OT --Sept Tank

Jiles · Mar 19, 2014

My son is building a garage next to his home. It will possibly have upstairs living quarters in the future, but a few years off.
I advised him to install a septic tank drain pipe to be used "someday".
I know there are many things to consider, such as tank location, but would like to know what the center line of the inlet pipe would be, in relation to the top cover.
In other words, if the tank had 12" of soil covering it, what would be the approximate depth of the inlet pipe?
I told him it would be much better to have the tank installed but money is tight.

D beatty · Mar 19, 2014

Why doesn't he try to tie into his present Sept tank system( would be cheaper)? Another thing does he have a yard big enough for two systems and can he stay far enough from his well? If his tank is like mine the inlet would be about another 8" down.

IH2444 · Mar 19, 2014

No set answer on that. Most places in the midwest, etc the inlet pipe must be 3 ft deep.

Google septic tank dimensions and see why I say no easy answer.

Stephen Newell · Mar 19, 2014

That dimension would vary from tank to tank. As long as you had the pipe just below the frost line you should be alright. Just make sure the topography where you come out runs downhill away from the building. You can adjust the level of the tank when ever comes.

W_B · Mar 19, 2014

Seems to me that a lot of that is governed by the local authorities, around us it's the county health department. You might want to consult them now before the pipe ends up on the wrong end of the building or they tell you you can't put in a septic tank at all. A tank supplier can tell you how deep it needs to be.

When I built my house the health department told us no aeration systems allowed, told me where the tank was to be set and where the leach field was to be installed and how deep those drain pipes were to be. They even decided I had to put the leach field above the tank, up a hill, and pump up to the field. That only cost an additional $3-4,000!

dpendzic · Mar 19, 2014

Probably better off just punching a hole thru the concrete when your ready to put the tank in
Generally the septic line does not have to be below frost line as it has to have a minimum pitch for flow.
I have 4 septic lines at 3 separate structures and none have froze up yet

Anonymous-0 · Mar 19, 2014

From what I read the other day the septic laws are due for a big change, thanks to the EPA. Probably best to not do anything till ready to install. Includes existing as well as new systems.

jh2056 · Mar 19, 2014

Licensed here in Ohio, too many things to explain on here. Find someone in your area. As far as inlet being below frost line is wrong. Tanks can be made with inlet and outlets at any height on tank, just be at the right height so baffles can work right.

Phil in Pa · Mar 19, 2014

Guess high - you can always elbow down, but not up.

David G · Mar 19, 2014

I would definitely put the piping in and get it out under the foundation. Your local authorities should be able to provide the specifics.

IH2444 · Mar 19, 2014

(quoted from post at 13:05:54 03/19/14) Probably better off just punching a hole thru the concrete when your ready to put the tank in
Generally the septic line does not have to be below frost line as it has to have a minimum pitch for flow.
I have 4 septic lines at 3 separate structures and none have froze up yet

Do not run your septic line outside a wall in the open air.
Wifes wacko uncle did it and now at 20 my sewer line freezes up.
Another project to do.

Eldon (WA) · Mar 19, 2014

(quoted from post at 09:39:29 03/19/14) My son is building a garage next to his home. It will possibly have upstairs living quarters in the future, but a few years off.
I advised him to install a septic tank drain pipe to be used "someday".
I know there are many things to consider, such as tank location, but would like to know what the center line of the inlet pipe would be, in relation to the top cover.
In other words, if the tank had 12" of soil covering it, what would be the approximate depth of the inlet pipe?
I told him it would be much better to have the tank installed but money is tight.

Out here we have to do a perc test and then pay an engineer $500+ to design ("copy") a system that was used in similar soils. The depth of your tank will be determined by the depth of the drain field...in my soils the bottom of the drain field can be no deeper than 24". I just worked my way backwards from there. Sh!t runs downhill, so if done right freezes should be no problem...plus it generates a little heat of its own. No way I could get my pipes below frost level....

FBH44 · Mar 19, 2014

As you plan the depth, always make sure you plan to have the pump-out ports accessible. You"ll get the thing pumped every couple years or so. The pump-out ports can be located down inside a round manhole cover or the like.
Don"t bury the tank inaccessible.

Pops1532 · Mar 19, 2014

There is no standard answer. You may or may not even be able to use a standard septic tank. Your perc test and state regulations will determine what system you have to use, and the depth, type of fill, etc.
In IL the state health department sets the standards and does the inspections. Some municipalities have even more stringent rules than the state. I know of one that requires a garage floor drain to have it's own separate system, so what you describe would need two complete septic systems in that jurisdiction.
You need to talk to your city or county building department before you do anything.

dpendzic · Mar 19, 2014

Got to agree 100% with that. I have had vertical drain lines in a wall freeze up from a slow drip in supper cold weather!-you need a little protection or substantial water flow

johndeerefan · Mar 19, 2014

If my memory is correct, the drain pipe will be 1/4" drop to 1' horizontal to set the slope. Anything steeper and the water outruns the solids. It's either 1/4" or 1/8", I can't remember exactly.

Sparktrician · Mar 19, 2014

A plumber friend told me 1/8" per foot drop is good. A 1/4" nut taped to a 2' level will achieve this while your run the pipe in the ditch....

ohiojim · Mar 19, 2014

I installed them for years but can't remember the numbers,..get ahold of hupp/stiverson in Zanesville ohio and they can give you the demensions you want, or your local septic builder,..it's probably gonna be in the 24" inch range to bottom of inlet from the top of the ground if you're a foot deep

Vito · Mar 19, 2014

If the change will make the systems more expensive now is the time to do it.

Vito

VADAVE · Mar 19, 2014

Johndeerefan is right. Sometimes you get away with 1/8" drop per 1' but you'll get past the inspector very quickly with 1/4" per 1'. I plumbed my new house and the inspector just looked at it and in one place, that I thought was a little flat, put a torpedo level on it said "Yup that's good" and signed off.

504 · Mar 19, 2014

The county will not let me add another septic tank on my property unless I divide the property on paper(deed myself off 3ac.).

Stephen Newell · Mar 19, 2014

If the drain can be at any height, how do you explain it to someone that their drain is froze solid and they have to stop running water until warm weather.

1130Leo · Mar 19, 2014

it really depends upon what your real intention is,
it is possible that it could be plumbed directly
into the existing tank, depending on size,
fixtures, etc... Or, in other cases depending on
where you are what they do not know won't hurt
them...

JDemaris · Mar 19, 2014

Doesn't look like anyone answered what you actually
asked. I just put in a 750 gallon tank. Top of
tank - to the center of the 4" inlet pipe is 26.5".
So if put 12" of dirt on top of the tank- the inlet
centerline will be 38.5" below ground.

dpendzic · Mar 19, 2014

---could be a blockage, could be insufficient slope, could be septic tank full and its backing up

JOB · Mar 19, 2014

It would most likely be safe to rough in the line
leaving the garage one foot below the floor. That
would give you enough depth to cover your tank and
have your drain field at the maximum depth so it
will not freeze.

Don't know where you live but in MN. They want
drain fields shallow. There are a lot of frozen up
fields this year. So I would install the field at
the maximum depth possible. The tank should be
shallow so it can be pumped easily. You can
insulate the pipe from the garage to the tank to
keep it from freezing.
Or as another said You could connect it to your
existing tank, if location elevation and
everything else works. That is not legal though
because your existing tank is sized for how many
bedrooms your house has, If it was in MN. And as
was said if they don't know it won't hurt them.
And if they don't find out it won't hurt you.

D beatty · Mar 19, 2014

I think there is getting to be to much red tape to do any thing today. I put mine in 34 years ago and also put in grease trap which all the sinks and clothes washer go through. Only sewage goes through septic tank. We put in 1,000 gallon tank and had it pumped for the first time 4 years ago.

Jiles · Mar 19, 2014

(quoted from post at 01:10:49 03/20/14) Doesn't look like anyone answered what you actually
asked. I just put in a 750 gallon tank. Top of
tank - to the center of the 4" inlet pipe is 26.5".
So if put 12" of dirt on top of the tank- the inlet
centerline will be 38.5" below ground.

[b:3fcd896291]Thanks-jdmaris[/b:3fcd896291], you answered my question, although most of the replies were interesting and helpful.

showcrop · Mar 19, 2014

(quoted from post at 17:10:49 03/19/14) Doesn't look like anyone answered what you actually
asked. I just put in a 750 gallon tank. Top of
tank - to the center of the 4" inlet pipe is 26.5".
So if put 12" of dirt on top of the tank- the inlet
centerline will be 38.5" below ground.

JD, I couldn't believe it as I was reading down through all these answers. A lot of good information, some not so good, but not a single answer to the question until I got to yours.

Bob · Mar 19, 2014

NOT sure how things are where you are but even out here on the tundra in north central ND, the health dept. nazis have say of any septic system, unless installed under the cover of darkness and camouflaged.

MANY have tried to smuggle in a new or remolded system only to be visited by the authorities, whether by being reported, or someone looks at aerial photos, I don't know.

Bottom line is, unless you are sure there are no code requirements and you will not be inspected, it's probably a lot cheaper to ask up front what needs to be done in your local than re-building a condemned system to meet code.

Pops1532 · Mar 19, 2014

I replaced the line from my house to the tank last year. I didn't measure, but the top of the inlet is only about an inch from the bottom of the top of the tank. With a foot of fill that would put the center of the inlet around a foot and a half deep.

greygoat · Mar 20, 2014

Problem is: If, as some have suggested, you ASK
the authorities, "What's Code'? Then they know
or suspect,what you're going to do !

sllimec47 · Mar 20, 2014

(quoted from post at 09:39:29 03/19/14) My son is building a garage next to his home. It will possibly have upstairs living quarters in the future, but a few years off.
I advised him to install a septic tank drain pipe to be used "someday".
I know there are many things to consider, such as tank location, but would like to know what the center line of the inlet pipe would be, in relation to the top cover.
In other words, if the tank had 12" of soil covering it, what would be the approximate depth of the inlet pipe?
I told him it would be much better to have the tank installed but money is tight.

Here in the northeast, most tanks the inlet invert is about one foot below cover. Don't concern yourself with frost. Pitch in the line from the building to the tank is very important. 2% is the best. Any steeper the water will out run the solids, paper etc. leaving a potential for blockage/ freezing. As long as the pitch is right the water should be in the pipe long enough to freeze. What are your plans after the tank for a leeching field?

OT --Sept Tank

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