BRUSHHOG BRAND 7 FT

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
any you guys own a brushhog brand brushhog 7 ft. pull type.i have one and it makes a ugly cut especially where the tractor tires knock down the grass the taller the grass the worse.i have a ih 6ft 3-p0int hog that makes a beautifull cut.maybe I will try new blades before I get mad and cut it up for scrap
RICK
 
I have never owned that model but I own and have owned several brands/models of rough cut rotary mowers. All have various advantages and disadvantages.

In general, rough cut mowers will cut better with sharp blades (yes, I know not recommended, but sharp blades do cut better), adequate blade tip speed and reasonable ground speed.

Most will leave some where the tractor wheels push the grass over, especially on the left side as the blade is moving rearward on the left. This will likely be more pronounced with a pull type mower due to the additional mower wheels.

Sharpen and/or replace the blades, set the mower as close to the ground as possible, keep the blade speed up and the ground speed down to minimize such. Overlaping a bit on the next round will usually eliminate the tracks.

Dean
 
(quoted from post at 07:29:32 06/01/14) any you guys own a brushhog brand brushhog 7 ft. pull type.i have one and it makes a ugly cut especially where the tractor tires knock down the grass the taller the grass the worse.i have a ih 6ft 3-p0int hog that makes a beautifull cut.maybe I will try new blades before I get mad and cut it up for scrap
RICK
he most heavy duty cutters were designed to cut brush/small trees/etc., [u:07bef7747e]not[/u:07bef7747e] for mowing grass. The major difference is the ratio in the gear box, in addition to overall rugged construction. A good grass mower has a blade tip speed of about 16,000 feet per minute or nearly 200MPH, whereas the brush cutter will be closer to 10,000 fpm.
Different machines for different purposes!
 
Take a look at the blades. Did someone sharpen them wrong. They should CUT and Lift the grass. I have seen them when someone put a grinder to the bottom side of the blade without taking them off.
 
One problem that most brush cutters have is that the tips of the blades tend to rise up due to warp blade carriers. Some blades actually scrape the top deck. In these cases you are actually cutting with the heel of the blades and not the tips. The more the blades are held down the better it can cut.
 
Here is a thought. My neighbor has exactly what you have and he was experiencing the same problems. I told him that trying to mow grass with one was a mistake, however, I sharpened his knives all the way to a "cut your finger" edge. He mowed his field this year with much better results. A very slow speed allows the grass to stand up a little better after the tractor runs over it. Good luck, Ellis
 
I agree with others who say Bush Hog is better built and will hold up longer. I mow and hog with a six foot, sharp blades help but you also get a better cut with the deck tilted up just a bit in the front.
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You cite ONE example as empirical evidence.

I own and operate a commercial mowing business where we mow highway right-of-ways. My crews/mowers collectively log over 15,000 hours a year. About 1/3rd is with single spindle 6', or 7' mowers, plus a couple 8' twin spindle cutters. Early on, when I was getting the business up and running, I used Woods mowers primarily. My yearly repair cost was in excess of original purchase cost on many of the mowers I mentioned. I've since changed over to Bush Hog and Shulte brand mowers and have cut repair cost to less than 1/10th over the cost of the Woods mowers. This is based on (currently) 12 mowers and more hours in a season than most mowers see in a lifetime of personal use.

The Woods mowers I owned didn't even make it through second season of commercial use. (BB7200's, BB8400's) I have several 300 and 400 series Bush Hog mowers that are currently in 7th season with no signs of fatigue or failure.

When comparing batwing mowers, the advantage goes even more disproportionately to Bush Hog/Shulte/Rhino (Alamo Brand) Woods very best batwings don't compare to Bush Hogs lightest duty batwings.

It only took ONE Deere batwing to cross them off the list permanently.
 
Dunno.
I have a 6' model 406 BH®
Weighs 1500 lbs and single gearbox is suitable for 125 HP
I doubt I'll ever break anything on it with my puny tractors.

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BushHog.jpg
 
I've got several of that exact same mower, used primarily on the rear of 80hp tractors. You won't find a more abusive mowing situation than mowing rural road right-of-ways. Those mowers are as close to bulletproof as any mower I've ever been around.
 
I had a 5' model 405 for about 10 years that I got with a tractor I bought and really thought a lot of it. It was old and had been run hard but still worked perfectly.
I put one U joint and new blades (I broke one) in it in the time I had it.
But wanted a wider one to go on a bigger tractor.
I found this one on Craigslist in Iowa one morning last spring for $650 and about broke the land speed record going down there to fetch it before someone beat me to it.
It's a nice low houred machine and the seller had even repainted it.
I only have 52 HP in front of it so it should last me untill I go to the big Bush Hog Dealer in the sky.
I sold the 5' for $650 so just had gas money in the upgrade.
Here's the 405 up at the lake.

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best results I get are remove the safety chains in the front [they just tip the grass over], sharpen the blades real sharp, and raise the rear UP so the grass shoots out the back,
 
I own a Bush Hog 287 (7') that I use for rotational pasture clipping and general clearing. I use "lift" blades that I put a rather fine edge on, annually. I run the machine at rated 540 PTO speed with a ground speed of not more than 3.4MPH. My blade rotation is counterclockwise and as such, I cut left to right. The lift blades then cut against the left side wheel track/down grass.. lifting and cutting it clean. My wheel track is adjusted to be a little over 7'..outside rear tire dimensions. Running a 7' Hog with a 5' track is only asking for trouble. I adjust my "Hog" for a slight forward downward tilt..so as to allow the trash to clear better..as per the manual. And I don't run the machine on its runners..bad idea. My cut/cleared fields ..especially my clipped pastures look like I used a sickle mower. if I hit something with a blade, causing a nick/gouge that cannot be ground out satisfactorily .. I replace the blades. In my judgement, perhaps 90% of people using Bush Hog/rotary mowers..don't know what they are doing and certainly don't maintain their machines. Read the manuals..but then my John Deere Dealer told me many years ago... "no one..no one.. reads manuals".
 

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