How do you know when a tractor is toooo much tractor?

More questions from a person who does not own a tractor but would like to get one.

I want to be able to do some plowing in these areas:
Garden
Pumpkin Patch
Horse Arena

I also want to possibly use:
A loader
Hay spike (pretty rarely)
Blade/Use a loader for snow on the driveway
Pull things
Possibly Rototill

These are tractors I have looked at since I have started looking
JD 2010
AC D-14
AC-WD
AC- B
AC-C
Farmall Cub
JD 650
JD 850
Farmall Super A
Kubota B8200
Case VAC
I have also looked at others but can't remember what

So how do you know when a tractor is to much tractor or not enough?

Sorry for all the questions but I just don't know a lot

When it don't fit in the space you need to use it.

I'll be honest with you. With that list of things you want to do,the 2010 Deere,the D14 and the WD are the only ones large enough to handle the bale spear. Biggest trouble with the two Allis models is the probable lack of a 3 point hitch for the spear or the rototiller. That goes for several of the other tractors on the list too.
The 2010 is probably the second worst tractor Deere ever made.
If it was me,honestly,I'd scrub that list and start over.

Get the JD 2010 then you will learn the fine art of
tractor repair.

Thank you for your help guys.

What tractors would you recommend me doing some research on??

Out of all of these things I probably won't use the spike at all. I just wanted to see and the rest would not be used a lot with the exception of a bucket pulling things
A loader
Hay spike (pretty rarely)
Blade/Use a loader for snow on the driveway
Pull things
Possibly Rototill

Any good tractors that aren't high maintenance

If it does not fit, or you can't afford fuel.

I would start looking at the compact tractor line. They will do a lot more than you think.

You WANT a 3pt. hitch so that eliminates most of
your list. You want an MF 100 or 200 series
tractor, except for an MF 130 or 235. All others
are good reliable tractors with parts readily
available. Ford tractors from the same era would be
a good choice too. They are other good choices but
before you buy anything, ask about the specific
model on here first. No sense buying the wrong
tractor with so many good used tractors available.

-Garden

-Pumpkin Patch

-Horse Arena

Don't need a lot of power for these, nimble and maneuverable
little thing seems better.



-I also want to possibly use:

-A loader

Those are so handy! You won't know how you got along
without. Again, nimble maneuverable tractor..... The compact
front wheel assist tractors are really nice with a loader. You
want live hydraulics for using a loader, some tractors older
than the 1960s don't have that.

Older loaders are one way acting, trip bucket. Means the
loader comes down by gravity, and you pull a rope to dump
the loader no real control of slowly dumping it - more work.
The newer loaders the hydraulics power the loader up, power
the loader down, and also tilt the bucket for dumping slowly.

-Hay spike (pretty rarely)

That takes a little bigger tractor. Bales come in different sizes,
a little 27 hp can handle some bales on the 3pt, need about
50hp to handle the biggest round bales. If you want to use the
loader to lift round bales high, that takes a heavier, more
powerful tractor. You don't want the tail wagging the dog!

-Blade/Use a loader for snow on the driveway

Heavier tractor with good ag tires can do more hard pulling,
always a balance with other uses. If you ever want to use a
snow blower, you need a real slow reverse gear and a live or
independent pto is pretty well necessary.

-Pull things

Bigger tractors can pull bigger things, smaller tractors fit in
smaller spots.

-Possibly Rototill

Now this needs a tractor with real slow forward gears, and a
live pto is a whole lot better to have.

Paul

I wouldn't consider a 2010 JD. We bought a new one
in 61. I would look at a newer 4X4 diesel with a
loader. Independent power take off. (the pto keeps
turning with the clutch pushed down) Doesn't apply
if you get a Hydro. And of course 3 point hitch. A
30 hp tractor will do everything except handle a
bale spear. unless your bales are 800 lbs or less.
My brother in law has a B7800 Kubota and it will
handle 800 lb bales.(4X5). Older tractors I would
consider is. Ford 600 and 800 series. and 2000 to
4000. Massey Ferguson 35 and up. IHC 374 574 etc.
John Deere 1020 2020. 950 and 1050. There are a
lot more. My neighbor sells Kubota's, they have
been hard on the used tractor market. You can buy
a new tractor with loader and hydro trans, for 250
a month. and they through in a trailer to haul it.
Vic

The neighbor has been using a 7040 Allis for his garden tractor the last few years. All he does with it.

Physically not fitting, or breaking the implements you intend to use are the only reason to stay small. In many Cases, a larger tractor is a better choice than an antique. A 50-80hp diesel tractor from the 70s will be much more usable than anything from the Mid 60s and earlier. Nimble, yet able to do real work to me= 3-4000 Fords, DB 990/5, Similar sized Masseys...

A compact is a toy, just the latest incarnation of a garden tractor for suburbanites who have moved to the country. They have no business anywhere near a round bale. Thoughts of plowing a garden with a compact gives me a headache.

Start with the closest couple of dealers, that"s important for parts / filters / service / seals /advice.

Have you ever seen a girl too pretty or with too much class? Or have you been too lucky or had a car that was too fast? Or have you ever had too much fun?

The D14 would not be a bad choice and probably the best buy for the money. It has a power shift that is almost indestructible and gives you live pto and hydraulics in the neutral position. Aftermarket 3pt hitches are readily available for them. Having said that, a D17 is a little bigger but about the same money and will be easier to find with power steering. It will also handle those bales better. Maintenance parts can be found at NAPA, The main thing is to find one that does not pop out of second or third gear....

I said it above but think it bears repeating.
Why don't you tell us how much you have to spend on a tractor.
Knowing if you have $2000 or $15000 makes all the difference in the world what tractor we would reccomend.

Have you ever seen a girl too pretty or with too much class?

That's a story for a whole different post. lol

you are going to want a wide front end for the loader. you are going to want something around 50 horse or bigger for handling big round bales. thats going to make you end up with more tractor than you need for plowing the garden, but thats ok. I always thought a little extra tractor is alot better than having situations where you don't have enough power. you just don't want something that is 2 or 3 times bigger than you need, that is over kill and you will be more apt to just tear your equipment up. like for instance, don't use a 100 horse tractor to do a 20 horse job.

My opinion is just worth a couple of cents but here it is:

If you go too big the tractor won't last. You are better off working a smaller tractor hard than a larger one easy. If you don't really work the big diesels they won't get hot enough to keep the condensation out of the engine. It won't work well ten years down the road.

I have big tractors for field cultivating. When I have to cut the barnyard I get out a Farmall A with a woods mower and work it to death. It runs like a top and will last for another 50 years as I am using it to its capacity and not putting it around.

Don't Rototill, it is an obsolete method of seed bed production, and takes a very slow ground speed on a tractor. Hydro drive, or other gearing (give that up and go with a Massy Ferguson 135)

Talk to guys in the local area about the dealers. Where I'm at MF isn't worth a darn cause it's a 90 plus mile drive to a decent dealer. And don't get me wrong, MF made some fine tractors, but my local AGCO dealer isn't worth snot. AC also supported by AGCO. So check out what the locals have to say about dealer support in your area.

The so called power shift (really just a power shift hi low) with neutral as a live PTO point IMO is a PITA. Try doing something that requires, stopping while leaving the PTO running, while try to work the hydraulics, steer and shift R to F or F to R. Sorry a real IPTO is worth a little more money.

To start with while a rotor tiller makes a fine seed bed it also creates hard pan as you are tilling. So not in your best interest.

I would look for a post 1960 tractor. I'd say if you intend to have a loader PS is a must. Utility type tractors like the Ford 2000/3000 will do most of what you are asking except the tiller (too fast most models) and the bale spear, too small. The MF tractors other mentioned will work too. There are some good JD, IH and Case ones out there too that fit the bill.

As far as pushing snow goes, how much? If you have never plowed snow you will learn that any repeated snowfalls will require planning on where to stack you piles to make sure you have room for follow accumulations. Plus any gravel/sand/dirt areas you are going to move some material where you don't really want it. Here is where I'll offer a suggestion. 2 tractors. One smaller on for the lighter work and a larger one that can not only move bales but can also run a snow blower. You don't have to worry about stacking snow with a blower. If set up right moves little if any loose materials.

It would help if we were to know what basic area you are in and what your top dollar amount is to spend. You may have a compact utility desire and an AC C budget.

Rick

(quoted from post at 21:05:58 03/16/14) Don't Rototill, it is an obsolete method of seed bed production, and takes a very slow ground speed on a tractor. Hydro drive, or other gearing (give that up and go with a Massy Ferguson 135)

Click to expand...

Slow and obsolete? Methinks that the good folks at Howard Rotavotor might disagree.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dSJQJ1PB28Q

As would this fella.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nCCTqol42Gs

Now as for the original question.

For everything that the OP wants to do, with the exception of the bale spike, one of the large Garden Tractors from the 70's-80's would do everything he needs to do.

He's not looking at farming 1000 acres, just small plots.

Something in the same class as the Bolens 1886, HT20, or HT23 would handle everything with ease.

(quoted from post at 19:43:48 03/16/14)

(quoted from post at 21:05:58 03/16/14) Don't Rototill, it is an obsolete method of seed bed production, and takes a very slow ground speed on a tractor. Hydro drive, or other gearing (give that up and go with a Massy Ferguson 135)

Click to expand...

Slow and obsolete? Methinks that the good folks at Howard Rotavotor might disagree.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dSJQJ1PB28Q

As would this fella.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nCCTqol42Gs

Now as for the original question.

For everything that the OP wants to do, with the exception of the bale spike, one of the large Garden Tractors from the 70's-80's would do everything he needs to do.

He's not looking at farming 1000 acres, just small plots.

Something in the same class as the Bolens 1886, HT20, or HT23 would handle everything with ease.

Click to expand...

Actually I don't often buy in to hype from manufactures, as you seem to have. Pay attention to actual studies done. Not only does a rototiller make hard pan it kills worms needed for a garden. Heck I tilled my garden for years. When I read the studies I got a plow and had to plow what's normally loose sandy loam soil 3 times to break through the hard pan. So out of 68 acres all in one piece only 1 acre, the one acre I tilled had hard pan.


Problem with the old garden tractors are parts. A lot of old GT parts are simply NLA. Sorry I don't like spending my time on CL or ebay searching for that one NLA part used that without it makes it yard art. Wife's uncle (retired heavy equipment mechanic) just sent his last Bolens to the crusher because critical tranny parts are NLA. He's had Bolens ever sense I've known him, over 40 years. Not as of last summer.

Like yers with the loader. Always thought those were cool.

Rick

Randy, I allus thot the 2010 was the WORST tractor that JD ever made. What's the wurst? 1010???

Get the JD850 or the Kubota B8200 or something similar. If they are 4x4 and have R1 tractor tires. If already have a loader then all the better !

I wouldn't buy a single one on your list.

You want something like a 135 Massey, B-275 IH etc.

Get:

3pt
diesel
diff lock
live PTO
multi range trans
power steering

I do nearly everything on your list with a WD. I can handle round bales with my front end loader, work the arena with a 3 point cultivator and an adapter, blade snow with a snap coupler blade, pull wagons and haul manure. I load a good dozen loads of manure a year with my trip loader. It's easy to spend someone elses money. If you know the limitations of what you have, you can work around nearly anything. So far the only thing I wish I had is a skid loader. I have a roto tiller on an old Allis garden tractor for the garden. Send me an e-mail if you want to know more. aaron_cummings(at)hotmail.com
AaronSEIA

(quoted from post at 18:00:47 03/16/14) Have you ever seen a girl too pretty or with too much class?

That's a story for a whole different post. lol

Click to expand...

I saw a girl who was both! Unfortunately, she saw me too.

Lots of good advice here so I can't add much but extra encouragement. I agree that you probably should stay away from the antiques and get something more modern (70's and 80's at the oldest). Garden tractors are nice (fun too) but too small to be very versatile and parts are getting harder to find. One exception might be the very big selling brands, like Cub Cadet, at least right now. Remember they aren't making them any more either. The fellow with the WD has the equipment he needs, but try to find a snap coupler blade in your area now. Stay with a standard 3 pt. hitch. We had a WD back on the farm and it was just a plowing (3x14" snap coupler) and towing tractor. For three point work we used a Fordson Dexta and a Commander 6000. My brother had a Ford 4000 and it was a very nice machine and would be very usable for you today. For loader work minimum is power steering, 4WD would be great too.

Personally I'm about to go with a modern SCUT/CUT to use for light loader work and to use to clean out our barn and load manure. Have a Ford 8N and 9N for bigger work like pulling a manure spreader, blading, running a 6' bush hog, etc. Would not expect to move round bales or mount a loader on either of the Ns. Don't have any plowing or tilling "real" farm work to do but I do have an old 2 btm. Dearborn plow to use if I needed it. You might be asking one tractor to do the role that two would be better at. Maybe an older one that doesn't get used as much and a more modern one that can handle the more day to day chores. Depends on your financial situation.

There are lots of what I would call mid size and compacts that might fit some of your needs out there for sale. Actually I'm a bit surprised by the size range of what they call "compact" these days. Good luck and let us know what you decide to do.

Ford 860 would be perfect.