2005 Arctic Cat 250 started running poorly so I parked it for a while til I had time, mabye 4 months. Planting time is here and I need it to pull a small trailer. Removed carb., disassemble and soaked overnight in the gallon can of carb cleaner. Blew out passages with compressed air and carb cleaner. Cleaned all jet orifices with torch tip tool, reassemble with a new mixture screw o-ring, float body o-ring and slide/diaphragm in the top. It will start but only at full throttle and then it just pop..pop..pop..pop just barely running. I have done this job before with good success but at a loss as to what is going on now. New plug, tried running without air filter, did not replace the gas but it smelled fine, adjust mix screw from 1/2 turn to over 2 turns out, no noticeable difference, good fuel flow to carb. Hep meh!! I'm too old to carry fertilizer!
- Thread starter jcsinga
- Start date
dr sportster
Well-known Member
Is there enough compression to blow air past your thumb when holding it over the spark plug hole almost as hard as you can.[ Poor mans compression gauge]
cole in mo.
Well-known Member
If it starts at full throttle, you have the slide in half off. One side has a narrow groove, that has to line up with the small pin in the top of the carb bore.
neverfear
Member
- Location
- South Central MN
Try draining the crankcase of excess fuel. If you had been having carb problems it may be accumulating causing an overly rich condition.
You may have to drop any skid plates to find the drain.
You may have to drop any skid plates to find the drain.
neverfear
Member
- Location
- South Central MN
Ooops, I assumed this was a 2 stroke engine. If it's 4 stroke please disregard.
The carb is still dirty.
I could tell you how to totally clean the carb but there are already a million pages on the net that would do a better job. So hit google and follow the tutorial and give that another go.... OR.... since you need this thing NOW, just buy a new carb. I will say though, if your mid range passages got plugged before and now you got the low, mid and high speed passages plugged, you may have a bunch of junk in the tank causing problems. Make sure you have a filter on the fuel tank and replace it if you do have one.
You can get cheap carbs on Ebay or Amazon. Measure the space needed for the mounting bolts and find a cheap carb replacment that will work OR.... wing it and file it to fit. Artic Cat seems to have expensive replacment carbs but if a Honda would fit, its only $20.
http://www.amazon.com/Carburetor-Ho...mp;refRID=1DYQD1BMAE2BEBKMBQBP#productDetails
I could tell you how to totally clean the carb but there are already a million pages on the net that would do a better job. So hit google and follow the tutorial and give that another go.... OR.... since you need this thing NOW, just buy a new carb. I will say though, if your mid range passages got plugged before and now you got the low, mid and high speed passages plugged, you may have a bunch of junk in the tank causing problems. Make sure you have a filter on the fuel tank and replace it if you do have one.
You can get cheap carbs on Ebay or Amazon. Measure the space needed for the mounting bolts and find a cheap carb replacment that will work OR.... wing it and file it to fit. Artic Cat seems to have expensive replacment carbs but if a Honda would fit, its only $20.
http://www.amazon.com/Carburetor-Ho...mp;refRID=1DYQD1BMAE2BEBKMBQBP#productDetails
I know anything is possible and I'm not saying I didnt miss something but this is twice I pulled the carb and cleaned it during this episode of trying to get it running again. Yep it has one of those see thru filters I put on the last time I done this job. I have good flow to carb.
The crack will most likely be near the base and very hard to find. I once bought a suzuki 250 for dirt cheep that would start and run good cold then when it warmed up it sounded like junk, found the boot with a hair line crack when I changed it out it worked like a champ for many years. I still have the bike and use it sometimes
Steve@Advance
Well-known Member
First, I would try to determine if it is a fuel problem or something else.
What is the exhaust doing? Black smoke? Too rich.
Strong smell of unburned gas? No ignition.
Little smell? Too lean.
If it will only run at full throttle, you should be able to look into the carb and see fuel being drawn up out of the main jet. If you see fuel going into the intake and the engine is still not responding, it's probably something else.
If no fuel is visible, give it a shot of gas with an oil squirt can, it should instantly rev up. If it does rev, it's not getting fuel through the carb. If it dies, it's getting fuel, maybe too much.
If it turns out not to be fuel, might look at the ignition system. Disconnect the kill wire, look for damaged wiring, especially around the flywheel, around any moving areas like the handle bars, suspension areas, etc. You should be able to pull the plug wire slightly away from the plug and see or hear the spark, determine if it's a consistent spark or intermittent coinciding with the "pop-pop" running.
Other possibilities could be broken valve spring, sticking valve, or tight valve adjustment.
What is the exhaust doing? Black smoke? Too rich.
Strong smell of unburned gas? No ignition.
Little smell? Too lean.
If it will only run at full throttle, you should be able to look into the carb and see fuel being drawn up out of the main jet. If you see fuel going into the intake and the engine is still not responding, it's probably something else.
If no fuel is visible, give it a shot of gas with an oil squirt can, it should instantly rev up. If it does rev, it's not getting fuel through the carb. If it dies, it's getting fuel, maybe too much.
If it turns out not to be fuel, might look at the ignition system. Disconnect the kill wire, look for damaged wiring, especially around the flywheel, around any moving areas like the handle bars, suspension areas, etc. You should be able to pull the plug wire slightly away from the plug and see or hear the spark, determine if it's a consistent spark or intermittent coinciding with the "pop-pop" running.
Other possibilities could be broken valve spring, sticking valve, or tight valve adjustment.
My Polaris started acting up kind of like that, messed around with it for about a week, never could get it to run right, gave up and carried it to the shop. They called me about an hour and said your four wheeler is ready, asked them what was wrong with it, said they drained the diesel out of it and washed out the tank with fresh gas and it ran perfect.
Donald Lehman
Well-known Member
Find the test specs for the trigger coil, primary coil, and ignition coils and test them. If they all check out try another CD box.
After what you have said, it sounds like and electrical problem. One other possiblitiy. How long has it been since the valves were adjusted? Check your cam chain timing also. it's not very common, but I've seen worn cam chains jump a tooth.
After what you have said, it sounds like and electrical problem. One other possiblitiy. How long has it been since the valves were adjusted? Check your cam chain timing also. it's not very common, but I've seen worn cam chains jump a tooth.
Billy Shafer
Well-known Member
Had a guy bring me a Mule with a Kawasaki. Lost power running rough. Found muffler clogged up. Might be something to look at
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