Deere 60 sputters

Samtn1

Member
I bought a JD 60 a while back. It has a very rough idle, sort of lopes and sputters. Under load it straightens right up and runs just like it should. I had it bored and put in new Alum pistons, did a valve job, put on new manifold, rebuilt carb, new plugs, points, wires, timing is correct. None of this has had any effect on the rough idle. I am out of ideas. Anybody have suggestions
 
Of course it lopes and sputters! Its a "Johnny Popper"! You want to go and ruin the very thing that gives it its charm?
 
How rebuilt was the carb? Soaking in a bowl of solvent and giving it a hiss with compressed air. That will miss two vital passages and six orifices.
Intake manifold condition? Condition of mating surface between intake manifold and head? Valve spring pressure ?
 

Yes, it could be in the Carb, but a throttle rod adjusted too short will make them "gallop" when idling.
An intake leak will kill an idle..

Ron.
 
The number series tractors with the 2 barrel carb normally have a very steady idle, not the lope and miss that my 60 has.

I replaced original carb with a rebuilt carb from a reputable dealer and changed out the manifold. All mating surfaces on carb/head/manifold are clean and flat. I have pretty much ruled out fuel system problems. I did all the stuff I listed on the first post. Nothing I have tried has had any effect. Have not checked valve spring pressure. Could it be in the governor or could the cam be worn?
 
A 60 has about the smoothest, easiest idle of any of the two bangers. Two things come to mind, worn distributor or something was overlooked in the carb, manifold area. When you find out what it is let us know. Jim
 
The number series tractors with the 2 barrel carb normally have a very steady idle, not the lope and miss that my 60 has.

I replaced original carb with a rebuilt carb from a reputable dealer and changed out the manifold. All mating surfaces on carb/head/manifold are clean and flat. I have pretty much ruled out fuel system problems. I did all the stuff I listed on the first post. Nothing I have tried has had any effect. Have not checked valve spring pressure. Could it be in the governor or could the cam be worn?
 
Thanks for your input. When I bought the tractor, I thought there
must be an air leak, but I have tried 2 different professionally
rebuilt carbs on it, swapped out the manifold, had valve job
done by automotive shop, checked all mating surfaces, installed
new gaskets. No change, so I started looking elsewhere. The
distributor is in good shape. I installed new cap, points, plugs,
condensor, and wires. In addition, the block was bored and new
pistons installed. No change.

I have tried all the obvious things. I am going to take the
governor apart next. Will let you know when I finally solve the
mystery
 
(reply to post at 08:05:04 05/25/14)

Who was the professional shop that rebuilt the carb? Somebody like Robert's carburetor?
If it was the local shop in town, I have my doubts. The duplex carb has some well hidden passages that 99% of carb re-builders will miss unless the passages/orifices are pointed out.
If going into the engine far enough to bore it. Did you pull the cam and followers for a re-grind? at their age and hours they have to be worn to some degree.
I was always baffled at how thousands can be sunk into a rebuild but a $100 cam re-grind gets missed ? :?:
A soft valve spring does occur on occasion.
 

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