JD 494 planter

Does anyone still plant with a 494? I have an opportunity to get one (for free) and am wondering if it will be worth my time. I will have to narrow it up to 30" Should i try it or go with something newer?
 
Jake,

Check the seed "cans" for wear on the bottom parts; by that age you can often see grooving in the parts where the plates and seed rotate.

I can help you with plate suggestions if need that info; make sure you know if the driver and driven sprockets are set for 16 or 24 cell plates.

If you are new to old planters you NEED an operator"s manual. If you can"t find one, see Mother Deere????

Someone else can advise about adjusting to 30" rows. I know about plates and associated parts, but not about "cutting and welding".

If seed metering parts are shot, I would pass on that planter or find someone who can help you with that.

LA in WI
 
They were good planters in their day.

For free its worth taking a chance on. I would check out the stuff as others mention before spending too much time or money on it, to see you don't get in too deep.

I'm thinking the narrowing will take some work, I forget now but I think a welder will come into play to get the wheels moved at least?

Paul
 
The manual comes with it. The current owner says he thinks there are instructions on how to go to 30" rows but he's not sure. He also mentioned that it may be a 495 instead of a 494 for what it's worth.
 
I'm thinking the 494A and 495 are simple to narrow up. The holes in the frame should be there and the wheels should be close enough together. If I remember right,the seed cans will be the issue. If they're the small ones you'll be alright. The large ones will hit the tires when it's narrowed up.
 
Well depends on the type of seed boxes, if just the straight sided that is the same size from top to bottom as where the plates fit you can do it but the flaired out type of box will hit the outside tire, They made a special short axle at one time, had one and foolishly got rid of it. Then the markers you have to cut the inner parts of the arm down both the U shaped channel and the 1/2" rod that pulls the marker. Other than you just unbolt the units and slide, holes are already there. I have one that was on 40"rows, one that had been on 30" rows and one bought for parts that was a better planter than I was usingbut it had different drive gears so I parted it, turns out it was a rare 1957 model and the 40" was a 1958 model and the 30" was a 1959 model and you can mostly determine year with a factory parts book, I replaced them with a 494A on 30" rows but even tho they are still here I haven't farmed for several years.
 
We had one, used it for years, then bought a new 7000. Then retired from farming, bought a used one for $75 to plant food plots with . It sets in the fencerow. I get it out about every third year. Shoot a little WD-40 on it, grease a few places, and plant some deer food plots. Always works.

Gene
 
No problem!! they were/are still good planters.I still plant 70-100 acres yearly with a #70(about the same age,'56-'66) unit planter(6 rows)...Same simple mechanisim in the boxes.Simple 'common' drive.
 
IIRC the 495 is the drill only version? vs hill drop or drill with the 494....IDR- had a 494 in "72 to start farming with- got the 7000 by "76. I remember the 494A had the better square tube mtg for fert openers, instead of the round pipe that the openers would turn on when hitting rocks. 7000 cured a lot of issues.
 
There are 2 brackets in 2 places to allow the wheels to be moved in or out. Four bolts for the bracket for each wheel.

I have trouble with mine skipping some. Have others had this problem? Have you found a way to solve that? I thought about trying to rig up something to put weights on the wheels.

I think, while the planter is in the ground, the whole weight of the planter is on the shoes, and not the wheels, then there is not enough weight on the wheels, in loose ground, so they sometimes skid/skip.
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You have a completely different newer model planter that the farme is nothing like the 494.
 

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