun 13, 2014

Is it possible the the guards have ledger plates in them? These are the replaceable knife that is on the guard. These could maybe be the serrated part of the guard that you refer to? I personally would go with the top serrated knives. That way when they dull up you can sharpen them with a 4" grinder using a cutting disc while it is still on the tractor.

the flying belgian · Jun 13, 2014

I just asked my dealer that very question. He said--bottom serrated for grass, top serrated for alfalfa.

Traditional Farmer · Jun 13, 2014

Go to Webbs Sickle Service website it has everything you'll need and explains which type sickle section (not teeth) you need.I'd go with a whole new blade his blades are better than original equipment.Also has a printed catalog with lots of information.

redforlife · Jun 13, 2014

Sections are half of your cutting edge, the gaurds are the other half. They both need to be in good condition and sharp. If not, it won't cut good. Also need to have good wear plates and hold downs (not worn out). I use and get along great with top serrated sections, and the smooth non-serrated guards. I cut several types of grass and alfalfa.

waltdavies · Jun 13, 2014

Always get the bottom serrated because they can be sharpened with Small offset grinder. The top serratted are finnished when dull.
Walt

Hal/ Eastern WA · Jun 13, 2014

If you need guards, I would suggest taking one with you to make sure that the replacement is EXACTLY the same. I had bad luck buying guards at Big R. The ones I bought LOOKED like they were the same, but would not fit. The bold hole was slightly too close to the ridge. I ended up going to New Holland to get guards that would fit right on my 501.

Sickle sections were easier to find, and the ones I got at Big R worked just fine. You going to use bolts to fasten them on, or rivets? Bolts seem easier, but I have always used rivets. Kind of old school.

While you are there, you might consider getting some wear plates too. New wear plates really helped my mower. Good luck!

GordoSD · Jun 14, 2014

The proper rule of thumb is : serrated "teeth" they are called "sections" for smooth guards, and serrated section for smooth guards. If you have serrated on serrated then you are cutting ragged edge like pinking shearers.

sammydwm · Jun 14, 2014

(quoted from post at 23:23:41 06/13/14) If you are replacing all the sections, it most likely is cheaper to buy whole new knife. check your store for prices

Where do you buy your whole knives? I want to get some if they are cheaper than a pack of sections and rivets....

Leroy · Jun 14, 2014

We always run serated to bottom serated and neve had a problem. Only after we quit making hay and was on this site for several years did I ever hear that. Does not make sence to me. I started out with the horse mowers on up to a Case 555 mower-conditioner.

Leroy · Jun 14, 2014

Smooth is for grass, what the county always used on the road mowers, bottom for all hay and top is only for dry like wheat straw on combine.

Anonymous-0 · Jun 14, 2014

When I was a kid working in my family's Farmall garage, we carried the IH under-serrated knife sections, the smooth sections, guards, and ledger plates to replace bad ones on the guards. Back then guards were relatively cheap, so only the farmers who were real tightwads bought new ledger plates. We also stocked the Herschel triple-V end section, because it was popular with the local farmers.

Grand-dad had a sickle knife grinder with a V-shaped stone, and he could sharpen a mower knife in short order. He also had a section replacement tool that fit in the bench vise...set the knife, the rivets and the new section in place and pull the lever, and the rivet job was perfect every time.

But in the spring when we were really busy, sometimes Pap would put me to work with the McCormick section replacement tool, a sharp cold chisel, a thin punch to remove the chiseled-off rivets, and the punch with the concave end to "finish" the rivets. As a 10 or 12 year old kid, I learned a lot about what's now "antique" farm equipment repair methods.

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