Prawn Farmer
Member
Finally got a chance to put my R39110 breakaway back together today. Any idea what the dealership charges? They earn their money whatever it is.
Those snap rings are something else. Ended up using a valve spring compressor to compress the piston down the barrel. Getting the ring out wasn't as bad as putting it back in -about an hour per ring! The the release levers E-clip was another challenge. Used a pair of needle nose vise-grips to compress the spring and tied them down with 20 lb mono-filament fishing line, installed the spring and E-clip then snipped the fishing line.
I greased and oiled everything up before and after putting the parts back in . . . butttt . . . is it normal for the the piston to be stiff and not spring back in when just overhauled or will it take hydraulic pressure to do that? The only way the piston will retract back into the barrel is with a tap from a brass hammer.
The instructions that came with the AR82570 kit only partly resemble my R39110 so I copies what I took out. Probably half of the o-rings and seals in the kit weren't needed.
I haven't put it back on the tractor yet, but I probably did get ahead of my self and installed the welch plugs in the block before making sure that the piston stiffness just needed the new seals broken in.
Those snap rings are something else. Ended up using a valve spring compressor to compress the piston down the barrel. Getting the ring out wasn't as bad as putting it back in -about an hour per ring! The the release levers E-clip was another challenge. Used a pair of needle nose vise-grips to compress the spring and tied them down with 20 lb mono-filament fishing line, installed the spring and E-clip then snipped the fishing line.
I greased and oiled everything up before and after putting the parts back in . . . butttt . . . is it normal for the the piston to be stiff and not spring back in when just overhauled or will it take hydraulic pressure to do that? The only way the piston will retract back into the barrel is with a tap from a brass hammer.
The instructions that came with the AR82570 kit only partly resemble my R39110 so I copies what I took out. Probably half of the o-rings and seals in the kit weren't needed.
I haven't put it back on the tractor yet, but I probably did get ahead of my self and installed the welch plugs in the block before making sure that the piston stiffness just needed the new seals broken in.